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making garb

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  • sylance123
    I am new to the SCA but not to sewing, atleast from patterns. I really like to get patterns and morph them to something else closer to what i m going for. but
    Message 1 of 4 , Sep 1, 2007
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      I am new to the SCA but not to sewing, atleast from patterns. I really
      like to get patterns and morph them to something else closer to what
      i'm going for. but I've never really been able to make my own patterns.
      i was curious to know if most of you make your garb without patterns or
      if you use patterns already made but just redo them to what you need?
      also, doew anyone have one of those manakin (i don't know how to spell
      it) that are specifically used for fashion, the ones that can be
      adjusted to be certain measurements? do you find that ahving one of
      those helps or is just nice for fine tuning garb rather than building
      on?

      and also, does anyone know any good sources for irish or scottish garb?
      namely gaelic but i'm still unsure of what i'm truly going for in time
      period.

      thanks for your help!
    • Crystal ortiz
      Welcome to the SCA!!! In truth I ve used commerical patterns several times and then (with research) adapted them to a more historically accurate garment. I
      Message 2 of 4 , Sep 1, 2007
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        Welcome to the SCA!!!

        In truth I've used commerical patterns several times
        and then (with research) adapted them to a more
        historically accurate garment. I have however made my
        own patterns using (don't laught) a t-shirt, masking
        tape and sisscors. Not to mention making damn good use
        of the laurels in my kingdom. I currently wear a good
        deal of german garb which is quite form fitting and
        with the use of a mannaquin it certainly does help!!!

        I hope this helps?

        -Cris
        --- sylance123 <emily.clark@...> wrote:

        > I am new to the SCA but not to sewing, atleast from
        > patterns. I really
        > like to get patterns and morph them to something
        > else closer to what
        > i'm going for. but I've never really been able to
        > make my own patterns.
        > i was curious to know if most of you make your garb
        > without patterns or
        > if you use patterns already made but just redo them
        > to what you need?
        > also, doew anyone have one of those manakin (i don't
        > know how to spell
        > it) that are specifically used for fashion, the ones
        > that can be
        > adjusted to be certain measurements? do you find
        > that ahving one of
        > those helps or is just nice for fine tuning garb
        > rather than building
        > on?
        >
        > and also, does anyone know any good sources for
        > irish or scottish garb?
        > namely gaelic but i'm still unsure of what i'm truly
        > going for in time
        > period.
        >
        > thanks for your help!
        >
        >



        ____________________________________________________________________________________
        Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us. http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7
      • Coblaith Mhuimhneach
        ... If you decide to go early-period, Finnacan Dub s Early Gaelic Dress: An Introduction
        Message 3 of 4 , Sep 2, 2007
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          sylance123 wrote:
          > . . .does anyone know any good sources for irish or scottish garb?
          > namely gaelic but i'm still unsure of what i'm truly going for in time
          > period.

          If you decide to go early-period, Finnacan Dub's "Early Gaelic Dress:
          An Introduction"
          <http://b-b-fam.home.texas.net/Coblaith/EarlyGaelicDress/default.html>
          is the place to start.


          If you decide to go late-period, consider:

          Reconstructing History's articles on late-period Irish dress
          <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/index.html>, Scottish
          clothing from "ancient times to 1600"
          <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=&c=8&d=117&a=134&w=2>
          and the arisaid
          <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?
          s=&c=8&d=117&a=131&w=2>,

          Medieval Scotland's clothing resources
          <http://medievalscotland.org/clothing/>, and

          the Reviewed Index of Scottish Clothing Links
          <http://www.albanach.org/review.html>.


          There are two good printed references on the history of Irish clothing,
          one of which is also among the premier resources on Scottish clothing
          history:

          _Dress in Ireland: A History_, by Mairead Dunlevy is widely available.
          You should be able to find it through Inter-Library Loan (in the
          States, at least) as well as through any number of on- and off-line
          vendors. The author has webbed a brief article on the history of
          clothing in county Clare
          <http://www.clarelibrary.ie/eolas/coclare/history/costume.htm> that you
          might find somewhat useful.

