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court garb *hassles*

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  • Phefner@xxx.xxx
    This is turning into the Court Garb Hassle from Hell. I m not coming to Pennsic, but I do have a good embroidery stitch book. Since this thing is supposed to
    Message 1 of 10 , Jul 30, 1999
      This is turning into the Court Garb Hassle from Hell. I'm not coming to
      Pennsic, but I do have a good embroidery stitch book. Since this thing is
      supposed to be done by December, I don't think I'll have enough time to learn
      the stitches and then put them on the garb by then. I'm practicing other
      things, dance and textile arts, so it's not like I have a lot of time to
      practice embroidery stitches. All of the ladies in my group wear Elizabethan
      and Italian Ren, which is fine for them but not for me. I don't like to wear
      stuff like that. My early SCA garb was Italian and French Ren, but that stuff
      has been consigned to the attic--it looks awful! I think I'm out of ideas!
      Maybe I'm too darn frustrated. I'm just not much of a seamstress. I've had
      really bad experiences with some of this stuff, especially the Italian Ren,
      because of rude "I-know-it-alls" saying terrible things about my work. One
      reason I got interested in Eastern European stuff in the first place was this
      feeling of "great---I don't have to do Italian Ren garb!" Yeah, it's a
      sourpussy attitude on my part. But those bad experiences really hurt, and I
      try not to think about them. Avoiding the whole thing is the easiest way for
      me to handle this.

      Dekuji!
      Isabelle
    • Diane S. Sawyer
      ... Oh dear. I wish I could come down and sit with you for a bit! I know I ll be corrected if I m wrong ( :-) ), but I seem to recall reading in Mordak s
      Message 2 of 10 , Jul 30, 1999
        --- Phefner@... wrote:
        > From: Phefner@...
        >
        > This is turning into the Court Garb Hassle from
        > Hell. I'm not coming to
        > Pennsic, but I do have a good embroidery stitch
        > book. Since this thing is
        > supposed to be done by December, I don't think I'll
        > have enough time to learn
        > the stitches and then put them on the garb by then.
        > I'm practicing other
        > things, dance and textile arts, so it's not like I
        > have a lot of time to
        > practice embroidery stitches. {snip}
        > Avoiding the whole
        > thing is the easiest way for
        > me to handle this.
        >
        > Dekuji!
        > Isabelle
        >

        Oh dear. I wish I could come down and sit with you
        for a bit!

        I know I'll be corrected if I'm wrong ( :-) ), but I
        seem to recall reading in Mordak's costuming packet
        that stamped and painted fabric is period. I recently
        got turned on to stamping fabric and it is funfunfun
        and EASY! Then you can dress it up even further with
        bead s and pearls and rocailles and any other period
        shiny-pretties your heart desires. Goodness knows
        that's what I have to do! I *like* embroidery and I
        don't have time! Let me know if you want to know how
        do fabric stamping (though I bet you already do).

        Tasha
        ===
        Lady Nastasiia Ivanova Medvedeva
        Milestone Pursuivant
        Shire of Quintavia
        East Kingdom
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      • LiudmilaV@xxx.xxx
        Isabelle, This is not really as scary as it sounds. Last November I had no idea how to sew at all, and now I have several decent sets of Russian garb. It is
        Message 3 of 10 , Jul 30, 1999
          Isabelle,

          This is not really as scary as it sounds. Last November I had no idea how to
          sew at all, and now I have several decent sets of Russian garb. It is
          possible to make it look great and appropriate without doing a lot of
          stitching, though you won't look like a proper boyarynia. Just have to
          settle for lower classes... I have a letnik that was a pain to make, but not
          because I did lots of embroidery -- I just messed up the pattern. On a
          letnik, decoration comes from lower parts of the sleeves that are made of
          another, richer fabric. It can be embroidered and adorned with pearls, but
          it doesn't have to be as long as it is fancy.

          Though it is not clear whether sarafan is period or not, a sleeveless garment
          or one with false sleeves worn over rubacha appears to be ok. These would
          take wide trim down the front and on the bottom, not necessarily embroidered.
          However, to look fancy it is good to wear a proper headdress, adorned with
          gold and pearls. I have taught myself couching from Soraya's article in
          Slovo and books, and it is not hard to do at all. Couching was the most
          common way to secure perals and gold cording on fabric in period Russia, I
          believe.

          Please don't get despaired, if you could do Italian Ren you surely can do
          this. I actually want to make one of those fancy dresses, but right now they
          are beyond my sewing skills -- though no one can tell looking at me in garb.

          Liudmila
        • Jenn/Yana
          Someone needs to write a how-to article....(hint, hint) :) And yes, stamped fabric is period, at least for early Rus (pre-14th cen). Anyone know about later
          Message 4 of 10 , Jul 30, 1999
            Someone needs to write a how-to article....(hint, hint) :)

            And yes, stamped fabric is period, at least for early Rus' (pre-14th cen).
            Anyone know about later periods? Dak?

