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Re: [SCA-JML] Late Heian Men's Clothing & "Jidai Ishou no Nuikata" Patterns

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  • Anthony J. Bryant
    ... Bingo. (Bungo? Echizen?) ... That first one represents Yoshitsune in his first encounter with Benkei on the Go-jo Bridge. ... Fair warning: kikutoji are
    Message 1 of 7 , May 1 6:42 AM
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      "J. Badgley" wrote:

      >
      > From the way I read it, it seems as though one should only need to adjust
      > the measurements to create the proper garment.
      >

      Bingo. (Bungo? Echizen?)

      >
      > Looking at the Kyoto Costume Museum's web site (you can find the links in
      > the bookmarks section of the yahoo!groups page) I found that pattern used
      > in two places, apparently:
      >
      > http://www.iz2.or.jp/fukusyoku/wayou/47.htm
      > http://www.iz2.or.jp/fukusyoku/wayou/49.htm
      >
      > The first appears to be wearing the sashinuki as well; it is a young
      > child, it seems, but I don't know that this has any bearing on the pattern
      > other than size.
      >

      That first one represents Yoshitsune in his first encounter with Benkei on the Go-jo Bridge.

      >
      > I did notice the kikutouji (poms) on other, adult suikan as well.
      >

      Fair warning: kikutoji are flat, not true pompoms. Just so people don't get confused. <G>

      > Not sure, but 'kuzufu' is grass cloth and 'katsui' is a thin, coarse hemp
      > kimono (katsu being another pronunciation of 'kuzu') so I would think it
      > might be referring to the fabric used in the sashinuki. Anoyone else know
      > better?

      It's a type of linen.


      Effingham
    • Anthony J. Bryant
      ... A word of warning: the word hitoe is like the word shirt -- it applies to several different garments. In terms of men s clothing, a hitoe is
      Message 2 of 7 , May 1 8:16 AM
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        Kass McGann wrote:

        > I don't know if "several" kosode are worn. Remember that this is not
        > a formal outfit. I would wear a white kosode, a red or white hitoe
        > (just cut a little larger than the kosode), and sashinuki hakama in a
        > contrasting colour (unless you want to portray a servant, and then
        > it's all white). You can use the pattern in the files section here
        > for the hakama.

        A word of warning: the word "hitoe" is like the word "shirt" -- it
        applies to several different garments. In terms of men's clothing, a
        hitoe is mid-length, open-sided, big-sleeved, unlined, stiff, robe worn
        under formal coats like the ho and kariginu; it wouldn't be worn with a
        suikan that I can imagine. You're probably thinking "hitoe" in terms of
        unlined robe thing... it's a girl thing, no? <G>

        Effingham
      • Kass McGann
        A word of warning: the word hitoe is like the word shirt -- it applies to several different garments. In terms of men s clothing, a hitoe is mid-length,
        Message 3 of 7 , May 1 11:37 AM
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          A word of warning: the word "hitoe" is like the word "shirt" -- it
          applies to several different garments. In terms of men's clothing, a
          hitoe is mid-length, open-sided, big-sleeved, unlined, stiff, robe worn
          under formal coats like the ho and kariginu; it wouldn't be worn with a
          suikan that I can imagine. You're probably thinking "hitoe" in terms of
          unlined robe thing... it's a girl thing, no? <G>
          >>>>>
          Well, like, duh!  I'm just a girl...  ;)
           
          So "hitoe" doesn't always mean "singlet"?  It actually has more meaning than that when referring to a male garment?  News to me.  I believe you.  You know male stuff isn't my gig...
           
          Kass
          aka Fujiwara no Aoi
        • Barbara Nostrand
          Noble Cousin! Greetings from Solveig! ... Yes. And make the garment bigger than you think it should be unless of course you already know what you are doing.
          Message 4 of 7 , May 1 3:23 PM
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            Noble Cousin!

            Greetings from Solveig!

            > > From the way I read it, it seems as though one should only need to adjust
            >> the measurements to create the proper garment.
            >>
            >
            >Bingo. (Bungo? Echizen?)

            Yes. And make the garment bigger than you think it should be unless
            of course you already know what you are doing. Basically, Japanese
            garments are not "fitted" they are adjusted to the body each time
            they are put on.

            I checked out the "pom poms" and they do appear on adult garments
            as well. The only things you need worry about are size and color
            choice.

            Your Humble Servant
            Solveig Throndardottir
            Amateur Scholar
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          • C. J. Wallace
            ... Okay, I see. Thank you for your help. Sincerely, Christopher Wallace
            Message 5 of 7 , May 2 11:01 AM
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              > Yes. And make the garment bigger than you think it should be unless
              > of course you already know what you are doing. Basically, Japanese
              > garments are not "fitted" they are adjusted to the body each time
              > they are put on.
              >
              > I checked out the "pom poms" and they do appear on adult garments
              > as well. The only things you need worry about are size and color
              > choice.

              Okay, I see. Thank you for your help.

              Sincerely,

              Christopher Wallace
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