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Re: [sig] Seam Finishes

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  • Lente
    well I found this http://heatherrosejones.com/archaeologicalsewing/index.html And in a odd connection I have just recieved this past weekend a book call Know
    Message 1 of 17 , May 9 9:05 AM
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      well I found this
      http://heatherrosejones.com/archaeologicalsewing/index.html

      And in a odd connection I have just recieved this past weekend a book call
      "Know your Viking" (viking sewing machine), and while skimming through it I
      have found a couple of things I might be using in the future, and I found
      out that i am missing a manual and have a title to ask for at the closest
      dealer (about 140 miles away). Anyway if you can get specialized feet for
      your machine the one my book talks about for the viking is a 5mm narrow
      hemmer foot to help do the second half of a lapped seam. Which I thought was
      definitely cool since that is one seam that has driven me nuts to do. Now
      lapped seams do show up as a line (or 2) of stitching on the outside as its
      the stitch used on jeans.

      the French seam is the other one I hate to do, cause of all the little bits
      wanting to stick out. I will admit I have a serger so most of the time that
      is my seam finisher. But when I want a better seam finish I will either make
      a lapped seam and hand sew it down(or my version of it) or a mock french
      seam. A mock french seam is basicially sewing the layers together with right
      sides to together with a 5/8" SA, then turning both raw edges into towards
      the seam and sewing a topstich along the outside edge, it does end up being
      a stiffer seam than a regular french seam though, here's a site showing it
      http://sewing.about.com/library/sewnews/qa/aaqa0601c.htm or here
      http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_machineseams.htm or here
      http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-toc.html along with a lot of
      others.

      Kathws

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Sfandra" <seonaid13@...>
      To: <sig@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 6:36 AM
      Subject: [sig] Seam Finishes


      > I've been french seaming my garments, which keeps the
      > raw edges nice and protected, but creates bulky seams
      > and I find myself triming bits that peek out with tiny
      > embroidery scissors.
      >
      > Does anyone have recommendations for seam finishes?
      > Particularly, what finishes are period? What finishes
      > work well?
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Sfandra
      > (plotting summer sewing for PENNSIC!)
      >
      >
      > ******************
      > Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
      > Kingdom of the East
      > ******************
      > Never 'pearl' your butt.
      >
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    • Ilijana Krakowska
      I believe that the trick to French seams is pressing the first stitching open, then trimming raw edges to one eighth inch before the second stitching. Ilijana
      Message 2 of 17 , May 9 12:54 PM
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        I believe that the trick to French seams is pressing the first stitching open, then trimming raw edges to one eighth inch before the second stitching.
        Ilijana

        Sfandra <seonaid13@...> wrote:
        I've been french seaming my garments, which keeps the
        raw edges nice and protected, but creates bulky seams
        and I find myself triming bits that peek out with tiny
        embroidery scissors.


        Ilijana Krakowska
        Per pale argent and gules, two cats sejant addorsed counterchanged.

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      • Lisa Santucci
        Something I came across in my research on Rus Rubakha s is that the initial seam is sewn with the traditional running stitch and then one side of the excess
        Message 3 of 17 , May 9 1:54 PM
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          Something I came across in my research on Rus Rubakha's is that the initial
          seam is sewn with the traditional running stitch and then one side of the
          excess fabric is trimmed down to 1/2 the width and the longer piece is then
          folded over and "flat felled" down to the garment. I makes for less bulky
          seams and extremely durable. the seam finishing doesn't take too much extra
          time but should be done by hand for best results.

          Hugs
          Cinara
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: "Sfandra" <seonaid13@...>
          To: <sig@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 5:36 AM
          Subject: [sig] Seam Finishes


          > I've been french seaming my garments, which keeps the
          > raw edges nice and protected, but creates bulky seams
          > and I find myself triming bits that peek out with tiny
          > embroidery scissors.
          >
          > Does anyone have recommendations for seam finishes?
          > Particularly, what finishes are period? What finishes
          > work well?
          >
          > Thanks,
          > Sfandra
          > (plotting summer sewing for PENNSIC!)
          >
          >
          > ******************
          > Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
          > Kingdom of the East
          > ******************
          > Never 'pearl' your butt.
          >
          > __________________________________________________
          > Do You Yahoo!?
          > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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          >
          >
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          >
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        • abbondanza
          Greetings, Use 1/4 seam allowance for the first pass through the sewing machine, trim to 1/8 . Pressing is important, open your garment so that it lies flat
          Message 4 of 17 , May 10 3:54 AM
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            Greetings,