            Even if it isn't period for later centuries it is a good way to get the
            look of brocades that you can't find in fabric stores.


            >...stamped and painted fabric is period. I recently
            >got turned on to stamping fabric and it is funfunfun
            >and EASY! Then you can dress it up even further with
            >bead s and pearls and rocailles and any other period
            >shiny-pretties your heart desires. Goodness knows
            >that's what I have to do! I *like* embroidery and I
            >don't have time! Let me know if you want to know how
            >do fabric stamping (though I bet you already do).
            >
            >Tasha

            *************************************************************************
            Ilyana Barsova (Yana) jdmiller2@...
            http://www.sit.wisc.edu/~jdmiller2
          • Diane S. Sawyer
            ... As soon as I know for sure it s machine-wash resistant, I will! ... This is why I m doing early period garb. Comfy, simple, easy to make. ... I
            Message 5 of 10 , Jul 30, 1999
              --- Jenn/Yana <jdmiller2@...> wrote:
              > From: Jenn/Yana <jdmiller2@...>
              >
              > Someone needs to write a how-to article....(hint,
              > hint) :)
              >

              <giggle> As soon as I know for sure it's machine-wash
              resistant, I will!

              > And yes, stamped fabric is period, at least for
              > early Rus' (pre-14th cen).
              > Anyone know about later periods? Dak?

              This is why I'm doing early period garb. Comfy,
              simple, easy to make.

              >
              > Even if it isn't period for later centuries it is a
              > good way to get the
              > look of brocades that you can't find in fabric
              > stores.
              >

              I just did it as hem trim and around necklines. The
              wall stamps sold in the stencilling section of your
              local craft store work great, as do the acrylic paints
              sold in the same aisle. I'm finishing hems on Iain's
              garb tonight, and then I'm pitching the tunic in the
              dryer to heat-set the paint -- I'll try to get pics
              taken and posted when the garb is finished, for those
              of you who won't see us at Pennsic!

              Tasha
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            • Phefner@xxx.xxx
              Oh, gosh, I went overboard on that post.....I m just not in a very good mood right now. Sorry about that! It happens. That Italian Ren pattern I used has a
              Message 6 of 10 , Jul 30, 1999
                Oh, gosh, I went overboard on that post.....I'm just not in a very good mood
                right now. Sorry about that! It happens. That Italian Ren pattern I used has
                a bad rep; heck, even my friends who make Italian Ren really hate it! It
                screws up the fit big time. I do prefer other kinds of garb for aesthetic
                reasons, and I do prefer to be able to lace up my garb myself instead of
                having to have someone else help me with three lace-ups. I've had to help
                them lace up!! :-) I happen to like Middle Eastern garb, too. (I do Middle
                Eastern dance) Anyway, please tell me more about stamping! It sounds great! I
                love sewing on pearls and all sorts of beads--hey, no problem there!! :-) I
                was thinking about putting a little red "stuff" on the rubakha, which I'm
                planning on making out of linen. Can I stamp a red design onto that? I wasn't
                thinking about a really fancy red design, just a red one! I was going to make
                a kind of sarafan, just an A - dress with a little gold couching on it. I
                want it to be red, but I don't know what's going to be in the fabric store. I
                don't know what kind of fabric to use. It will be December but I don't want
                to overkill in the heavy fabrics department. I wouldn't want to use a
                combination of heavy linen (if that's what I end up with) and something like
                velveteen. Now to find the right kind of gold cord and the right kind of
                couching thread. I've never done this, so I don't know what to use.
                Questions, questions......

                Dekuji!
                Isabelle
              • Diane S. Sawyer
                ... *comfort, comfort* It sure does! No harm done! ... Okay, but bear in mind, I haven t actually tried washing the garments. Standard painting warnings apply
                Message 7 of 10 , Jul 30, 1999
                  --- Phefner@... wrote:
                  > From: Phefner@...
                  >
                  > Oh, gosh, I went overboard on that post.....I'm just
                  > not in a very good mood
                  > right now. Sorry about that! It happens.

                  *comfort, comfort* It sure does! No harm done!


                  > Anyway, please tell me more about
                  > stamping! It sounds great! I
                  > love sewing on pearls and all sorts of beads--hey,
                  > no problem there!!

                  Okay, but bear in mind, I haven't actually tried
                  washing the garments.

                  Standard painting warnings apply (put down paper; put
                  the paint on an expendable plate, etc).

                  I use foam stamps from the stencilling section of the
                  craft store (closed cell works better than open cell;
                  it takes more paint to load open-cell foam stamps).
                  They have all sorts of designs. For paint, I used
                  Delta Ceramcoat Acrylic paint with their Textile
                  Medium (1:2 ratio of textile medium to paint). Use a
                  roller or sponge to load the stamp, because if you
                  plop it down in the paint, it gets goopy and
                  correspondingly messy on the fabric. I also smooth
                  the paint on the stamp with a bit of foam. Test the
                  stamp on a bit of scrap fabric from the garment you
                  will be stamping. I also recommend stamping before
                  assembly; it's easier to handle in limited space.
                  Make sure you wipe excess off the edges of the stamps,
                  else you'll get an unwanted outline on the fabric. It
                  happened to me, which is why Iain's tunic has outlined
                  designs on the neck facing (luckily, it does look
                  pretty spiffy).

