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Re: [SCA Newcomers] T-tunic style?

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  • Elizabeth Cember
    http://www.silverdor.org/viking/underdress.html is the one I ve found to be the easiest to sew. I d say to make an undertunic exactly as called for in the
    Message 1 of 6 , May 27, 2007
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      http://www.silverdor.org/viking/underdress.html is the one I've found to be the easiest to sew.

      I'd say to make an undertunic exactly as called for in the pattern, and make an overtunic with 2-4" of extra ease in every dimension (that is, add 2-4" to your body measurements and re-calculate the pattern just as you did for the undertunic). You can also just make them both pretty loose and then tighten up the seams on the undertunic if it doesn't fit well underneath.

      You can use the tunic as an underlayer for pretty much any outfit. By itself, a veil with bands or a wimple and a belt will work. Or you can make a http://www.silverdor.org/viking/vikingad.html.

      Um, that is to say, as long as the accessories go with each other, the tunic isn't going to stand out as an anachronism. And if you wear it as an underlayer, there'll definitely be no problem.

      Elspeth


      "I slept and dreamt that life was joy,
      I woke and saw that life was duty,
      I acted and behold, duty was joy"
      -- Rabinranath Tagore

      ----- Original Message ----
      From: Juliann <juliann@...>
      To: scanewcomers@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 4:02:56 PM
      Subject: [SCA Newcomers] T-tunic style?













      Oh, I know I promised my list of hand sewing links but every time I

      start compiling the list I keep finding more! I'll post it soon,

      really :)



      Meanwhile, I've found that I have about 4 meters of unbleached shirt

      weight linen, 3 meters of a heavier weight in grey. I haven't

      measured the width yet. I also have at least two (not attached)

      meters of a softer white linen that I plan to use for headgear.



      (To whomever suggested that I get a table over the bed for the sewing

      machine, I *have* a table, but I mostly use it for my computer. But

      my husband is *much* better at sewing than I am so I can probably

      convince him to do some seams for me ;) The problem there is that the

      machine needs a good cleaning :( -- it's his machine so you can

      imagine...)



      So, assuming a decent width of my linens, I think I can make an

      undergown, a t-tunic of some sort, plus headwear. My problem now is

      that while there are lots of patterns for t-tunics, I can't pick

      which one seems best :) And they don't all (in fact almost none)

      explain how to cut the garment differently based on whether it is to

      be an underlayer or an outer one.



      And then comes the subject of what /goes/ with a t-tunic? What sorts

      of head coverings are appropriate? What kinds of jewelry? Shoes?

      I'm confused because the tunic seems to be present through so many

      eras that it seems like almost anything goes, but I'd hate to look

      like the proverbial "Time machine" by wearing accessories that are

      all wrong for each other. Is there any easy guide *in the context of

      a basic tunic* what accessories are appropriate? Or am I just

      obsessing over nothing? :) I can't help it, I've done a lot more

      jewelry making and millinery than sewing so I am really more

      comfortable and want to get cracking but would be mortified to be all

      decked out in jewels that span the whole SCA period! *grin*



      I've also seen a lot on how to decorate a basic tunic with trim or

      paint or embroidery but I suspect all of those have their own time

      periods they work best with that might narrow down the field of

      appropriate accessories.



      I know I know, it's all about "reasonable attempt" at first, it's

      just that with so many choices I'd rather aim for things that go

      together rather than make a hat that turns out to be far too late and

      thus I shouldn't really wear it again until I get some later period

      garb do go with it. Or maybe I'd just have the words "Hi, I'm /

      really/ new" come out of my mouth rather than scream off my outfit :)



      OK I know I have babbled far too much this time so I shall let you

      go. For those who have Monday off, have a good long weekend!



      --Juliann/Brygyt












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    • bronwynmgn@aol.com
      In a message dated 5/27/2007 4:18:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, juliann@juliann.net writes:
      Message 2 of 6 , May 28, 2007
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        In a message dated 5/27/2007 4:18:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
        juliann@... writes:

        <<So, assuming a decent width of my linens, I think I can make an
        undergown, a t-tunic of some sort, plus headwear. My problem now is
        that while there are lots of patterns for t-tunics, I can't pick
        which one seems best :) And they don't all (in fact almost none)
        explain how to cut the garment differently based on whether it is to
        be an underlayer or an outer one.>>

        My personal preference for how to cut a tunic is what's known as the
        rectangular or geometric construction method, such as that at reconstructing
        history.com or _http://www.virtue.to/articles/_ (http://www.virtue.to/articles/) .
        The latter is a great set of articles which may also help with your other
        question about how to accessorize your tunic.

        I prefer this method because it is extremely conservative with fabric and
        because it is the way tunics were actually made in period. The modern cheats
        such as laying a long sleeve shirt and jeans on your folded-in-half fabric and
        swinging one leg of the jeans out, then cutting around that outline to make
        a garment which has sleeves and flair of the skirt cut all in one with only
        two seams , one down each side, are extremely wasteful of fabric. While if
        done correctly, it can make a garment that has a basically correct silhouette,
        it really doesn't hang correctly. It leaves you with two huge oddly shaped
        chunks of waste fabric. Even if you are, like me, short enough to get away
        with working across the width of 60" wide fabric, you are still going to need
        much more fabric. I can get a moderately full gown out of about 2.5 yards of
        60" wide fabric with almost no waste using geometric construction. Yes, it
        is more seams, and setting a gore can be a pain in the butt, but they are all
        straight seams and the end result is a better attempt and, I have found, more
        comfortable to wear.

