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Re: [SCA-JML] desperately seeking help

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  • Jay Trease
    Thank you thank you! I m a bit frazzled at the moment from fretting over upcoming demo and event stuff. So, my addled brain hasn t fully processed through
    Message 1 of 6 , Jan 22 7:50 PM
      Thank you thank you! I'm a bit frazzled at the moment
      from fretting over upcoming demo and event stuff. So,
      my addled brain hasn't fully processed through all the
      info. I think, though, this should help me get this
      project finished. Thank you so much.

      Gryphon

      --- Ii Saburou <logan@...> wrote:
      > The collar that I did for my noushi was based off of
      > what I found in
      > "Jidai Ishou no Nuikata". A while ago I started a
      > project--
      >
      http://modzer0.cs.uaf.edu/~logan/JapaneseHistory/clothes/sokutai/
      > --which
      > Ihave yet to complete. However, on page 2 of my
      > diagrams, figure 8
      >
      (http://modzer0.cs.uaf.edu/~logan/JapaneseHistory/clothes/sokutai/page2.jpg)
      >
      > shows the general pattern for the collar. Now, I
      > did this figure awhile
      > ago, but the measurements don't look too off.
      >
      > The whole thing should be several layers of
      > something relatively stiff. I
      > used several layers of starched organza silk for the
      > base; a stiffener of
      > some sort would probably work, also.
      >
      > This base attaches around the collar. Figure 7
      > actually shows the shape
      > of the okumi (the edge of the front pieces) as I
      > made mine from "Jidai
      > Ishou no Nuikata"--for simplicity's sake I don't
      > think this is necessary
      > but it seems to help it to fall better, I think.
      >
      > The stiff base is covered with a long rectangle of
      > silk, which should be
      > the same as the rest of your garment.
      >
      > The round bit at one end is actually the knot of the
      > frog, the other side
      > shows the loop to accept and hold the knot. The
      > knot should be put on
      > before you finish sewing the rectangle of silk over,
      > on the inside, I
      > believe. I could be wrong, but that seems the
      > cleanest. The knot that
      > they use is shown in the book as a 'shaka musubi' or
      > Buddha's knot.
      >
      > Picture:
      > http://www.i-kimono.com/lib/kumihimo/himo8-b.jpg
      > Instructions:
      >
      http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/jisaku.html
      > (This also has some instructions on making the
      > noushi or kariginu as
      > well).
      >
      > The other side is just a twisted cord, sewn onto the
      > garment at wherever
      > it needs to be so that the collar closes properly
      > (should be at the
      > shoulder, although I wuld move it up or down a few
      > inches as needed--this
      > is also controlled by the length of cord you use).
      >
      > I am not sure how to get the cord to stay twisted,
      > however. I'm not sure
      > if you need to take and twist the cord yourself,
      > leaving just a small bit,
      > or if you had to constantly retwist to help it hold
      > the knot better. I do
      > know that if this is too big or too loose, you will
      > lose the knot, which
      > can be somewhat embarassing.
      >
      > Now, there is one problem I have found, and that has
      > to do with the inside
      > okumi. It doesn't seem to attach anywhere, so it
      > needs to just hang, and
      > if it doesn't hang nicely, then it could fall open
      > on you. I'm still
      > trying to figure out this mystery; some people have
      > suggested putting a
      > second knot on the inside of the collar (you can
      > also hide a button and
      > button hole; button should face inwards). I haven't
      > seen this done, so I
      > am hoping to complete all the layers and see if
      > maybe it has to do with
      > what I was wearing underneath, or perhaps I need to
      > tighten up the frog.
      > I'm just knot sure.
      >
      > Anyway, I hope that helps some.
      >
      > -Ii
      >
      >


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