A few questions
- Hello All,
I've been lurking for awhile and I finally have to ask a few
Of course, when you punch into the die, You displace metal in the
form of ridges. While I'm creating a letter for instance, this ridge
overlaps my previous punching action. Causing an "E" to look like a
jumble of lines. Should I be removing these ridges?
And after looking closely at the An Tir copper coins, I notice that
the letters are flatter. I guess I'm making my punches to sharp.
And lastly, I'm using cold rolled steel for my dies. Good? Bad? Do
I need tool steel? If so, do you annel this and only harden the
- At 07:35 PM 7/8/2003 -0000, Stephen wrote:
>overlaps >my previous punching action, causing an "E" to look like a jumble
> I've been lurking for awhile and I finally have to ask a few
> Of course, when you punch into the die, You displace metal in the
> form of ridges. While I'm creating a letter for instance, this ridge
of lines. >Should I be removing these ridges?
No, the ridges should not be removed. They actually help to make it easier
to get good strikes by accelerating the lateral displacement of metal in
the coin blank you're striking. As for the overlapping, without actually
seeing the problem on the die, I can only guess that you're either punching
the elements too close together or too deeply.
> And after looking closely at the An Tir copper coins, I notice thatThat depends on which coins you're looking at. I'm assuming that by 'the
> the letters are flatter.
An Tir copper coins' you're referring to the St. Hildegard's copper $1
trade coins (which are an inch in diameter and 1/8" thick). Of the 39
design types of the St.H. coins, those inscribed "John Kane - Bookseller",
"Greenwood Players", "Golde Lemon", "Seattle Knights", "House of the Silver
Winds", "House Platypi", "Shasta Highlands Faire", "Glastonbury Ren'Faire",
"Holy Glen Shire", and the one with the Asian style dragon all have letters
sunk with flat faced punches.
On the ones inscribed "Barak Basileus An Tir", "Barak et Lao Patroni", and
"Skepti-Barak", the letters were made with a short wide blunt lining punch.
On the one with the Norse Battle raven, the runic inscription was punched
with a sharp chisel shaped punch. On the one inscribed "Stone Garden", the
insular half uncial style letters were engraved with round and oval gravers
to have a flat face. All of the rest have Byzantine style lettering,
engraved with a square graver so that they have a V shaped cross section
and a sharp ridge down the middle of each letter stroke when fully struck up.
>I guess I'm making my punches to sharp.That's not likely as a matter of the tool working correctly, although the
resulting style can look wrong for the period of the particular design
you're using. Recently I have used sharp chisel shaped punches for the
lettering on my copy of the Eadgar penny, and a type copying the helmet
type of King Knut, as well as an Apprentice of mine using those punches for
a piece based on the helmet type of Aedhelraed II. The results are, as
nearly as I can tell, stylistically very accurate for the Anglo-Saxon
period. However types from the 12th century onward tended to use flat
faced punches for the letters.
When fully struck up, letters sunk with flat faced punches will have flat
faces and square sides. However, it is (and was in period) very common
(especially when the punch is sunken deeply) for the metal of the flan not
to fill the whole punched shape, resulting in the letters having a very
rounded profile. My general impression is that French, Italian, and
Crusader states coins tended to have shallow flat letters, while Iberian,
British Isles, and German coins tended to have deeper punchwork, and
consequently more commonly rounded letters.
> And lastly, I'm using cold rolled steel for my dies. Good? Bad? DoI'll have to defer to those with more metallurgical knowledge on that one.
> I need tool steel?
>If so, do you anneal this and only harden theThe drill rod tool steel I use for dies is already annealed when bought.
> finished die?
Hardening the finished die is optional. If you're going to be striking
more than a thousand coins with a given die, it's probably a good idea. If
you're going to be over-striking bronze cents to make beer tokens, it's a
good idea. Otherwise, it's an unnecessary expense for striking pewter,
fine silver, fine gold, and even well annealed, thin, pure copper.
In nomine Scs. Eligius & Scs. Dunstanus -