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Garb questions

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  • Robert L. Parker
    Ok for all of you garb fanatics out there, I have a couple questions. This will be my first foray into sewing my own garb. I have had some decent stuff made
    Message 1 of 4 , Apr 1 1:35 AM
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      Ok for all of you garb fanatics out there, I have a couple questions.
      This will be my first foray into sewing my own garb. I have had some
      decent stuff made in the past by friends but feel that if I want it done
      right, I have to do it myself. Any help would be appreciated.
      1) when inserting gussets , do you make two for each side (for a coat,
      for example)?
      2) How would you add a back slit for riding that doesn't hang funny. I
      am planning on trying a rectangular pattern and the pics I've seen don't
      mention this.

      Thanks,
      Sergei
    • Diane S. Sawyer
      ... Well, what are you making? I can t imaging that a riding slit (you d likely want one in front, as well) would make it hang funny. I can tell you how to
      Message 2 of 4 , Apr 1 5:25 PM
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        --- "Robert L. Parker" <parkrobe@...> wrote:
        > Ok for all of you garb fanatics out there, I have a couple
        > questions.
        > This will be my first foray into sewing my own garb. I have had
        > some
        > decent stuff made in the past by friends but feel that if I want it
        > done
        > right, I have to do it myself. Any help would be appreciated.
        > 1) when inserting gussets , do you make two for each side (for a
        > coat,
        > for example)?
        > 2) How would you add a back slit for riding that doesn't hang
        > funny. I
        > am planning on trying a rectangular pattern and the pics I've seen
        > don't
        > mention this.
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Sergei

        Well, what are you making? I can't imaging that a riding slit (you'd
        likely want one in front, as well) would make it hang funny. I can
        tell you how to do a facing, if that's how you intend to finish it.
        I've made a couple of tunics and dels for riding (and am about to get
        started on some Chinese fabric armor for riding, too), and I've never
        had any problems like that.

        I LOVE rectangular construction. You can lay out the pattern with a
        yardstick and a water-based marker, and it goes together SO quickly.

        As for gussets, you can do them in two pieces, as it makes assembly
        much easier. You sew a triangle to the either side of the sleeve at
        the shoulder with the hypoteneuse towards the cuff, sew the sleeve to
        the shoulder, then sew the underarm seam. I understand that one
        piece is more period, but I haven't tried it yet. I work stuff out
        in my head for weeks before I try it, so I figure I'd just sew on
        side of the square to one side of the sleeve at the shoulder, sew the
        sleeve to the shoulder, and then sew the underarm seam as usual. I
        figure it might get a little more complex to sew the seam, but I'm
        not erribly worried about it. That's what seam rippers are for.
        :-) I need to make at least one new rubahka between now and Pennsic,
        anyway, and I'll try it then.

        Tasha

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      • landolf@deseretmail.com
        Sergei, I recently made a fighting tunic from a rectangular pattern. It s fully lined and reversible, and has a standup collar and dog paws. I used square
        Message 3 of 4 , Apr 3 10:49 AM
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          Sergei,
          I recently made a fighting tunic from a rectangular pattern. It's
          fully lined and reversible, and has a standup collar and dog paws. I
          used square gussets(one square gusset per side). I think the square
          gussets give more strength as the fabric bias is the direction that
          takes the strain. I also slit the back for riding and sides, too.
          When are you going to be in Utah next? I probably won't be doing
          much SCA-wise for a few months, since I broke my shoulder blade in a
          motorcycle accident, but if you plan to be to an event nearby I
          should be able to attend and I could talk to you about the tunic's
          construction. I need to talk to you about your helmet, as well. I
          still owe you some pics, too.
          You know you can contact me off-list.
          Landolf

          --- In sig@y..., "Robert L. Parker" <parkrobe@i...> wrote:
          > Ok for all of you garb fanatics out there, I have a couple
          questions.
          > This will be my first foray into sewing my own garb. I have had
          some
          > decent stuff made in the past by friends but feel that if I want it
          done
          > right, I have to do it myself. Any help would be appreciated.
          > 1) when inserting gussets , do you make two for each side (for a
          coat,
          > for example)?
          > 2) How would you add a back slit for riding that doesn't hang
          funny. I
          > am planning on trying a rectangular pattern and the pics I've seen
          don't
          > mention this.
          >
          > Thanks,
          > Sergei
        • deonisei syn Ralo
          I ve been doing some research in relation to clothes worn by men in Novgorod/anywhere in what is now Russia and am really having a rough go at it. Most of the
          Message 4 of 4 , Jan 10, 2003
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            I've been doing some research in relation to clothes worn by men in Novgorod/anywhere in what is now Russia and am really having a rough go at it. Most of the links that I've found are broken and the cached pages on google lack images, if I'm even that lucky to find something (I've checked and have used the links from the slovo site, and some of those are down as well, Mordak's garbpack for example). I have tried to make use of what I have found. I have made a shirt (a Rubakha) and am happy with its look, I have a supper baggy pair of pants which I bind up my calfs with leg wraps and I wear a pair of leather pull-on shoes that feel comfortable but obviously arn't period (rubber soles). I also wear a belt with a ring buckle. I know this is a pretty messed up getup (its average sca though :-) My shirt is my honest attempt at doing it right and I'm trying to build on that success. I know my pants are probably wrong, but I'm not sure what culture I can draw upon for a pair p
            ants worn by a common man in Novgorod (say 14th/15th century--and is a Rubakha period for this erea and era?). I've been researching belts and found one on the Red Kaganate site, I think it should work. Anyways this is what I have planned for my garb and I'm looking for a critique/suggestions for improving the look.

            14th or 15th century
            Dark blue almost black caftan (too close to widows colors?) I have the cloth and thought I could make use of it.

            White Rubakha with red cloth trim

            white undershirt, some embrodery using the resource link from the slovo site

            Less baggy straight legged pants (using PJ bottoms patern from Jo-Anns) Better suggestoins, Please!?!

            Heavy duck cloth (red) round close fitting fur trimed hat

            dark grey wool leg bindings (was this still done in the 1300s and 1400s?)

            A solid dark red tablet woven belt with a simple period looking buckle (for now until I get the leather to make one like the one I found on the red kaganate site).

            Is there anything that I'm forgetting? What sort of things can I add to accessorize/enhance my look?

            Would this garb better fit a latter period persona?

            And what can be said about the accuracy of the name that I've chosen: Kuian Deonisei syn Ralo?

            Thank you in advance for your help and your input. I hope this isn't too much to ask. I have spent a lot of time on this and I am trying to check for accuracy before I go public with it.

            Thanks again,
            Dennis.
            ---
            If Dr. Suess wrote LOTR: 'Gandalf, Gandalf! Take the ring! I am too small to carry this thing!' 'I can not, will not hold the One. You have a slim chance, but I have none. I will not take it on a boat, I will not take it across a moat. I cannot take it under Moria, that's one thing I can't do for ya. I would not bring it into Mordor, I would not make it to the border.'"


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