            Use 1/4" seam allowance for the first pass through the sewing
            machine, trim to 1/8". Pressing is important, open your garment
            so that it lies flat and press the seam flush to one side of the
            garment (do not open the seam and press flat), then fold the
            other side over the seam and press this flat, pin it and make
            your second pass on the machine 1/4". At this point, iron the
            fabric so that the seam runs along one side of the garment, pin
            it on the right (out)side. Hand stitch the seam on the inside
            flat to the garment. What you will have is a beautifully
            finished seam, that will always lie flat when you are wearing
            the garment which will be easier to iron after laundering and
            will not require mending for _years_. I sew all of my linen
            gowns in this manner, it is well worth the effort, as it is
            done, once, per gown.

            In service,
            Antoinette de la Croix
            AEthelmearc



            > Sfandra <seonaid13@...> wrote:
            > I've been french seaming my garments, which keeps the
            > raw edges nice and protected, but creates bulky seams
            > and I find myself triming bits that peek out with tiny
            > embroidery scissors.
            >
            >
            > Ilijana Krakowska
            > Per pale argent and gules, two cats sejant addorsed
            > counterchanged.
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            > Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls
            > using Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >


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          • Lente
            that s what I did on my long wool coat, but I have found since that my wool is so thick (prewashed 3x s in hot) the seam allowances will not lay flat so now I
            Message 5 of 17 , May 10 8:10 AM
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              that's what I did on my long wool coat, but I have found since that my wool
              is so thick (prewashed 3x's in hot) the seam allowances will not lay flat so
              now I am going back and doing a herringbone (or catchstitch) on the inside
              down each side of the seam to keep the seam allowances flat. since I'm using
              a matching color in sewing thread its not showing on the outside, not
              certain it will show on the outside. I also used the same stich for the hem,
              keeps it all nice and flat so I don't catch the hem on stuff.

              Kathws

              Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:38 AM
              Subject: RE : Re: [sig] Seam Finishes


              > The majority of my tailoring is with coats, using heavy wool cloth
              > that is so felted that you need to inspect closely to see evidence of
              > the weave. If its the good stuff it does not need any sort of edge
              > finishing, (nor did they do so in period, at least with soldier's
              > coats, although I don't know one way or the other for rich men's
              > clothes - but in truth it does not need it. just needs to be pressed
              > flat.)
            • Sfandra
              Thanks for all the great advice. I think I was just frustrated, because I have a tendency towards heavy fabrics -- heavy linens, decorator cottons etc, -- and
              Message 6 of 17 , May 10 9:33 AM
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                Thanks for all the great advice. I think I was just
                frustrated, because I have a tendency towards heavy
                fabrics -- heavy linens, decorator cottons etc, -- and
                that leads to bulky seams!

                I'm going to try flat felling more, instead of french.
                And larger seam allowances too. :-)

                --Sfandra



                ******************
                Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
                Kingdom of the East
                ******************
                Never 'pearl' your butt.

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              • Sfandra
                Thanks for all the great advice. I think I was just frustrated, because I have a tendency towards heavy fabrics -- heavy linens, decorator cottons etc, -- and
                Message 7 of 17 , May 10 9:33 AM
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                  Thanks for all the great advice. I think I was just
                  frustrated, because I have a tendency towards heavy
                  fabrics -- heavy linens, decorator cottons etc, -- and
                  that leads to bulky seams!

                  I'm going to try flat felling more, instead of french.
                  And larger seam allowances too. :-)

                  --Sfandra



                  ******************
                  Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
                  Kingdom of the East
                  ******************
                  Never 'pearl' your butt.

                  __________________________________________________
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                • Rick Orli
                  Do you really take a heavy wool and boil it? what are you making, shoe soles? That happened at my house by accident last year when my size 44 sweater was
                  Message 8 of 17 , May 11 12:39 PM
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                    Do you really take a heavy wool and boil it? what are you making,
                    shoe soles? That happened at my house by accident last year when my
                    size 44 sweater was accidently washed in hot water, and came out size
                    4T. The thought that passed though my mind was, ah! so this is how
                    to get suitable material to make felt boots.

