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Re: [SCA-JML] Re: Paper on plate?

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  • Marko Peussa
    Thanks for the info, I think the roughing step is quite important. At some time I m going to try it out with modern black lacquer paint. Could the paper be the
    Message 1 of 4 , May 1, 2003
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      Thanks for the info, I think the roughing step is quite important. At some
      time I'm going to try it out with modern black lacquer paint. Could the
      paper be the 'washi' they sell for calligraphy? I have a roll of it.

      Klaus

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Yama Kaminari no Date Saburou Yukiie" <kabuto@...>
      To: <sca-jml@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2003 00:12
      Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Paper on plate?


      > Klaus,
      > The surface of the plate or scale is "keyed" with a rough file or
      > abrasive, then a coating of lacquer is applied as an adhesive. The
      > paper (usually a mulbery paper, if I am not mistaken) is put down on
      > this when the lacquer is still wet, forming a bond. It is then given
      > another thin coat of wet lacquer.
      > When all is dry, the lacquer is reenforced with the paper, like rebarb
      > reenforces concrete. That is polished to a smooth finish, and several
      > more coats of lacquer are applied, letting each dry, and polishing
      > before application. The final coats of lacquer had carbon, or other
      > colorings added, even including powdered metals, such as silver or
      > gold filings,possibly finished off with a coating of clear lacquer to
      > give a deapth to the sheen.
      > This is how I understand the process.
      > Humidity was always a problem during the drying period, and could
      > cloud or alter the finish, and effect the hardness.
      >
      > PS. I like your web site!
      >
      > Date Saburou Yukiie
      > Shi wa hei to de aru - all are equal in the grave
      > http://www.kabutographics.com
      > kabuto@...
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "Marko Peussa" <marko.peussa@k...> wrote:
      > > Hello,
      > >
      > > It was mentioned by one of my kyudo teachers that Japanese armor
      > > plates could be first covered by (Japanese) paper and then lacquered.
      > > Any ideas how this was done?
      > >
      > > Apparently the previous headmaster of our Ryu used this tehcnique for
      > > his armor. Asking him about it is a little bit difficult because he
      > > passed away few years ago.
      > >
      > > Regards,
      > >
      > > Klaus
      >
      >
      >
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    • Yama Kaminari no Date Saburou Yukiie
      ... At some ... Klaus, I have tried using that type of paper, with some success, but I have also used successive coats of modern lacquer paint without it, with
      Message 2 of 4 , May 1, 2003
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        > Thanks for the info, I think the roughing step is quite important.
        At some
        > time I'm going to try it out with modern black lacquer paint. Could the
        > paper be the 'washi' they sell for calligraphy? I have a roll of it.
        >
        > Klaus

        Klaus,
        I have tried using that type of paper, with some success, but I have
        also used successive coats of modern lacquer paint without it, with
        similar success.
        With the right primer coating, and enough layers, and proper drying
        times, and lack of moisture...The modern lacquer paint works well
        enough for most things, but it does look slightly different from
        traditional lacquer.
        I have found that after all of that, if I give the finished piece one
        or two coats of a polyurethane Varnish, over the black, that an
        interesting depth is built up, which to my eye lookes better than just
        the paint.
        I use a wood stain polyurethane varnish, whick is slightly caramel in
        color. I think the combo looks great, and adds to the structural
        integrity of the scales and plates a small bit. You don't really see
        the caramel color much, but it makes the black look richer.
        I also tend to think that the slightly elastic but weatherproof
        surface may protect the lacquer below...but make sure that the
        primers/paper are dry and secure, or the chipping can be a nightmare
        (just like it was in period!)
        I also use this technique for the ebira I make (which you have seen
        photos of.)
        One last word...be carefull when it is time to lace...the friction of
        what ever lacing you might use tends to heat up and wear down the
        coating near the holes. This is not so bad, but it can muddy up bright
        color lacing pretty fast. By using shorter lengths of lacing (do not
        try to lace your whole harness with one long piece of odoshi!) this
        can be controlled somewhat.

        Hope that helps some.

        Date-


        Date Saburou Yukiie
        Shi wa hei to de aru - all are equal in the grave
        http://www.kabutographics.com
        kabuto@...
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