11292Re: [SCA Newcomers] making garb
- Sep 2, 2007sylance123 wrote:
> I really like to get patterns and morph them to something else closerI don't need patterns--my persona wears tunics and rectangular cloaks,
> to what i'm going for. but I've never really been able to make my own
> patterns. i was curious to know if most of you make your garb without
> patterns or if you use patterns already made but just redo them to
> what you need?
so all I need is a tape measure and a ruler. That said. . .
Many of the experienced clothes-makers in the S.C.A. Garb Yahoo! Group
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Garb/> report finding it easier to
draft their own patterns than to adapt ahistoric commercial patterns,
because the latter require so *many* adaptations and each adaptation
takes so much time and knowledge. (Consider what's involved in
removing darts, alone
don't save yourself any research, either, since you have to know how
the garments you're emulating were made in order to plan the
appropriate changes. That doesn't mean it can't be done. There are
people who do it all the time
<http://www.virtue.to/articles/modern_patterns.html>. It's just not
necessarily a labor-saver.
There are a few patterns on the market that are historically accurate
to begin with. The two producers I hear about most often are
Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
<http://www.margospatterns.com/>. They're both known to base their
products on solid research. And Burda <http://burdamode.com> has
reasonably accurate patterns for a sideless surcoat with a matching
underdress for women (number 7977) and a gown with detachable sleeves
for girls (number 9658--the lacing shown is wrong, of course).
> . . .doew anyone have one of those manakin (i don't know how to spellThe term you're looking for is "dress form".
> it) that are specifically used for fashion, the ones that can be
> adjusted to be certain measurements?
I have a custom brown-paper dress form, made according to the
directions at <http://www.taunton.com/Threads/pages/t00002.asp>. I
find it extremely useful for fitting modern clothes. However, since I
was wearing a modern bra when it was made, anything I made on it would
fit differently if I put it on without one, so I wouldn't use it for
garb. It also doesn't "squish" like I do, so it wouldn't be good for
supportive garments (like a Gothic Fitted Dress or corset) in any
event. (That's true of most dress forms, including the ones with the
padded covers. Unless your flesh has the consistency of the foam it's
padded with, you can't substitute fittings on a form for fittings on
yourself where such garments are concerned. Even using a commercial
dress form to fit clothes worn *over* a corset isn't advisable unless
you make some significant modifications
<http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/draping/setup.shtml>.) On the
other hand, my form was cheap and fairly easy to make. If I, say, wore
a certain sort of corset under all my gowns, I'd probably just get one
made while wearing that, and then use it to fit my S.C.A. clothes.
> do you find that ahving one of those helps or is just nice for fineIf you like to drape rather than draft, you'll probably find a dress
> tuning garb rather than building on?
form indispensable. The Sempstress site has good images and
descriptions of how one designer uses hers for this
<http://sempstress.org/patterns/draping/>. Don't forget that, for
fitted clothing, it will be important that the form be *shaped like
you*, not just have the same bust, waist, and hip measurements.
If you prefer to work your adjustments out on paper, you'll have less
need for a form. ("Fine tuning" is a good description of what it'd be
for, in that case.) The Sempstress site has good information on this,
Barony of Bryn Gwlad
Kingdom of Ansteorra
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