                    But, if the wool is more typically thick,and the construction press
                    is done right, the only time I have really had trouble is if a coat I
                    had loaned out was machine washed, treatment no wool coat deserves.
                    for that matter, wool coats should be very seldom washed, wool does
                    not absorb sweat and oils and aromatics like cotton, and if allowed
                    to air well will have just the right, er, quality, for the 16-17th
                    C.
                    -Rick

                    --- In sig@yahoogroups.com, "Lente" <lente@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > that's what I did on my long wool coat, but I have found since that
                    my wool
                    > is so thick (prewashed 3x's in hot) the seam allowances will not
                    lay flat so
                    > now I am going back and doing a herringbone (or catchstitch) on the
                    inside
                    > down each side of the seam to keep the seam allowances flat. since
                    I'm using
                    > a matching color in sewing thread its not showing on the outside,
                    not
                    > certain it will show on the outside. I also used the same stich for
                    the hem,
                    > keeps it all nice and flat so I don't catch the hem on stuff.
                    >
                    > Kathws
                    >
                    > Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:38 AM
                    > Subject: RE : Re: [sig] Seam Finishes
                    >
                    >
                    > > The majority of my tailoring is with coats, using heavy wool cloth
                    > > that is so felted that you need to inspect closely to see
                    evidence of
                    > > the weave. If its the good stuff it does not need any sort of
                    edge
                    > > finishing, (nor did they do so in period, at least with soldier's
                    > > coats, although I don't know one way or the other for rich men's
                    > > clothes - but in truth it does not need it. just needs to be
                    pressed
                    > > flat.)
                    >
                  • historian@reconstructinghistory.com
                    Actually if your seam allowances are so thick that they are not at all ravelly, you can trim the seeam allowances down as close to the seam as you can get
                    Message 9 of 17 , May 11 12:52 PM
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                      Actually if your seam allowances are so thick that they are not at all
                      ravelly, you can trim the seeam allowances down as close to the seam
                      as you can get without cutting the seam stitching. Many extant wool
                      garments made from thick textiles have barely any seam allowances at
                      all (1/8" and they stand straight up), and some are even butted
                      together instead of folded over into a seam.

                      The seam finish you're doing, Kathws, will certainly hold the seam
                      allowances open and flat, but there will still be bulk. If you don't
                      want that bulk, you can trim it without much fear of unravelling in
                      this case.

                      Kass
                      Reconstructing History
                      http://reconstructinghistory.com

                      Quoting Rick Orli <orlirva@...>:

                      > Do you really take a heavy wool and boil it? what are you making,
                      > shoe soles? That happened at my house by accident last year when my
                      > size 44 sweater was accidently washed in hot water, and came out size
                      >
                      > 4T. The thought that passed though my mind was, ah! so this is how
                      > to get suitable material to make felt boots.
                      >
                      > But, if the wool is more typically thick,and the construction press
                      > is done right, the only time I have really had trouble is if a coat I
                      >
                      > had loaned out was machine washed, treatment no wool coat deserves.
                      >
                      > for that matter, wool coats should be very seldom washed, wool does
                      > not absorb sweat and oils and aromatics like cotton, and if allowed
                      > to air well will have just the right, er, quality, for the 16-17th
                      > C.
                      > -Rick
                      >
                      > --- In sig@yahoogroups.com, "Lente" <lente@...> wrote:
                      >>
                      >> that's what I did on my long wool coat, but I have found since that
                      >
                      > my wool
                      >> is so thick (prewashed 3x's in hot) the seam allowances will not
                      > lay flat so
                      >> now I am going back and doing a herringbone (or catchstitch) on the
                      >
                      > inside
                      >> down each side of the seam to keep the seam allowances flat. since
                      > I'm using
                      >> a matching color in sewing thread its not showing on the outside,
                      > not
                      >> certain it will show on the outside. I also used the same stich for
                      >
                      > the hem,
                      >> keeps it all nice and flat so I don't catch the hem on stuff.
                      >>
                      >> Kathws
                      >>
                      >> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:38 AM
                      >> Subject: RE : Re: [sig] Seam Finishes
                      >>
                      >>
                      >> > The majority of my tailoring is with coats, using heavy wool
                      > cloth
                      >> > that is so felted that you need to inspect closely to see
                      > evidence of
                      >> > the weave. If its the good stuff it does not need any sort of
                      > edge
                      >> > finishing, (nor did they do so in period, at least with soldier's
                      >> > coats, although I don't know one way or the other for rich men's
                      >> > clothes - but in truth it does not need it. just needs to be
                      > pressed
                      >> > flat.)
                    • Tim Nalley
                      Most of the serious 14C people felt thier wool, most especially for their hose. The hoods are quite thick as are their winter wieght coate hardies, but not
                      Message 10 of 17 , May 11 1:06 PM
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                        Most of the serious 14C people felt thier wool, most
                        especially for their hose. The hoods are quite thick
                        as are their winter wieght coate hardies, but not
                        felted x4! They count on a third shrinkage on average.
                        'dok

