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Now, time to sew the hitoe

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  • china_lurkr
    Greetings from Lady Brigid of Linnhe. Thanks for the advice on constructing hamaka. I saw told by more that one person that I looked great & others were glad
    Message 1 of 4 , Jul 1, 2003
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      Greetings from Lady Brigid of Linnhe.

      Thanks for the advice on constructing hamaka. I saw told by more that
      one person that I looked great & others were glad that I had done
      some research on the subject.I must admit that I felt a bit "bare"
      with just a kosode and hakama. With the high humidity on Saturday,
      even most of Atlantia's hearty fighters were wilting, I am sure that
      if I had even a silk hitoe, I would had to shed it. (I was also proud
      of the fact that when I was called into court, I did not get caught
      in my hakama and was able to neel & stand very gracefully:)*phew*)

      So my next question is about hitoe. I understand that the front of
      the sleeve opening is left open, but how is the sleeve connected to
      the body? Is it open at the arm pit (as a modern kimono, or is it
      fully attached to the body)? I was planing to make a Muromachi or
      Momoyama era hitoe since the material I plan to use is a dark blue
      silk with a thin beige pin stripe (and know that a solid color would
      have been more earlier period). Input & thoughts ?...

      I would also like to apologize for not introducing myself earlier in
      more detail. I promise to get the home PC connected to the 'net again
      so I can do more than post questions and take your knowlege to my
      fabric & sewing machine.

      I hope to met members of the list at Pennsic-
      Lady Brigid of Linnhe
    • Anthony J. Bryant
      ... Entirely. The floppy sleeve bit is a development from the kosode (underwear) which morphed into something more ostentatious as more and more layers were
      Message 2 of 4 , Jul 1, 2003
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        china_lurkr wrote:

        >
        > So my next question is about hitoe. I understand that the front of
        > the sleeve opening is left open, but how is the sleeve connected to
        > the body?

        Entirely. The floppy sleeve bit is a development from the kosode (underwear)
        which morphed into something more ostentatious as more and more layers were
        removed and the kosode moved up from "underwear" to "outerwear" -- sort of like
        the idea that 75 years ago T-shirts were sleeveless and white, but now they are
        all sorts of colors and have designs and images and slogans on them -- T-shirts
        are no longer "just" underwear.

        > Is it open at the arm pit (as a modern kimono, or is it
        > fully attached to the body)? I was planing to make a Muromachi or
        > Momoyama era hitoe since the material I plan to use is a dark blue
        > silk with a thin beige pin stripe (and know that a solid color would
        > have been more earlier period). Input & thoughts ?...
        >

        Well, be careful. Hitoe are worn *under* something. Usually under several
        somethings. You don't wear a hitoe alone, as they're unlined and often nearly
        translucent -- at least summer models tend to be. (Hitoe means, literally,
        "one-layer"). Actually, I'm trying to understand what you're making.

        One of the problems is that "hitoe" is as versatile word as "shirt." There is no
        single one that you can point to and say "That is it." -- usually we need to at
        least clarify whether it's a man's hitoe or a woman's, and beyond that we have
        to think about winter or summer hitoe, and what period, etc.


        Effingham
      • Rosemary Norwood
        ... Does he posibly mean hitatare?
        Message 3 of 4 , Jul 1, 2003
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          On Tue, Jul 01, 2003 at 01:21:24PM -0500, Anthony J. Bryant wrote:
          > china_lurkr wrote:

          >
          > > Is it open at the arm pit (as a modern kimono, or is it
          > > fully attached to the body)? I was planing to make a Muromachi or
          > > Momoyama era hitoe since the material I plan to use is a dark blue
          > > silk with a thin beige pin stripe (and know that a solid color would
          > > have been more earlier period). Input & thoughts ?...
          > >
          >
          > Well, be careful. Hitoe are worn *under* something. Usually under several
          > somethings. You don't wear a hitoe alone, as they're unlined and often nearly
          > translucent -- at least summer models tend to be. (Hitoe means, literally,
          > "one-layer"). Actually, I'm trying to understand what you're making.

          Does he posibly mean hitatare?
        • china_lurkr
          ... I am trying to make the outer robes on a costume. I have made a red linen hakama & a white linen kosode...So if I understand this correctly, I now need a
          Message 4 of 4 , Jul 2, 2003
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            --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "Anthony J. Bryant" <ajbryant@i...> >
            >Well, be careful. Hitoe are worn *under* something. Usually under
            >several somethings. You don't wear a hitoe alone, as they're unlined
            >and often nearly translucent -- at least summer models tend to be.
            >(Hitoe means, literally, "one-layer"). Actually, I'm trying to
            >understand what you're making.

            > Effingham

            I am trying to make the outer robes on a costume. I have made a red
            linen hakama & a white linen kosode...So if I understand this
            correctly, I now need a uchiki next on top of my kosode. I really
            like the Court Lady in every day wear fron the Heian Period.

            Well lets try this a bit backwards, with my choice of cloth. I had a
            friend that has recently moved & gave me yards of silk cloth (Yeap, I
            did a burn test on it). it is a very dark blue to a black with a thin
            pin stripe that repeats every 4 inches or so. What period would this
            cloth best fall under for a woman &/or a man? (If I can not use it I
            plan to make a set of japanese garb for my boyfriend.)

            Thanks-
            China
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