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RE: [sig] Russian garb help (continued)

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  • L.M. Kies
    ... From : Rachel Sampsel[mailto:raelee@rachelsampsel.com] ... I m looking at something around 10th to 14th century (yes, I know that s insanely broad), formal
    Message 1 of 2 , Nov 30 3:31 PM
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      ------- Original Message -------
      From : Rachel Sampsel[mailto:raelee@...]

      I'm looking at something around 10th to 14th century (yes, I know that's
      insanely broad), formal court garb, lower noble/maybe well-off merchant

      10th-14th cent. might be insanely broad in most situations, but for Rus I think you can get away with it. The differences between Rus clothing in the 10th to 14th century are fairly subtle. Regional variations are more important.

      Is there an actual pattern out there or is it all pretty much “that
      picture looks like this, so let’s see if we can make the garb look that

      Yes, there are actual patterns - based on a few archeological fragments, and extrapolations from late period and traditional peasant costume, and the cut of clothing in neighboring cultures. Start with the rubakha pattern. I'm partial to the one on my webpage, of course.


      Are there preferred colors or garb patterns? What about restricted colors
      and patterns?

      There seem to be no "sumptuary laws" in Rus in early period. For more information about colors, fabrics and furs:


      If simple brocades were ok for everyone below the upper crust, what's a
      "simple" brocade? Are we talking about 1 color brocades with a basic
      pattern or multiple colors?

      I would say monochromotic brocades with a simple pattern. Most people, even the high nobility, wore mostly solids most of the time. Wood-block printed fabrics were also known.

      How much beading/pearling is too much? Is it okay to use a lot of
      bronze/goldtone beads? Are we talking about using beads to emphasize
      specific design points in the cloth or outlining whole patterns or what?

      How much beading are you planning to have time to do? Can I have some please? ;) Seriously, in early period, pearls seem to be most commonly used to highlight edges of ornaments, and outline or create embroidery motifs. I have yet to see much use of gold-tone beads in embroidery. Some are used in necklaces, but silver and glass are much more common.


      What about the kokoshnik? Was that only worn with a specific type of
      formal attire? Are there differing levels of formal attire for the rank
      in question?

      The pillbox style kokoshnik seems to be appropriate for all levels of society of early Rus whenever they would dress up a little, not just for the highest occasions. (Of course, the fancier the occasion, the fancier the hat.)


      As far as differing levels of formal attire for different ranks - that reaches its primary development in Muscovite period. In early Rus, things just weren't that fussy.

      Except perhaps for the royal family on the most important occasions, everyone wore variations on the same basic garments - rubakha, ponyova/zapona, svita, navershnik/letnik, shuba. And even the royal regalia, can be interpreted as versions of the above garments.


      Read my webpage - it will answer most of these questions. Unfortunately, the cliff notes version is item #5,9374097510 on my list. ;)

      K tvoim uslugam,


      Lisa M. Kies, MD aka Lady Sofya la Rus
      Mason City, IA aka Shire of Heraldshill, Calontir
      "Si no necare, sana."

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