                        --- Rick Orli <orlirva@...> wrote:

                        > Do you really take a heavy wool and boil it? what
                        > are you making,
                        > shoe soles? That happened at my house by accident
                        > last year when my
                        > size 44 sweater was accidently washed in hot water,
                        > and came out size
                        > 4T. The thought that passed though my mind was, ah!
                        > so this is how
                        > to get suitable material to make felt boots.
                        >
                        > But, if the wool is more typically thick,and the
                        > construction press
                        > is done right, the only time I have really had
                        > trouble is if a coat I
                        > had loaned out was machine washed, treatment no wool
                        > coat deserves.
                        > for that matter, wool coats should be very seldom
                        > washed, wool does
                        > not absorb sweat and oils and aromatics like
                        > cotton, and if allowed
                        > to air well will have just the right, er, quality,
                        > for the 16-17th
                        > C.
                        > -Rick
                        >
                        > --- In sig@yahoogroups.com, "Lente" <lente@...>
                        > wrote:
                        > >
                        > > that's what I did on my long wool coat, but I have
                        > found since that
                        > my wool
                        > > is so thick (prewashed 3x's in hot) the seam
                        > allowances will not
                        > lay flat so
                        > > now I am going back and doing a herringbone (or
                        > catchstitch) on the
                        > inside
                        > > down each side of the seam to keep the seam
                        > allowances flat. since
                        > I'm using
                        > > a matching color in sewing thread its not showing
                        > on the outside,
                        > not
                        > > certain it will show on the outside. I also used
                        > the same stich for
                        > the hem,
                        > > keeps it all nice and flat so I don't catch the
                        > hem on stuff.
                        > >
                        > > Kathws
                        > >
                        > > Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:38 AM
                        > > Subject: RE : Re: [sig] Seam Finishes
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > > The majority of my tailoring is with coats,
                        > using heavy wool cloth
                        > > > that is so felted that you need to inspect
                        > closely to see
                        > evidence of
                        > > > the weave. If its the good stuff it does not
                        > need any sort of
                        > edge
                        > > > finishing, (nor did they do so in period, at
                        > least with soldier's
                        > > > coats, although I don't know one way or the
                        > other for rich men's
                        > > > clothes - but in truth it does not need it. just
                        > needs to be
                        > pressed
                        > > > flat.)
                        > >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >


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                      • historian@reconstructinghistory.com
                        Tim, The 4X Rick experienced is because he shrunk a sweater (which is knit), not something woven, which won t shrink nearly as much. =) Rick, They aren t
                        Message 11 of 17 , May 11 1:11 PM
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                          Tim,

                          The 4X Rick experienced is because he shrunk a sweater (which is
                          knit), not something woven, which won't shrink nearly as much. =)

                          Rick,

                          They aren't boiling their wool as much as they are "shocking" it with
                          a hot wash and cold rinse in the washing machine. While this doesn't
                          exactly full the wool as it would have been fulled in the 14th
                          century, it thickens modern wool to the point where it more closely
                          resembles medieval wool and doesn't ravel, so you can leave your hems
                          unsewn and do the seam finishes as they were done in period without
                          fear of your clothing fraying.

