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what to do when making Uchikake?

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  • skyscraperpriestess
    I am eventually planning to make an Uchikake for myself, and was wondering what the best course of action would be. I have two options right now. The first is
    Message 1 of 5 , Oct 5, 2002
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      I am eventually planning to make an Uchikake for myself, and was
      wondering what the best course of action would be. I have two options
      right now.
      The first is this- my local fabric store is selling some lovely
      chinese brocade- black, with dragons all over. I was thinking this
      might look pretty close to real. I cannot find Japanese brocades here,
      chinese is the closest I can get. Buying online is NOT an option for
      me at this time, so I must do my best with what is available.

      This is the second option- buy straight black brocade or heavy satin,
      and then proceed to embroider and applique the designs on myself. This
      would be cheaper, actually, but more labour intensive. It also allows
      me to have a few larger beasties all over the thing- I was thinking of
      cranes and dragons, with some smaller floral motifs as well. Perhaps
      two or three dragons around the hem, and a large crane design on the
      upper back..not sure about the sleeves, would those have decoration on
      both sides or just the backs?

      So what do you guys think would produce a better result?
    • Ii Saburou
      Well, I think that the second option would definitely allow you to have more freedom and to come up with a nice design, and probably be cheaper financially.
      Message 2 of 5 , Oct 5, 2002
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        Well, I think that the second option would definitely allow you to have
        more freedom and to come up with a nice design, and probably be cheaper
        financially. However, it will definitely be more time consuming.
        Something else to tink of is to do something in-between--either a brocade
        that you further embroider (not sure how well that would work), or silk
        that you dye (or get dyed) into a pattern, and then embroider beyond that.

        Either way, I think it will look great.

        -Ii

        On Sat, 5 Oct 2002, skyscraperpriestess wrote:

        > I am eventually planning to make an Uchikake for myself, and was
        > wondering what the best course of action would be. I have two options
        > right now.
        > The first is this- my local fabric store is selling some lovely
        > chinese brocade- black, with dragons all over. I was thinking this
        > might look pretty close to real. I cannot find Japanese brocades here,
        > chinese is the closest I can get. Buying online is NOT an option for
        > me at this time, so I must do my best with what is available.
        >
        > This is the second option- buy straight black brocade or heavy satin,
        > and then proceed to embroider and applique the designs on myself. This
        > would be cheaper, actually, but more labour intensive. It also allows
        > me to have a few larger beasties all over the thing- I was thinking of
        > cranes and dragons, with some smaller floral motifs as well. Perhaps
        > two or three dragons around the hem, and a large crane design on the
        > upper back..not sure about the sleeves, would those have decoration on
        > both sides or just the backs?
        >
        > So what do you guys think would produce a better result?
        >
        >
        >
        >
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        >
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        >
        >
      • ELAINE KOOGLER
        To be honest, I d go with the latter...sounds like it would be absolutely lovely, and would be your very own design. Another note: depending on how the colors
        Message 3 of 5 , Oct 7, 2002
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          To be honest, I'd go with the latter...sounds like it would be
          absolutely lovely, and would be your very own design. Another note:
          depending on how the colors work in the piece you describe as having
          dragons on it, you could potentially do an embroidered sort of thing on
          that as well. I personally love doing applique, but my research tells
          me that it wasn't done very often...however I have found some
          references to the technique in period...in fact one reference cites
          some Haniwa figures as having a design on the garment that looks like
          applique!

          Kiri



          ----- Original Message -----
          From: skyscraperpriestess <rjb@...>
          Date: Saturday, October 5, 2002 11:56 am
          Subject: [SCA-JML] what to do when making Uchikake?

          > <span><p><span><p>
          >
          >
          > <tt>
          > I am eventually planning to make an Uchikake for myself, and was
          >
          > wondering what the best course of action would be. I have two
          > options
          >
          > right now.
          >
          > The first is this- my local fabric store is selling some lovely
          >
          > chinese brocade- black, with dragons all over. I was thinking this
          >
          > might look pretty close to real. I cannot find Japanese brocades
          > here,
          >
          > chinese is the closest I can get. Buying online is NOT an option
          > for
          >
          > me at this time, so I must do my best with what is available.
          >
          >
          >
          > This is the second option- buy straight black brocade or heavy
          > satin,
          >
          > and then proceed to embroider and applique the designs on myself.
          > This
          >
          > would be cheaper, actually, but more labour intensive. It also
          > allows
          >
          > me to have a few larger beasties all over the thing- I was
          > thinking of
          >
          > cranes and dragons, with some smaller floral motifs as well.
          > Perhaps
          >
          > two or three dragons around the hem, and a large crane design on
          > the
          >
          > upper back..not sure about the sleeves, would those have
          > decoration on
          >
          > both sides or just the backs?
          >
          >
          >
          > So what do you guys think would produce a better result?
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > </tt>
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > <tt>
          > UNSUBSCRIBE: E-mail sca-jml-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > <tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
          > Service.</tt></br>
          >
          > </span></span>
          >
          >
        • Ii Saburou
          ... I have seen pictures of what appears to be applique on various jinbaori. However, I don t know if the technique would have been applied to other garments,
          Message 4 of 5 , Oct 7, 2002
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            On Mon, 7 Oct 2002, ELAINE KOOGLER wrote:

            > To be honest, I'd go with the latter...sounds like it would be
            > absolutely lovely, and would be your very own design. Another note:
            > depending on how the colors work in the piece you describe as having
            > dragons on it, you could potentially do an embroidered sort of thing on
            > that as well. I personally love doing applique, but my research tells
            > me that it wasn't done very often...however I have found some
            > references to the technique in period...in fact one reference cites
            > some Haniwa figures as having a design on the garment that looks like
            > applique!
            >
            I have seen pictures of what appears to be applique on various jinbaori.
            However, I don't know if the technique would have been applied to other
            garments, jinbaori being somewhat special, it would seem.

            -Ii
          • makiwara_no_yetsuko
            ... options ... here, ... Is black a color that would ve been worn by a lady and if so, in what period(s), and for what occasions or seasons? I m curious. ;-
            Message 5 of 5 , Oct 9, 2002
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              --- In sca-jml@y..., "skyscraperpriestess" <rjb@n...> wrote:
              > I am eventually planning to make an Uchikake for myself, and was
              > wondering what the best course of action would be. I have two
              options
              > right now.
              > The first is this- my local fabric store is selling some lovely
              > chinese brocade- black, with dragons all over. I was thinking this
              > might look pretty close to real. I cannot find Japanese brocades
              here,
              > chinese is the closest I can get.

              Is black a color that would've been worn by a lady and if so, in what
              period(s), and for what occasions or seasons? I'm curious. ;->

              I'm starting work on a Heian uchiki in kuchiba ("dead leaf" yellow),
              to be ornamented with block printing, because $12 a yard for 29 inch
              wide rayon brocade is not in my budget! The outfit is inspired by
              one I saw at the website for the Kyoto costume museum.

              (http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/wayou/index.htm Click on the
              Heian period and pick the 7th costume down, a court lady in informal
              winter dress.)

              If I pull it off, I'll post photos of the results.

              Makiwara no Yetsuko
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