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Noushi experience

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  • Ii Saburou
    Well, this Saturday I actually tried out the new noushi I have been working on at Atlantia s .xii. Night, and I thought some people might be interested in how
    Message 1 of 5 , Jan 6, 2002
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      Well, this Saturday I actually tried out the new noushi I have been
      working on at Atlantia's .xii. Night, and I thought some people might be
      interested in how it went.

      First of all, let me explain the noushi.

      (For some photos of what a noushi _should_ look like and more of an
      explanation of its use, I recommend Baron Edward of Effingham's pages:

      http://www.geocities.com/sengokudaimyo/garb/garbphotos/noshi2frontL.jpg
      http://www.geocities.com/sengokudaimyo/garb/garbphotos/noshi2frontL.jpg
      http://www.geocities.com/sengokudaimyo/garb/Garb.html )

      I made the noushi following the patterns laid out in "Jidai Ishou no
      Nuikata", a wonderful source for patterns of historical Japanese clothing.
      Due to my height (6'2") I had to lengthen the garment some from the
      patterns in the book, which tended to be drawn for someone smaller
      (especially in the case of reproductions of apparently extant garments,
      which some of them appear to be). Although I attempted to lengthen it by
      about 10%, I found that this was too long, it seemed. In extant
      paintings, a standing noble seems to have the ran (the large, wide, winged
      hem on the bottom of the garment) coming to a point somewhere between the
      wearer's knees and ankles, being high enough that one can see the
      sashinuki underneath and get an idea of the fabric as well.

      The garment was lined, with both the inner and outer layers being made of
      a heavy organza. The outer fabric was white, while the inner fabric was
      dyed blue, using a modern acid dye from Jacquard Products (actually, both
      silk and dye came from Jacquard Products--www.silkconnection.com). It was
      all handsewn with silk thread.

      The collar is stiffened with extra layers of organza silk, using some of
      the excess, although the pattern seemed to call of several layers of stiff
      paper. The cord for the frog clasp on the collar is not silk; although
      after trying it ther other night, I think I may remove it in favor of a
      silk cord. The cord is knotted in accordance with the directions given in
      "Jidai Ishou no Nuikata".

      Wearing the garment proved an interesting experience, different from my
      practice piece (http://modzer0.cs.uaf.edu/~logan/pictures/JUL0306.JPG and
      http://modzer0.cs.uaf.edu/~logan/pictures/JUL0308.JPG)* which was made
      with a convenient $0.99/yd patterned polyester fabric. On that piece,
      although a 'cheater button' was installed on the inside of the collar to
      help keep the right side from drooping, I didn't find that it was
      necessary (nor was it called for in the pattern). However, with only one
      frog on this garment, I found I had problems with the other side slipping,
      requiring me to pin it up for the evening. I am trying to figure out
      whether this was a flaw in my construction, a flaw in the pattern, or
      whether I need to adjust the placement of the frog, somehow. Perhaps if I
      tightened the frog some, it would hold up slightly better. I am also
      wondering if it required more of the undergarments to be worn.

      Which brings me to my next point. For the undergarments I had made a
      quick hitoe out of habotai silk. I have not yet made the akome or the
      sashinuki; in place of the latter I wore an under hakama of silk with a
      yoroi hakama of linen-look fabric; the ties that close at the legs give at
      least a better impression of sashinuki than otherwise, but this was still
      just a temporary fix.

      To complete the outfit I tried my hand at a tate-eboshi, but I had
      problems in stiffening it properly. I really need to find some way to
      lacquer it, I believe. Failing that I think I either have the option of
      using tonnes of starch or else I can cheat with an inner stiffener of some
      kind. Regardless of my solution, the had needs to be resewn some anyway.

      All in all, the garment went well, but does have problems at an sca event
      of this nature because it was not made for things such as chairs, and it
      it takes a while to get used to being aware of the paunch created by the
      noushi ballooning out in front of you, especially when doing things like
      eating.