                          Kass
                          Reconstructing History
                          http://reconstructinghistory.com

                          Quoting Tim Nalley <mordakus@...>:

                          > Most of the serious 14C people felt thier wool, most
                          > especially for their hose. The hoods are quite thick
                          > as are their winter wieght coate hardies, but not
                          > felted x4! They count on a third shrinkage on average.
                          > 'dok
                          >
                          > --- Rick Orli <orlirva@...> wrote:
                          >
                          >> Do you really take a heavy wool and boil it? what
                          >> are you making,
                          >> shoe soles? That happened at my house by accident
                          >> last year when my
                          >> size 44 sweater was accidently washed in hot water,
                          >> and came out size
                          >> 4T. The thought that passed though my mind was, ah!
                          >> so this is how
                          >> to get suitable material to make felt boots.
                          >>
                          >> But, if the wool is more typically thick,and the
                          >> construction press
                          >> is done right, the only time I have really had
                          >> trouble is if a coat I
                          >> had loaned out was machine washed, treatment no wool
                          >> coat deserves.
                          >> for that matter, wool coats should be very seldom
                          >> washed, wool does
                          >> not absorb sweat and oils and aromatics like
                          >> cotton, and if allowed
                          >> to air well will have just the right, er, quality,
                          >> for the 16-17th
                          >> C.
                          >> -Rick
                          >>
                          >> --- In sig@yahoogroups.com, "Lente" <lente@...>
                          >> wrote:
                          >> >
                          >> > that's what I did on my long wool coat, but I have
                          >> found since that
                          >> my wool
                          >> > is so thick (prewashed 3x's in hot) the seam
                          >> allowances will not
                          >> lay flat so
                          >> > now I am going back and doing a herringbone (or
                          >> catchstitch) on the
                          >> inside
                          >> > down each side of the seam to keep the seam
                          >> allowances flat. since
                          >> I'm using
                          >> > a matching color in sewing thread its not showing
                          >> on the outside,
                          >> not
                          >> > certain it will show on the outside. I also used
                          >> the same stich for
                          >> the hem,
                          >> > keeps it all nice and flat so I don't catch the
                          >> hem on stuff.
                          >> >
                          >> > Kathws
                          >> >
                          >> > Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:38 AM
                          >> > Subject: RE : Re: [sig] Seam Finishes
                          >> >
                          >> >
                          >> > > The majority of my tailoring is with coats,
                          >> using heavy wool cloth
                          >> > > that is so felted that you need to inspect
                          >> closely to see
                          >> evidence of
                          >> > > the weave. If its the good stuff it does not
                          >> need any sort of
                          >> edge
                          >> > > finishing, (nor did they do so in period, at
                          >> least with soldier's
                          >> > > coats, although I don't know one way or the
                          >> other for rich men's
                          >> > > clothes - but in truth it does not need it. just
                          >> needs to be
                          >> pressed
                          >> > > flat.)
                          >> >
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >
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                        • Lente
                          Okay I just saw this message. I started out with 100% wool that I bought at hancocks several years back, I think it was a plain weave (call it a jacket weight)
                          Message 12 of 17 , May 11 3:21 PM
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                            Okay I just saw this message. I started out with 100% wool that I bought at
                            hancocks several years back, I think it was a plain weave (call it a jacket
                            weight) that was 5 1/2 yds by 60" wide. And yes I meant to full the wool,
                            basically I washed it in the hottest water my washer does three times, I
                            didn't dry it between washes, just pulled it out of the washer to get the
                            twists out then put it right back in. After that I tossed it in the dryer
                            and dried the wool until dry, probably a couple of hours with lots of
                            checking to clean out the lint trap. After all that the wool ended up being
                            4 7/8 yds by 45" wide with ripply edges which did make me figure out a new
                            layout using the unshrunk selvage edges, I ended up putting all of them
                            along the back seam and one the shoulder seams of the sleeves. I then made
                            it into a full length coat since I don't like cloaks; it also works great as
                            an extra layer on the air mattress. Since it is so bulky if I need to wash
                            it I will probably do it the bathtub with cold water. I have had to get some
                            juice my kids spilled on it out once and when I looked closely at it the
                            juice had just set on the surface and dried all goey, so it really was more
                            of a rinse out in the shower, but it took a week of hanging to dry fully.

