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Question about stitching seams

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  • Melina York
    Hi, I was wondering what kind of technique would be used to stitch the seams of clothing from 10th -11th C Kiev. I am planning on doing a piece entirely by
    Message 1 of 9 , Aug 3, 2001
      Hi,

      I was wondering what kind of technique would be used to stitch the seams of
      clothing from 10th -11th C Kiev. I am planning on doing a piece entirely
      by hand, and want to make sure that I do the seams right.

      Thanks,
      Xristina
    • Diane Sawyer
      ... From: Melina York ... I found this article highly useful. http://www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html I started to
      Message 2 of 9 , Aug 3, 2001
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: "Melina York" <myork2@...>


        > Hi,
        >
        > I was wondering what kind of technique would be used to stitch the seams of
        > clothing from 10th -11th C Kiev. I am planning on doing a piece entirely
        > by hand, and want to make sure that I do the seams right.
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Xristina

        I found this article highly useful.
        http://www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html

        I started to make a rubahka by hand about a year ago, using backstitch on the
        seams. I screwed up the placement of the gores and set it aside to redo
        later, and this year realized that I needed to cannibalize it to use the
        fabric for something else. I started to rip the seams, but the backstitching
        was way too sturdy... it would have taken me forever. So I ended up cutting
        close to the seam to get the fabric I needed, but it's good to know that my
        backstitching is that sturdy!

        What fabrics and threads are you planning on using?

        Tasha
      • Melina York
        Hi, ... Thanks Tasha, it s a great article. Its got enough info to definitely get started (and then some). ... I am using a 60/40% linen/cotton blend (found
        Message 3 of 9 , Aug 4, 2001
          Hi,

          >I found this article highly useful.
          >http://www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html

          Thanks Tasha, it's a great article. Its got enough info to definitely
          get started (and then some).


          >What fabrics and threads are you planning on using?

          I am using a 60/40% linen/cotton blend (found on sale for 1/2 price -
          bought the whole bolt and 2 other colours as well). It's a fine,
          lightwieght fabric that is extremely comfortable to wear. I already made a
          machine stitched shirt and wore it on a very hot/humid day. It was still
          nice to wear. I would like to try making one of pure linen, but finding
          some that fine, and at that price, is difficult at best.

          As to thread, what would be best to use (from an authentic point of
          view)? Linen or silk? Other? I don't really know much about this. I have
          hand stitched two other tunics before (a norman and a spanish one), but I
          wasn't worried about authentic seams and such. I did it because I could
          keep sewing even at work. Normally I use a machine for construction, but I
          want to have a more period piece.

          Also, what type of thread would be used for the embroidery on the shirt?

          Thanks,
          Xristina
        • Diane Sawyer
          {snip} ... {snip} ... Try http://www.fabrics-store.com/ -- good prices, wide variety of colors and weights, and excellent customer service. ... The reason I
          Message 4 of 9 , Aug 4, 2001
            {snip}
            >
            > >What fabrics and threads are you planning on using?
            >
            > I am using a 60/40% linen/cotton blend
            {snip}
            > I would like to try making one of pure linen, but finding
            > some that fine, and at that price, is difficult at best.

            Try http://www.fabrics-store.com/ -- good prices, wide variety of colors and
            weights, and excellent customer service.

            >
            > As to thread, what would be best to use (from an authentic point of
            > view)? Linen or silk? Other? I don't really know much about this. I have
            > hand stitched two other tunics before (a norman and a spanish one), but I
            > wasn't worried about authentic seams and such. I did it because I could
            > keep sewing even at work. Normally I use a machine for construction, but I
            > want to have a more period piece.

            The reason I asked is that people will often sew wool using poly-cotton
            thread, which eventually saaws right through the wool fibers. From an
            authenticity point of view, you're probably better off using linen thread.
            You can get a 260 yard spool of linen thread in off-white from Jas. Townsend &
            Son for $6 -- a little more expensive, but not as bad as I'd feared.
            http://www.jastown.com/bulk/th-325.htm

            >
            > Also, what type of thread would be used for the embroidery on the shirt?
            >
            > Thanks,
            > Xristina

            Probably silk, and that *does* get expensive... I just spent $42 for 11 full
            skeins and 3 half skeins of silk floss, and local needlework shops are hard to
            find. If you can find one that carries YLI silk floss, that's much less
            expensive, but not as widely carried. You could get away with using DMC
            cotton if expense is a concern. I would do the embroidery before assembling
            the shirt; makes it easier to put into a hoop.

            Also, be sure to wash the floss before starting; I just had some blue DMC run
            on me and mess up a piece I was planning on displaying. Surprised the heck
            out of me; I expected the reds to run, but not the blues. You can use a type
            of horse soap called Orvus, which is also used by textile conservationists
            because it is gentle and rinses away cleanly. I have not used it, but
            needleworkers rave over it. I read about one that got a cola stain out of
            some counted cross-stitch with Orvus... sounds good to me! You can get it at
            tack stores ($13 for a 7.5 lb jar, which will last you forever) or quilt
            stores ($6 for an 8oz bottle -- half the price for 1/8 the amount!).

            Have I bored you all yet?

            Tasha
            http://ursamajor.8m.com
          • Jenn Ridley
            On Sat, 4 Aug 2001 15:05:39 -0400, Diane Sawyer ... There s also Eterna Mini-twist. About 70 cents a 6yd skein. Colors to match all DMC
            Message 5 of 9 , Aug 4, 2001
              On Sat, 4 Aug 2001 15:05:39 -0400, "Diane Sawyer" <tasha@...>
              wrote:
              >> Also, what type of thread would be used for the embroidery on the shirt?
              >>
              >> Thanks,
              >> Xristina
              >
              >Probably silk, and that *does* get expensive... I just spent $42 for 11 full
              >skeins and 3 half skeins of silk floss, and local needlework shops are hard to
              >find. If you can find one that carries YLI silk floss, that's much less
              >expensive, but not as widely carried.

