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11292Re: [SCA Newcomers] making garb

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  • Coblaith Mhuimhneach
    Sep 2, 2007
      sylance123 wrote:
      > I really like to get patterns and morph them to something else closer
      > to what i'm going for. but I've never really been able to make my own
      > patterns. i was curious to know if most of you make your garb without
      > patterns or if you use patterns already made but just redo them to
      > what you need?

      I don't need patterns--my persona wears tunics and rectangular cloaks,
      so all I need is a tape measure and a ruler. That said. . .

      Many of the experienced clothes-makers in the S.C.A. Garb Yahoo! Group
      <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Garb/> report finding it easier to
      draft their own patterns than to adapt ahistoric commercial patterns,
      because the latter require so *many* adaptations and each adaptation
      takes so much time and knowledge. (Consider what's involved in
      removing darts, alone
      <http://www.modehistorique.com/elizabethan/removedart.html>.) You
      don't save yourself any research, either, since you have to know how
      the garments you're emulating were made in order to plan the
      appropriate changes. That doesn't mean it can't be done. There are
      people who do it all the time
      <http://www.virtue.to/articles/modern_patterns.html>. It's just not
      necessarily a labor-saver.

      There are a few patterns on the market that are historically accurate
      to begin with. The two producers I hear about most often are
      Reconstructing History
      <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?c=22&w=24&r=Y> and
      Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
      <http://www.margospatterns.com/>. They're both known to base their
      products on solid research. And Burda <http://burdamode.com> has
      reasonably accurate patterns for a sideless surcoat with a matching
      underdress for women (number 7977) and a gown with detachable sleeves
      for girls (number 9658--the lacing shown is wrong, of course).

      > . . .doew anyone have one of those manakin (i don't know how to spell
      > it) that are specifically used for fashion, the ones that can be
      > adjusted to be certain measurements?

      The term you're looking for is "dress form".

      I have a custom brown-paper dress form, made according to the
      directions at <http://www.taunton.com/Threads/pages/t00002.asp>. I
      find it extremely useful for fitting modern clothes. However, since I
      was wearing a modern bra when it was made, anything I made on it would
      fit differently if I put it on without one, so I wouldn't use it for
      garb. It also doesn't "squish" like I do, so it wouldn't be good for
      supportive garments (like a Gothic Fitted Dress or corset) in any
      event. (That's true of most dress forms, including the ones with the
      padded covers. Unless your flesh has the consistency of the foam it's
      padded with, you can't substitute fittings on a form for fittings on
      yourself where such garments are concerned. Even using a commercial
      dress form to fit clothes worn *over* a corset isn't advisable unless
      you make some significant modifications
      <http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/draping/setup.shtml>.) On the
      other hand, my form was cheap and fairly easy to make. If I, say, wore
      a certain sort of corset under all my gowns, I'd probably just get one
      made while wearing that, and then use it to fit my S.C.A. clothes.

      > do you find that ahving one of those helps or is just nice for fine
      > tuning garb rather than building on?

      If you like to drape rather than draft, you'll probably find a dress
      form indispensable. The Sempstress site has good images and
      descriptions of how one designer uses hers for this
      <http://sempstress.org/patterns/draping/>. Don't forget that, for
      fitted clothing, it will be important that the form be *shaped like
      you*, not just have the same bust, waist, and hip measurements.

      If you prefer to work your adjustments out on paper, you'll have less
      need for a form. ("Fine tuning" is a good description of what it'd be
      for, in that case.) The Sempstress site has good information on this,
      too <http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/drafting/>.

      Coblaith Mhuimhneach
      Barony of Bryn Gwlad
      Kingdom of Ansteorra
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