                            This isn't the first piece of wool I have washed. Some of the things I have
                            found out washing wool are these: Plain weave fulls the best, don't EVER do
                            a wool crepe unless your looking for a really dense peice that will have
                            shrunk a lot (2 1/2 yds by 60" down to 32" by 36"), a twill that I have
                            prewashed shrunk the smallest amount about 4 inches in the length and
                            nothing in the width, got a little fuzzy but that is about all. When you
                            have your garment made up from that point on if washing your wool garment in
                            a washing machine use the gentle/hand wash cycle in cold water only. Don't
                            be surprised if when your wool is dry clean if the dye changes, I had one
                            that changed from tan to grey, I understand the dry clean fabrics don't
                            alwasy have a washing safe dye used on them.

                            for felting boots from wool roving go check outthe renaissance tailor site,
                            she has a tutorial on making boots, making boots from wool yardage might
                            entail sewing them as lether boots are.

                            Kathws

                            ----- Original Message -----
                            From: "Rick Orli" <orlirva@...>
                            To: <sig@yahoogroups.com>
                            Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 1:39 PM
                            Subject: Re: [sig] Seam Finishes


                            Do you really take a heavy wool and boil it? what are you making,
                            shoe soles? That happened at my house by accident last year when my
                            size 44 sweater was accidently washed in hot water, and came out size
                            4T. The thought that passed though my mind was, ah! so this is how
                            to get suitable material to make felt boots.

                            But, if the wool is more typically thick,and the construction press
                            is done right, the only time I have really had trouble is if a coat I
                            had loaned out was machine washed, treatment no wool coat deserves.
                            for that matter, wool coats should be very seldom washed, wool does
                            not absorb sweat and oils and aromatics like cotton, and if allowed
                            to air well will have just the right, er, quality, for the 16-17th
                            C.
                            -Rick

                            --- In sig@yahoogroups.com, "Lente" <lente@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > that's what I did on my long wool coat, but I have found since that
                            my wool
                            > is so thick (prewashed 3x's in hot) the seam allowances will not
                            lay flat so
                            > now I am going back and doing a herringbone (or catchstitch) on the
                            inside
                            > down each side of the seam to keep the seam allowances flat. since
                            I'm using
                            > a matching color in sewing thread its not showing on the outside,
                            not
                            > certain it will show on the outside. I also used the same stich for
                            the hem,
                            > keeps it all nice and flat so I don't catch the hem on stuff.
                            >
                            > Kathws
                          • Tim Nalley
                            Hey, thanks for the tips! I have all this second hand as I m a dyed in the wool Russian but I had planed to fill in the shallow spots in my wardrobe with
                            Message 13 of 17 , May 12 7:39 AM
                            • 0 Attachment
                              Hey, thanks for the tips! I have all this second hand
                              as I'm a dyed in the wool Russian but I had planed to
                              fill in the shallow spots in my wardrobe with leather,
                              linen and wool this year! This will really help!
                              'dok

                              --- historian@... wrote:

                              > Tim,
                              >
                              > The 4X Rick experienced is because he shrunk a
                              > sweater (which is
                              > knit), not something woven, which won't shrink
                              > nearly as much. =)
                              >
                              > Rick,
                              >
                              > They aren't boiling their wool as much as they are
                              > "shocking" it with
                              > a hot wash and cold rinse in the washing machine.
                              > While this doesn't
                              > exactly full the wool as it would have been fulled
                              > in the 14th
                              > century, it thickens modern wool to the point where
                              > it more closely
                              > resembles medieval wool and doesn't ravel, so you
                              > can leave your hems
                              > unsewn and do the seam finishes as they were done in
                              > period without
                              > fear of your clothing fraying.
                              >
                              > Kass
                              > Reconstructing History
                              > http://reconstructinghistory.com
                              >
                              > Quoting Tim Nalley <mordakus@...>:
                              >
                              > > Most of the serious 14C people felt thier wool,
                              > most
                              > > especially for their hose. The hoods are quite
                              > thick
                              > > as are their winter wieght coate hardies, but not
                              > > felted x4! They count on a third shrinkage on
                              > average.
                              > > 'dok
                              > >
                              > > --- Rick Orli <orlirva@...> wrote:
                              > >
                              > >> Do you really take a heavy wool and boil it?
                              > what
                              > >> are you making,
                              > >> shoe soles? That happened at my house by
                              > accident
                              > >> last year when my
                              > >> size 44 sweater was accidently washed in hot
                              > water,
                              > >> and came out size
                              > >> 4T. The thought that passed though my mind was,
                              > ah!
                              > >> so this is how
                              > >> to get suitable material to make felt boots.
                              > >>
                              > >> But, if the wool is more typically thick,and the
                              > >> construction press
                              > >> is done right, the only time I have really had
                              > >> trouble is if a coat I
                              > >> had loaned out was machine washed, treatment no
                              > wool
                              > >> coat deserves.
                              > >> for that matter, wool coats should be very seldom
                              > >> washed, wool does
                              > >> not absorb sweat and oils and aromatics like
                              > >> cotton, and if allowed
                              > >> to air well will have just the right, er,
                              > quality,
                              > >> for the 16-17th
                              > >> C.
                              > >> -Rick
                              > >>
                              > >> --- In sig@yahoogroups.com, "Lente" <lente@...>
                              > >> wrote:
                              > >> >
                              > >> > that's what I did on my long wool coat, but I
                              > have
                              > >> found since that
                              > >> my wool
                              > >> > is so thick (prewashed 3x's in hot) the seam
                              > >> allowances will not
                              > >> lay flat so
                              > >> > now I am going back and doing a herringbone (or
                              > >> catchstitch) on the
                              > >> inside
                              > >> > down each side of the seam to keep the seam
                              > >> allowances flat. since
                              > >> I'm using
                              > >> > a matching color in sewing thread its not
                              > showing
                              > >> on the outside,
                              > >> not
                              > >> > certain it will show on the outside. I also
                              > used
                              > >> the same stich for
                              > >> the hem,
                              > >> > keeps it all nice and flat so I don't catch the
                              > >> hem on stuff.
                              > >> >
                              > >> > Kathws
                              > >> >
                              > >> > Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:38 AM
                              > >> > Subject: RE : Re: [sig] Seam Finishes
                              > >> >
                              > >> >
                              > >> > > The majority of my tailoring is with coats,
                              > >> using heavy wool cloth
                              > >> > > that is so felted that you need to inspect
                              > >> closely to see
                              > >> evidence of
                              > >> > > the weave. If its the good stuff it does not
                              > >> need any sort of
                              > >> edge
                              > >> > > finishing, (nor did they do so in period, at
                              > >> least with soldier's
                              > >> > > coats, although I don't know one way or the
                              > >> other for rich men's
                              > >> > > clothes - but in truth it does not need it.
                              > just
                              > >> needs to be
                              > >> pressed
                              > >> > > flat.)
                              > >> >
                              > >>
                              > >>
                              > >>
                              > >>
                              > >>
                              > >>
                              > >
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                            • Lente
                              And if you aren t sure you want the effect that fulling will have on wool, try washing swatches of your wool first. Something like a 9 by 9 square should work
                              Message 14 of 17 , May 12 10:33 AM
                              • 0 Attachment
                                And if you aren't sure you want the effect that fulling will have on wool,
                                try washing swatches of your wool first. Something like a 9 by 9 square
                                should work fine, half that size might work fine also. I will be probably
                                trying this with some tan coat weight wool that I had bought to make a wool
                                mongol coat for my lord out of; he has since decided for him that will be
                                too much so a chamois flannel coat is in the works. So now I am thinking I
                                will end up using the coat wool to make coats for our 2 kids in the future.
                                Since it is a coat weight and possibly was labeled dry clean (I've had it
                                for 4 years or so) I will use some swatches to test for shrinkage and color
                                loss in both hot, warm and cold water cycles; I'm planning for at least 3
                                swatches.

                                Kathws


                                Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 8:39 AM
                                Subject: Re: [sig] Seam Finishes


                                > Hey, thanks for the tips! I have all this second hand
                                > as I'm a dyed in the wool Russian but I had planed to
                                > fill in the shallow spots in my wardrobe with leather,
                                > linen and wool this year! This will really help!
                                > 'dok
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