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Re: ferezia

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  • Rick Orli
    And are originally made of what is in English called Frieze material some notes from `Textiles of the Common Man and Woman 1580-1660 by Stuart Peachy (England
    Message 1 of 7 , Feb 3, 2006
      And are originally made of what is in English called Frieze
      material
      some notes from `Textiles of the Common Man and Woman 1580-1660'
      by Stuart Peachy (England context)

      "Raising was napping the fabric with teasling or frizing. Teasling
      used the seed pod of a cultivated teasle set in a frame. Frizing uses
      fine metal rubbers (sort of like a curry brush) in a circular motion,
      and was done to one side only. Cottoning was similar. Frieze, rugs,
      and cottons were usually finished at this stage.
      Frizado is a sort of napping in a single direction, which especially
      when done to a `hairy' woolen produced a sort of shaggy effect.
      .............

      "A frieze is a corse heavy cloth, the warmest winter outerwear, and
      also fashionable when of fine quality. It was made 24" wide and was
      very heavy and thick (2mm plus), the heaviest and thickest made.
      There is another similar cloth called `rug' which may be the same
      basic fabric but in the context of bed covers/blankets rather then
      clothing. Clothing made with Frieze listed in estates were usually
      outerwear; `gowns' (long overcoats), coats, and jerkins - usually
      grey, black or russet, with a little white, red, green and indigo.
      The frieze finish is heavily napped such that it looks like felt, and
      is usually `hairy shag, nappie or high nap, full of hair'.

      (By the way, the Frizado finish mentioned above in part 1 can be
      applied to non-frieze cloth.)

      One side is `hairy' - which side was worn `out'? Peachy describes the
      two schools of thought:
      hairy side out... if nap is downward it might shed water- good for
      rain etc..
      Hairy side in.... if for winter and so primarily for insulation, the
      felt windproof side should be out and the hairy side in would trap
      pockets of warm air. He points to examples of illustrations that seem
      to show shaggy side in.

      In 1608-9 frieze was heavily exported from England; exports:
      cottons (wool lining) 42000 yards
      Broadcloth 16000 yards
      Frieze 12000 yards
      Kersies (twill) 8400 yards
      Penistones 2600 yards
      Wadmoles 1900 yards
      plus various others in small quantities, for example:
      Polonia Cloth 560 yards
      Linsey Woolsey 60 yards

      Flannel was made in some quantity also, but it was lightweight poor
      quality cloth that was not exported much. Frieze nap is raised more
      than flannel, which is matted yet flat.

      'Cotton' is made of sheep-wool (not the cotton plant!). It is similar
      to frieze but is not as dense and not as tightly matted, so is
      unsuitable for outerwear but good for lining other cloth. It is
      half the weight of frieze or less. It is made of inferior wool,
      unsuitable for other uses, and is quite cheap. (About the only
      documented mention of using cotton to alone make clothes is for
      children, especially in orphanages.) The slack weave of cotton made
      it stretchy, so it was used by the military for socks. Like the
      frieze, it is made in 24inch widths.

      Cotton is about 1/3 the cost of frieze, frieze is about half the cost
      of a fine broadcloth.
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