          _Old Irish and Highland Dress, with Notes on That of the Isle of Man_,
          by H.F. McClintock is an older book, long out of print, which is
          difficult to find in hard copy anywhere. It is available in a PDF
          facsimile edition from Unicorn Limited
          <http://www.scotpress.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=93>.


          Coblaith Mhuimhneach
          Barony of Bryn Gwlad
          Kingdom of Ansteorra
          <mailto:Coblaith@...>
        • Coblaith Mhuimhneach
          ... I don t need patterns--my persona wears tunics and rectangular cloaks, so all I need is a tape measure and a ruler. That said. . . Many of the experienced
          Message 4 of 4 , Sep 2, 2007
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            sylance123 wrote:
            > I really like to get patterns and morph them to something else closer
            > to what i'm going for. but I've never really been able to make my own
            > patterns. i was curious to know if most of you make your garb without
            > patterns or if you use patterns already made but just redo them to
            > what you need?

            I don't need patterns--my persona wears tunics and rectangular cloaks,
            so all I need is a tape measure and a ruler. That said. . .

            Many of the experienced clothes-makers in the S.C.A. Garb Yahoo! Group
            <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Garb/> report finding it easier to
            draft their own patterns than to adapt ahistoric commercial patterns,
            because the latter require so *many* adaptations and each adaptation
            takes so much time and knowledge. (Consider what's involved in
            removing darts, alone
            <http://www.modehistorique.com/elizabethan/removedart.html>.) You
            don't save yourself any research, either, since you have to know how
            the garments you're emulating were made in order to plan the
            appropriate changes. That doesn't mean it can't be done. There are
            people who do it all the time
            <http://www.virtue.to/articles/modern_patterns.html>. It's just not
            necessarily a labor-saver.

            There are a few patterns on the market that are historically accurate
            to begin with. The two producers I hear about most often are
            Reconstructing History
            <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?c=22&w=24&r=Y> and
            Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
            <http://www.margospatterns.com/>. They're both known to base their
            products on solid research. And Burda <http://burdamode.com> has
            reasonably accurate patterns for a sideless surcoat with a matching
            underdress for women (number 7977) and a gown with detachable sleeves
            for girls (number 9658--the lacing shown is wrong, of course).

            > . . .doew anyone have one of those manakin (i don't know how to spell
            > it) that are specifically used for fashion, the ones that can be
            > adjusted to be certain measurements?

            The term you're looking for is "dress form".

            I have a custom brown-paper dress form, made according to the
            directions at <http://www.taunton.com/Threads/pages/t00002.asp>. I
            find it extremely useful for fitting modern clothes. However, since I
            was wearing a modern bra when it was made, anything I made on it would
            fit differently if I put it on without one, so I wouldn't use it for
            garb. It also doesn't "squish" like I do, so it wouldn't be good for
            supportive garments (like a Gothic Fitted Dress or corset) in any
            event. (That's true of most dress forms, including the ones with the
            padded covers. Unless your flesh has the consistency of the foam it's
            padded with, you can't substitute fittings on a form for fittings on
            yourself where such garments are concerned. Even using a commercial
            dress form to fit clothes worn *over* a corset isn't advisable unless
            you make some significant modifications
            <http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/draping/setup.shtml>.) On the
            other hand, my form was cheap and fairly easy to make. If I, say, wore
            a certain sort of corset under all my gowns, I'd probably just get one
            made while wearing that, and then use it to fit my S.C.A. clothes.

            > do you find that ahving one of those helps or is just nice for fine
            > tuning garb rather than building on?

            If you like to drape rather than draft, you'll probably find a dress
            form indispensable. The Sempstress site has good images and
            descriptions of how one designer uses hers for this
            <http://sempstress.org/patterns/draping/>. Don't forget that, for
            fitted clothing, it will be important that the form be *shaped like
            you*, not just have the same bust, waist, and hip measurements.

            If you prefer to work your adjustments out on paper, you'll have less
            need for a form. ("Fine tuning" is a good description of what it'd be
            for, in that case.) The Sempstress site has good information on this,
            too <http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/drafting/>.


            Coblaith Mhuimhneach
            Barony of Bryn Gwlad
            Kingdom of Ansteorra
            <mailto:Coblaith@...>
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