New PDF Document in Files - Installing a KC1 in the Sierra (KC1InSierra.pdf)
As you probably no, the KC2, is no longer available. So, I bought a KC1. I just finished installing my KC1. I didn't see a lot of info online about doing this. Pictures were pretty scarce. So, I decided to post some info about my experience.
This is in the Files area. The file is KC1InSierra.pdf.
- Wow very nice job Richard and amazing documentation !
This will be a great resource for anyone wanting install a KC1.
Obviously you put a lot of time and effort into this ... many thanks.
--- In email@example.com, "richardk4krw" <r_in_remac@...> wrote:
> As you probably no, the KC2, is no longer available. So, I bought a KC1. I just finished installing my KC1. I didn't see a lot of info online about doing this. Pictures were pretty scarce. So, I decided to post some info about my experience.
> This is in the Files area. The file is KC1InSierra.pdf.
- Thanks Richard.
Very nice and clean work. And nice documentation.
You are rigth, there is little, not to say "none", documentation about installing the KC1 in the Sierra. I made the same search too last summer.
I built my Sierra last June (2011). I also bougth the noise blanker and I was also thinking in byuing the KC1. So, your documentation will be a precious help.
So thanks for the time you took in creating that document, and to have share it with us : it was really something missing.
I like your ideas: using a imaging software to try different positioning, using masking tape for the markings, and so on. Little simple tricks that works. Same for the value of drill bits : nice to have them already, somewhere.
I also bougth an analog S-meter that I'd like to install in my Sierra. But that would be later, probably this winter.
Chris from Montreal area, Quebec, Canada.
- Thanks Chris (and Michael VE3WMB),
I figured that if I had questions, someone else probably does too. I used to edit the newsletter for my ham club. So, I learned then not to do anything ham related without taking pictures. I always needed material for articles.
Last night I started looking at getting the frequency counter calibrated. I was playing with two band modules. The KC1 presents a challenge that the KC2 avoids.
With the KC2, once installed you can basically ignore the tuning knob markings because the KC2 gives you all of the information you need.
With the KC1, the tuning knob is the only 'ever present' frequency indicator you have. So, inevitably you will want to use it.
Prior to installing the KC1, I had all of my band modules tweaked to be accurate at the QRP calling frequency for their band. This was possible because I could tweak the XTAL calibration and it didn't matter exactly what the VFO frequency was.
With the KC1, it does matter. The counter will indicate you are at X.040 for example for every band module using the same counter settings at the exact same position of the dial. So, if the counter matches the mechanical dial at 7.040, it will also match it at 14.040. If digital and mechanical dials don't match at 7.060, they won't match at 14.060.
You can't fudge the tuning with the XTAL calibration because then the frequency counter would not match the actual frequency.
So, take the following band modules (40m, 30m 20m, 17, 15m, 10m)
They all share the same VFO configuration.
Here are their QRP calling frequencies:
40m - 7.040 (or 7.030)
30m - 10.106
20m - 14.060
17m - 18.069
15m - 21.060
10m - 28.060
So, you can choose one of .030, .040, .060, .069 or .106 and the mechanical dial would be dead on at that location for every band module. But, as you move away from that position, error increases.
You will have the same issue with 80m and 12m
160m - 1.810 (10 on dial)
12m - 24.906 (106 on dial)
80m is the only module using that configuration.
One thing you could do to make it accurate at .030 and .060 is use the extra counter configuration. Leave all of the 0.060 band modules alone and short both band selectors (B1 & B2) on the 40m module. It would use the 4th configuration. You can then adjust it to be accurate at 7.030 by playing with the offset frequency you enter into the counter configuration.
Note: The mechanical dial is reasonably accurate. This is not a huge problem. Overall, I am very impressed by this radio. I just like improving things where I can.
(Another option is to make your own calibrated markings on the tuning knob)
Hope this makes sense. I'm still playing. But this is what things look like so far.
Once I have all of this figured out, I'll add it to my PDF document.