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Re: [SCA Newcomers] making garb

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  • Crystal ortiz
    Welcome to the SCA!!! In truth I ve used commerical patterns several times and then (with research) adapted them to a more historically accurate garment. I
    Message 1 of 4 , Sep 1, 2007
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      Welcome to the SCA!!!

      In truth I've used commerical patterns several times
      and then (with research) adapted them to a more
      historically accurate garment. I have however made my
      own patterns using (don't laught) a t-shirt, masking
      tape and sisscors. Not to mention making damn good use
      of the laurels in my kingdom. I currently wear a good
      deal of german garb which is quite form fitting and
      with the use of a mannaquin it certainly does help!!!

      I hope this helps?

      -Cris
      --- sylance123 <emily.clark@...> wrote:

      > I am new to the SCA but not to sewing, atleast from
      > patterns. I really
      > like to get patterns and morph them to something
      > else closer to what
      > i'm going for. but I've never really been able to
      > make my own patterns.
      > i was curious to know if most of you make your garb
      > without patterns or
      > if you use patterns already made but just redo them
      > to what you need?
      > also, doew anyone have one of those manakin (i don't
      > know how to spell
      > it) that are specifically used for fashion, the ones
      > that can be
      > adjusted to be certain measurements? do you find
      > that ahving one of
      > those helps or is just nice for fine tuning garb
      > rather than building
      > on?
      >
      > and also, does anyone know any good sources for
      > irish or scottish garb?
      > namely gaelic but i'm still unsure of what i'm truly
      > going for in time
      > period.
      >
      > thanks for your help!
      >
      >



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    • Coblaith Mhuimhneach
      ... If you decide to go early-period, Finnacan Dub s Early Gaelic Dress: An Introduction
      Message 2 of 4 , Sep 2, 2007
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        sylance123 wrote:
        > . . .does anyone know any good sources for irish or scottish garb?
        > namely gaelic but i'm still unsure of what i'm truly going for in time
        > period.

        If you decide to go early-period, Finnacan Dub's "Early Gaelic Dress:
        An Introduction"
        <http://b-b-fam.home.texas.net/Coblaith/EarlyGaelicDress/default.html>
        is the place to start.


        If you decide to go late-period, consider:

        Reconstructing History's articles on late-period Irish dress
        <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/index.html>, Scottish
        clothing from "ancient times to 1600"
        <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=&c=8&d=117&a=134&w=2>
        and the arisaid
        <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?
        s=&c=8&d=117&a=131&w=2>,

        Medieval Scotland's clothing resources
        <http://medievalscotland.org/clothing/>, and

        the Reviewed Index of Scottish Clothing Links
        <http://www.albanach.org/review.html>.


        There are two good printed references on the history of Irish clothing,
        one of which is also among the premier resources on Scottish clothing
        history:

        _Dress in Ireland: A History_, by Mairead Dunlevy is widely available.
        You should be able to find it through Inter-Library Loan (in the
        States, at least) as well as through any number of on- and off-line
        vendors. The author has webbed a brief article on the history of
        clothing in county Clare
        <http://www.clarelibrary.ie/eolas/coclare/history/costume.htm> that you
        might find somewhat useful.

        _Old Irish and Highland Dress, with Notes on That of the Isle of Man_,
        by H.F. McClintock is an older book, long out of print, which is
        difficult to find in hard copy anywhere. It is available in a PDF
        facsimile edition from Unicorn Limited
        <http://www.scotpress.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=93>.


        Coblaith Mhuimhneach
        Barony of Bryn Gwlad
        Kingdom of Ansteorra
        <mailto:Coblaith@...>
      • Coblaith Mhuimhneach
        ... I don t need patterns--my persona wears tunics and rectangular cloaks, so all I need is a tape measure and a ruler. That said. . . Many of the experienced
        Message 3 of 4 , Sep 2, 2007
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          sylance123 wrote:
          > I really like to get patterns and morph them to something else closer
          > to what i'm going for. but I've never really been able to make my own
          > patterns. i was curious to know if most of you make your garb without
          > patterns or if you use patterns already made but just redo them to
          > what you need?

          I don't need patterns--my persona wears tunics and rectangular cloaks,
          so all I need is a tape measure and a ruler. That said. . .

          Many of the experienced clothes-makers in the S.C.A. Garb Yahoo! Group
          <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Garb/> report finding it easier to
          draft their own patterns than to adapt ahistoric commercial patterns,
          because the latter require so *many* adaptations and each adaptation
          takes so much time and knowledge. (Consider what's involved in
          removing darts, alone
          <http://www.modehistorique.com/elizabethan/removedart.html>.) You
          don't save yourself any research, either, since you have to know how
          the garments you're emulating were made in order to plan the
          appropriate changes. That doesn't mean it can't be done. There are
          people who do it all the time
          <http://www.virtue.to/articles/modern_patterns.html>. It's just not
          necessarily a labor-saver.

          There are a few patterns on the market that are historically accurate
          to begin with. The two producers I hear about most often are
          Reconstructing History
          <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?c=22&w=24&r=Y> and
          Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
          <http://www.margospatterns.com/>. They're both known to base their
          products on solid research. And Burda <http://burdamode.com> has
          reasonably accurate patterns for a sideless surcoat with a matching
          underdress for women (number 7977) and a gown with detachable sleeves
          for girls (number 9658--the lacing shown is wrong, of course).

          > . . .doew anyone have one of those manakin (i don't know how to spell
          > it) that are specifically used for fashion, the ones that can be
          > adjusted to be certain measurements?

          The term you're looking for is "dress form".

          I have a custom brown-paper dress form, made according to the
          directions at <http://www.taunton.com/Threads/pages/t00002.asp>. I
          find it extremely useful for fitting modern clothes. However, since I
          was wearing a modern bra when it was made, anything I made on it would
          fit differently if I put it on without one, so I wouldn't use it for
          garb. It also doesn't "squish" like I do, so it wouldn't be good for
          supportive garments (like a Gothic Fitted Dress or corset) in any
          event. (That's true of most dress forms, including the ones with the
          padded covers. Unless your flesh has the consistency of the foam it's
          padded with, you can't substitute fittings on a form for fittings on
          yourself where such garments are concerned. Even using a commercial
          dress form to fit clothes worn *over* a corset isn't advisable unless
          you make some significant modifications
          <http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/draping/setup.shtml>.) On the
          other hand, my form was cheap and fairly easy to make. If I, say, wore
          a certain sort of corset under all my gowns, I'd probably just get one
          made while wearing that, and then use it to fit my S.C.A. clothes.

          > do you find that ahving one of those helps or is just nice for fine
          > tuning garb rather than building on?

          If you like to drape rather than draft, you'll probably find a dress
          form indispensable. The Sempstress site has good images and
          descriptions of how one designer uses hers for this
          <http://sempstress.org/patterns/draping/>. Don't forget that, for
          fitted clothing, it will be important that the form be *shaped like
          you*, not just have the same bust, waist, and hip measurements.

          If you prefer to work your adjustments out on paper, you'll have less
          need for a form. ("Fine tuning" is a good description of what it'd be
          for, in that case.) The Sempstress site has good information on this,
          too <http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/drafting/>.


          Coblaith Mhuimhneach
          Barony of Bryn Gwlad
          Kingdom of Ansteorra
          <mailto:Coblaith@...>
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