                  The Delta Ceramcoat Gleams line in Gold and Silver are
                  really really nice on dark fabrics. Iain's blue and
                  green tunics are stamped in gold, and my black one is
                  stamped in silver.

                  If anyone has any other questions, let me know!

                  :-) I
                  > was thinking about putting a little red "stuff" on
                  > the rubakha, which I'm
                  > planning on making out of linen. Can I stamp a red
                  > design onto that? I wasn't
                  > thinking about a really fancy red design, just a red
                  > one!

                  Try the stamp on scrap fabric first; linen has a
                  pronounced weave and it may look a little spotty. You
                  might want to paint over the stamp, or maybe it'll
                  look good that way. I'm also thinking about
                  over-stamping red with gold (just had the idea this
                  very second!).

                  A gentleman of my aquaintance in Carolingia has a
                  lovely white felt caftan with red felt applique. I
                  *think* it's hand-stitched, but I didn't get that
                  close a look when I saw him wear it. Now that I know
                  him a little better, next time he wears it, I'm going
                  to ask to examine it closer!

                  I was going to make
                  > a kind of sarafan, just an A - dress with a little
                  > gold couching on it. I
                  > want it to be red, but I don't know what's going to
                  > be in the fabric store. I
                  > don't know what kind of fabric to use. It will be
                  > December but I don't want
                  > to overkill in the heavy fabrics department. I
                  > wouldn't want to use a
                  > combination of heavy linen (if that's what I end up
                  > with) and something like
                  > velveteen. Now to find the right kind of gold cord
                  > and the right kind of
                  > couching thread. I've never done this, so I don't
                  > know what to use.
                  > Questions, questions......

                  The winter fabrics should be coming out soon; ask at
                  the fabric stores what they will be getting in.
                  Pin-wale corduroy looks like velveteen from a
                  distance, you know. The right kind of cord depends on
                  the thickness you're going for. I have seen (and
                  purchased) gold lame thread in the jewelry/beading
                  section of the craft store that I will use (someday)
                  for couching and Or Nue work. As for thread, I would
                  use embroidery floss, but that's me. YMMV.

                  >
                  > Dekuji!
                  > Isabelle
                  >


                  Tasha
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                • LiudmilaV@xxx.xxx
                  In a message dated 7/30/99 1:18:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Phefner@aol.com writes:
                  Message 8 of 10 , Jul 30, 1999
                    In a message dated 7/30/99 1:18:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Phefner@...
                    writes:

                    << Now to find the right kind of gold cord and the right kind of
                    couching thread. I've never done this, so I don't know what to use. >>

                    Do you have Wal-Mart where you live? They have best kind of thin gold and
                    silver thread I could find in their craft section -- it doesn't separate or
                    snag. I also get some soft gold cord there for my couching, it has a nice
                    look and feel to it. For couching down pearls, I tend to use white nylon
                    beading thread, or that thin gold thread -- depending on the fabric and
                    setting. Oh, and I have never tried to wash any of it, nor do I intend to.
                    Scary.

                    Mila
                  • timbo@xxxxxx.xxx
                    Luidmila said: Do you have Wal-Mart where you live? They have best kind of thin gold and silver thread I could find in their craft section -- it doesn t
                    Message 9 of 10 , Aug 1, 1999
                      Luidmila said:
                      Do you have Wal-Mart where you live? They have best kind of thin gold and
                      silver thread I could find in their craft section -- it doesn't separate or
                      snag.

                      Scary indeed. I just suggested using Walmart to Kseniia Nikolaevna
                      for cheap velveteen in a month or so ($6 yd in jewel tone colors). I
                      love that place, especially as a source for cheap metal buttons.
                      'dak
                    • Phefner@xxx.xxx
                      Yes, we have Walmart here! I was having nightmarish thoughts about having to spend serious $$ on the fabric, which of course I d rather not do. I m interested
                      Message 10 of 10 , Aug 1, 1999
                        Yes, we have Walmart here! I was having nightmarish thoughts about having to
                        spend serious $$ on the fabric, which of course I'd rather not do. I'm
                        interested in the influence of the Turks and the Persians on Russian garb. I
                        did "generic SCA" garb--sort of a watered-down version of Italian Renaissance
                        (which is to say not very well researched and lacking in detail) so much in
                        my first five or six years in the SCA that I got really tired of it--I don't
                        like to do the same thing over and over, year after year. All of my garb
                        looked the same and it was getting boring. In fact, I wouldn't mind doing a
                        period Turkish or Persian outfit at all!! :-) That would be fun.

                        Dekuji!
                        Isabelle
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