      I have some pictures, and they will be up as soon as possible (just have
      to take more pictures and finish off the roll--still using one of those
      old fashioned 'film' cameras ;) )

      -Ii


      *Yes, I know I shouldn't be wearing a kanmuri with a noushi, but I didn't
      really know that yet at the time.
    • andreahg2000
      ... might be ... I m so sorry I missed you. I would have loved to see some beautiful Japanese clothes. We got there just in time to play with the seige
      Message 2 of 5 , Jan 6, 2002
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        --- In sca-jml@y..., Ii Saburou <logan@m...> wrote:
        > Well, this Saturday I actually tried out the new noushi I have been
        > working on at Atlantia's .xii. Night, and I thought some people
        might be
        > interested in how it went.
        >

        I'm so sorry I missed you. I would have loved to see some beautiful
        Japanese clothes. We got there just in time to play with the seige
        engines, then do a shift at our Shire's fundraising merchant table
        until court. Please post the pictures when you can!

        Nadeshiko
      • Elaine Koogler
        You know, I saw you at Twelfth Night...your outfit looked great! I thought that might be you, but wasn t sure...and every time I started to come over and
        Message 3 of 5 , Jan 7, 2002
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          You know, I saw you at Twelfth Night...your outfit looked great!  I thought that might be you, but wasn't sure...and every time I started to come over and introduce myself, something else "flew loose"...it was a VERY busy day.  When you run an event, even when your staff is really great, you just don't get to do all the stuff you want to do!!  I didn't even get to check out the merchants.   (I was the very busy person with the red and white sideless surcoat running around like a headless chicken!)
           
          But hopefully, I'll see you at a future event and can chat with you then.   Thanks for coming....hope you enjoyed yourself!!
           
          Kiri
           
           
           
           -----Original Message-----
          From: Ii Saburou [mailto:logan@...]
          Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 11:54 AM
          To: authentic_sca@yahoogroups.com; sca-jml@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [SCA-JML] Noushi experience

          Well, this Saturday I actually tried out the new noushi I have been
          working on at Atlantia's .xii. Night, and I thought some people might be
          interested in how it went.

          First of all, let me explain the noushi. 

          (For some photos of what a noushi _should_ look like and more of an
          explanation of its use, I recommend Baron Edward of Effingham's pages:
               
          http://www.geocities.com/sengokudaimyo/garb/garbphotos/noshi2frontL.jpg
          http://www.geocities.com/sengokudaimyo/garb/garbphotos/noshi2frontL.jpg
          http://www.geocities.com/sengokudaimyo/garb/Garb.html )

          I made the noushi following the patterns laid out in "Jidai Ishou no
          Nuikata", a wonderful source for patterns of historical Japanese clothing. 
          Due to my height (6'2") I had to lengthen the garment some from the
          patterns in the book, which tended to be drawn for someone smaller
          (especially in the case of reproductions of apparently extant garments,
          which some of them appear to be).  Although I attempted to lengthen it by
          about 10%, I found that this was too long, it seemed.  In extant
          paintings, a standing noble seems to have the ran (the large, wide, winged
          hem on the bottom of the garment) coming to a point somewhere between the
          wearer's knees and ankles, being high enough that one can see the
          sashinuki underneath and get an idea of the fabric as well.

          The garment was lined, with both the inner and outer layers being made of
          a heavy organza.  The outer fabric was white, while the inner fabric was
          dyed blue, using a modern acid dye from Jacquard Products (actually, both
          silk and dye came from Jacquard Products--www.silkconnection.com).  It was
          all handsewn with silk thread.

          The collar is stiffened with extra layers of organza silk, using some of
          the excess, although the pattern seemed to call of several layers of stiff
          paper.  The cord for the frog clasp on the collar is not silk; although
          after trying it ther other night, I think I may remove it in favor of a
          silk cord.  The cord is knotted in accordance with the directions given in
          "Jidai Ishou no Nuikata".

          Wearing the garment proved an interesting experience, different from my
          practice piece (http://modzer0.cs.uaf.edu/~logan/pictures/JUL0306.JPG and
          http://modzer0.cs.uaf.edu/~logan/pictures/JUL0308.JPG)* which was made
          with a convenient $0.99/yd patterned polyester fabric.  On that piece,
          although a 'cheater button' was installed on the inside of the collar to
          help keep the right side from drooping, I didn't find that it was
          necessary (nor was it called for in the pattern).  However, with only one
          frog on this garment, I found I had problems with the other side slipping,
          requiring me to pin it up for the evening.  I am trying to figure out
          whether this was a flaw in my construction, a flaw in the pattern, or
          whether I need to adjust the placement of the frog, somehow.  Perhaps if I
          tightened the frog some, it would hold up slightly better.  I am also
          wondering if it required more of the undergarments to be worn.