              There's also Eterna Mini-twist. About 70 cents a 6yd skein. Colors
              to match all DMC and Anchor colors. Available from some needlework
              shops...my not-so LNS doesn't carry it, but then, she doesn't carry
              *any* silk. Try www.eternasilk.com for a list of shops that carry it.

              I have a full set of the Eterna stranded silk, which is probably
              closer to the silk used in period for embroidery, but it's a little
              trickier to work with than the minitwist, and probably *not* the
              thread to start doing embroidery with.

              yes, it *looks* like the more expensive silk once embroidered. I'm
              doing a piece of German longstitch off of Master Wymarc's page, and if
              I didn't know which colors were the Eterna and which weren't, I
              wouldn't be able to tell -- the Madiera silk is a little thinner than
              the other silks, but it covers just fine once stitched. I'm using
              Splendor, Madiera, and Eterna stranded on this project....it's kind of
              a scrounge the stash for appropriate colors project.

              NAYY...

              jenn
              --
              Jenn Ridley
              jridley@...
            • Diane Sawyer
              {snip} ... Do you have to use a laying tool with it? I m planning a Chinese dragon for mundane display and sale, and I really want to get that glossy, shiny
              Message 6 of 9 , Aug 4, 2001
                {snip}
                >
                > There's also Eterna Mini-twist. About 70 cents a 6yd skein. Colors
                > to match all DMC and Anchor colors. Available from some needlework
                > shops...my not-so LNS doesn't carry it, but then, she doesn't carry
                > *any* silk. Try www.eternasilk.com for a list of shops that carry it.
                >
                > I have a full set of the Eterna stranded silk, which is probably
                > closer to the silk used in period for embroidery, but it's a little
                > trickier to work with than the minitwist, and probably *not* the
                > thread to start doing embroidery with.

                Do you have to use a laying tool with it? I'm planning a Chinese dragon for
                mundane display and sale, and I really want to get that glossy, shiny sheen.

                I shoulda waited and ordered the Eterna... Oh well. Lessons learned.

                {snip}
                >
                > NAYY...
                >
                > jenn
                > --
                > Jenn Ridley

                What's NAYY mean?

                Tasha
              • Jenn Ridley
                ... Depends. On 18 ct canvas, doing satin stitch over 6/7 threads, I do (of course, I m also using 4.5 strands (each strand is really two filaments)). Doing
                Message 7 of 9 , Aug 4, 2001
                  Tasha wrote:
                  >Do you have to use a laying tool with it? I'm planning a Chinese dragon for
                  >mundane display and sale, and I really want to get that glossy, shiny sheen.

                  Depends. On 18 ct canvas, doing satin stitch over 6/7 threads, I do
                  (of course, I'm also using 4.5 strands (each strand is really two
                  filaments)). Doing the German longstitch piece (32 ct linen, over 4
                  threads, using 2 strands), I lay it with my fingers or the needle if
                  it seems to be twisting. Doing XS with two strands on *any* count
                  fabric, I don't. YMMV

                  If you want the smooth shiny look, you probably will want to use a
                  laying tool.

                  >What's NAYY mean?
                  no affiliation, yadda, yadda. It's another one of those internet
                  acronyms. I first saw it on a Quiltropolis sewing list two-three
                  years ago.


                  jenn
                  --
                  Jenn Ridley
                  jridley@...
                • Diane Sawyer
                  ... for ... sheen. ... {snip} ... Most excellent, thank you! We now return you to your regularly scheduled Slavic discussions (unless someone wants to chime in
                  Message 8 of 9 , Aug 4, 2001
                    > Tasha wrote:
                    > >Do you have to use a laying tool with it? I'm planning a Chinese dragon
                    for
                    > >mundane display and sale, and I really want to get that glossy, shiny
                    sheen.
                    >
                    {snip}
                    >
                    > If you want the smooth shiny look, you probably will want to use a
                    > laying tool.
                    >
                    > jenn
                    > --
                    > Jenn Ridley

                    Most excellent, thank you!

                    We now return you to your regularly scheduled Slavic discussions (unless
                    someone wants to chime in with stuff on 13th century Russian embroidery, which
                    would be REALLY cool).

                    Tasha
                  • aislinncc
                    ... seams of ... entirely ... I know this is an old thread. Xristina, if you haven t finished your project yet, or started the seams, or just want info on what
                    Message 9 of 9 , Dec 26, 2001
                      --- In sig@y..., "Melina York" <myork2@h...> wrote:
                      > Hi,
                      >
                      > I was wondering what kind of technique would be used to stitch the
                      seams of
                      > clothing from 10th -11th C Kiev. I am planning on doing a piece
                      entirely
                      > by hand, and want to make sure that I do the seams right.
                      >
                      > Thanks,
                      > Xristina

                      I know this is an old thread. Xristina, if you haven't finished your
                      project yet, or started the seams, or just want info on what stitches
                      are used nowadays to finish seams, email me at
                      aislinncc@.... I am willing to make copies of pages in some
                      books I have and send them to you via snail mail. The books depict
                      seam-joining stitches for Ukrainian and Russian peasant blouses. They
                      remind me of macrame and I plan to use one of them to join the seams
                      of the blouse I am working on.

                      Nadezhda Petrovna Stoianova
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