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9025Re: [sig] Linen weight

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  • Lente
    Jul 16 4:42 PM
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      I am cutting and pasting from another list that someone posted these linen
      weights and silk weights. hope this helps.--kathws

      These are the general recommendations for linen weights. I didn't write
      them- I don't remember who did, unfortunately!

      Hanky Linen (usually 3.5 oz) - Good for veils, chemises, linings, etc.

      Lightweight linen (usually 3.6-4.2 oz) - Good for veils, chemises, linings,
      tunics when you'll be wearing two or more, skirts (again, if you'll be
      layering) harem pants, etc.

      Medium weight linen (usually 4.3-5.5 oz) - Good for tunics, skirts, bodices,

      most any type of gown. The most common weight used in garb.

      Heavy weight linen (5.6-7.2 oz and beyond) - Good for heavy-duty garb like
      fencing vests and pants, garb that will get much stress put on it like
      side-laced bliauts, etc. The 5.6 range is good for back-laced cotehardies.
      Line a coat
      weight wool cloak in 7.2 oz linen and you'll never go cold, though you might

      faint from exhaustion after walking round all day in it. Good bed blanket,
      that.

      ---

      As for silk, I can make a few garb recommendations based on weight, though
      everyone's welcome to chime in and tell me that I'm completely wrong! Silk
      generally goes by mm weight- that is, momme (pronounced "mummy", I think),
      though
      heavy weight silks, such as suiting silks, go by grams or have no weight
      listed.

      1-8 mm: These are usually sheer or semisheer, and quite wispy. I've never
      seen anything below 3 or 3.5 mm, which is very airy, transparent silk gauze.

      Lighter weight habotai (habutai, also called "China silk") falls into this
      category, as does lighter-weight chiffon (not georgette, it seems) and
      organza
      (other than "heavy" organza).

      10-18mm: Ten mm or so seems to be when things begin to become solid rather
      than sheer, though 12mm is still quite light. Silk satin (not heavy bridal
      satin) is in this area, as are some habotais, georgettes, heavy organza,
      some
      charmeuse, most crepe de chine. Most jacquards also fall into this
      category, as
      do some tussahs.

      18mm and up: Heavier weight silk. Most charmeuse, some crepe de chine.
      Some
      jacquards, some dupioni (Chinese dupioni, as seen at Silk Connection, is
      19mm). Tussah boucle, some other tussahs, heavy bridal satin (23mm), heavy
      charmeuse.

      The weights given are all from www.silkconnection.com. Silk taffeta was not
      given a weight but is considered "lightweight" (I'm not sure if that makes
      it sheer or not- some taffetas seem to be sheer, others are quite opaque).
      Fuji broadcloth is measured in pound-weights (10lb), silk noil did not have
      a
      weight listing but can be lightweight or heavier (I have noil thin enough
      that it needed a backing). Silk/rayon velvets, burnout and solid, are not
      given
      weights but are generally considered to be heavy in large quantities <g>.
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