          Which brings me to my next point.  For the undergarments I had made a
          quick hitoe out of habotai silk.  I have not yet made the akome or the
          sashinuki; in place of the latter I wore an under hakama of silk with a
          yoroi hakama of linen-look fabric; the ties that close at the legs give at
          least a better impression of sashinuki than otherwise, but this was still
          just a temporary fix.

          To complete the outfit I tried my hand at a tate-eboshi, but I had
          problems in stiffening it properly.  I really need to find some way to
          lacquer it, I believe.  Failing that I think I either have the option of
          using tonnes of starch or else I can cheat with an inner stiffener of some
          kind.  Regardless of my solution, the had needs to be resewn some anyway.

          All in all, the garment went well, but does have problems at an sca event
          of this nature because it was not made for things such as chairs, and it
          it takes a while to get used to being aware of the paunch created by the
          noushi ballooning out in front of you, especially when doing things like
          eating.

          I have some pictures, and they will be up as soon as possible (just have
          to take more pictures and finish off the roll--still using one of those
          old fashioned 'film' cameras ;) )

          -Ii


          *Yes, I know I shouldn't be wearing a kanmuri with a noushi, but I didn't
          really know that yet at the time.



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        • Ii Saburou
          ... Oh I did, and I kept meaning to find you as well. Sigh, such is life. Someday we will come to the slopes of Afusaka*. I usually gravitate towards herald s
          Message 4 of 5 , Jan 7, 2002
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            On Mon, 7 Jan 2002, Elaine Koogler wrote:

            > You know, I saw you at Twelfth Night...your outfit looked great! I thought
            > that might be you, but wasn't sure...and every time I started to come over
            > and introduce myself, something else "flew loose"...it was a VERY busy day.
            > When you run an event, even when your staff is really great, you just don't
            > get to do all the stuff you want to do!! I didn't even get to check out the
            > merchants. (I was the very busy person with the red and white sideless
            > surcoat running around like a headless chicken!)
            >
            > But hopefully, I'll see you at a future event and can chat with you then.
            > Thanks for coming....hope you enjoyed yourself!!

            Oh I did, and I kept meaning to find you as well. Sigh, such is life.
            Someday we will come to the slopes of Afusaka*.

            I usually gravitate towards herald's point if I'm not fighting or offering
            to help in the kitchen (unfortunately a noushi is hardly 'kitchen work'
            garb or I would have offered).

            -Ii
          • Elaine Koogler
            I m glad you enjoyed yourself and hope you ll come to visit us in Dun Carraig again! We are having our next event on April 13, and it will involve some very
            Message 5 of 5 , Jan 8, 2002
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              I'm glad you enjoyed yourself and hope you'll come to visit us in Dun Carraig again!  We are having our next event on April 13, and it will involve some very interesting rapier and heavy scenarios, along with archery and, I think, thrown weapons.  My brand new apprentice and her fiance will be doing the feast, which will have an English theme.
               
              Kiri
              -----Original Message-----
              From: Ii Saburou [mailto:logan@...]
              Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 5:44 PM
              To: sca-jml@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [SCA-JML] Noushi experience

              On Mon, 7 Jan 2002, Elaine Koogler wrote:

              > You know, I saw you at Twelfth Night...your outfit looked great!  I thought
              > that might be you, but wasn't sure...and every time I started to come over
              > and introduce myself, something else "flew loose"...it was a VERY busy day.
              > When you run an event, even when your staff is really great, you just don't
              > get to do all the stuff you want to do!!  I didn't even get to check out the
              > merchants.   (I was the very busy person with the red and white sideless
              > surcoat running around like a headless chicken!)
              >
              > But hopefully, I'll see you at a future event and can chat with you then.
              > Thanks for coming....hope you enjoyed yourself!!

              Oh I did, and I kept meaning to find you as well.  Sigh, such is life. 
              Someday we will come to the slopes of Afusaka*.

              I usually gravitate towards herald's point if I'm not fighting or offering
              to help in the kitchen (unfortunately a noushi is hardly 'kitchen work'
              garb or I would have offered).

              -Ii



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