        As far as differences in cutting based on inner or outer layer, for a tunic
        there really aren't any, although you may want to make your inner layer
        sleeves tighter than the outer ones, or the skirt of the inner one slightly
        shorter. They can be made exactly the same, and in fact most of mine are.


        Brangwayna Morgan
        Shire of Silver Rylle, East Kingdom
        Lancaster, PA



        ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Elizabeth Cember
        The link to the tunic handout is no longer working off that page. If it s the one I m thinking of, it really doesn t give enough information for sewing--it s
        Message 3 of 6 , May 28, 2007
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          The link to the tunic handout is no longer working off that page. If it's the one I'm thinking of, it really doesn't give enough information for sewing--it's more an overall look at the history of the tunic and goes fairly in depth in things that aren't helpful for a beginning sewer while missing some (I'd think) obvious elements. I'm pretty sure there was only one handout with all the different possible colors and several Bayeaux tapestry pictures.

          Elspeth

          "I slept and dreamt that life was joy,
          I woke and saw that life was duty,
          I acted and behold, duty was joy"
          -- Rabinranath Tagore

          ----- Original Message ----
          From: Coblaith Mhuimhneach <Coblaith@...>


          I like Jane Stockton's

          <http://needleprayse .webcon.net. au/research/ index.html>. It's very

          complete. (She even included a sampling of colors achievable with

          period dyestuffs and the URLs of some sites with medieval images of

          tunics.) It's well illustrated, with no steps skipped or glossed-over.

          And it's a PDF, so it's easy to print out any part of it to keep handy

          while you work.




          Coblaith Mhuimhneach

          Barony of Bryn Gwlad

          Kingdom of Ansteorra

          <mailto:Coblaith@sbcglobal. net>














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        • Elizabeth Cember
          The link Brangwayna gave is excellent. I found that the cutting diagram from http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Tunics/TUNICS.HTML was easier to work
          Message 4 of 6 , May 28, 2007
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            The link Brangwayna gave is excellent. I found that the cutting diagram from http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Tunics/TUNICS.HTML was easier to work with, but the link from Cythia's (virture.to) site has clearer measurements. It did make hemming it less precise, since the bottom edge was all different lengths, but when I machine-basted the hem by just folding the fabric as I went it ended up perfectly level.

            For your first tunic, I'd recommend not putting in the center gores. Save that for your second tunic, and setting the gores in by hand will give you something to do with your hands during court. (Or there are instructions for setting the points by machine in the files of the SCA-garb Yahoo group.)

            Elspeth

            "I slept and dreamt that life was joy,
            I woke and saw that life was duty,
            I acted and behold, duty was joy"
            -- Rabinranath Tagore

            ----- Original Message ----
            From: "bronwynmgn@..." <bronwynmgn@...>


            My personal preference for how to cut a tunic is what's known as the

            rectangular or geometric construction method, such as that at reconstructing

            history.com or _http://www.virtue to/articles/ _ (http://www.virtue to/articles/) .


            Brangwayna Morgan

            Shire of Silver Rylle, East Kingdom

            Lancaster, PA



            ************ ********* ********* ******** See what's free at http://www.aol com.



            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














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          • Elizabeth Cember
            Ack, I just realized this sounded really harsh. It s just that I was just trying to figure out a basic tunic myself, and had a lot of trouble with
            Message 5 of 6 , May 28, 2007
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              Ack, I just realized this sounded really harsh. It's just that I was just trying to figure out a basic tunic myself, and had a lot of trouble with instructions that missed one or more key elements. I haven't looked at the Stockton handout in so long I don't remember exactly what was missing, but I know that the other handouts were far better when it actually came to sewing. The color choice stuff was quite interesting.

              She also has an interesting garb myths site (http://www.geocities.com/jane_of_stockton/sca_garb_myths.html)

              Elspeth


              ----- Original Message ----
              From: Elizabeth Cember <sapphire_chan@...>







              The link to the tunic handout is no longer working off that page. If it's the one I'm thinking of, it really doesn't give enough information for sewing--it's more an overall look at the history of the tunic and goes fairly in depth in things that aren't helpful for a beginning sewer while missing some (I'd think) obvious elements. I'm pretty sure there was only one handout with all the different possible colors and several Bayeaux tapestry pictures.



              Elspeth



              "










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            • Coblaith Mhuimhneach
              ... It worked fine for me, just now. Maybe you re accessing a cached copy of the page, or something? She used to host the file on her own site, but now it s
              Message 6 of 6 , May 28, 2007
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                Juliann/Brygyt wrote:
                > My problem now is that while there are lots of patterns for t-tunics,
                > I can't pick which one seems best :)

                I wrote:
                > I like Jane Stockton's
                > <http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/research/index.html>.

                Elspeth replied:
                > The link to the tunic handout is no longer working off that page.

                It worked fine for me, just now. Maybe you're accessing a cached copy
                of the page, or something? She used to host the file on her own site,
                but now it's on box.net, at <http://www.box.net/shared/z1bmi06njy>.


                Coblaith Mhuimhneach
                Barony of Bryn Gwlad
                Kingdom of Ansteorra
                <mailto:Coblaith@...>
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