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Garb files questions

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  • J. Badgley
    I have some questions on the garb patterns that I ve seen. Mainly, they arise because of differences between those patterns and what I have seen elsewhere,
    Message 1 of 2 , Apr 3, 2001
      I have some questions on the garb patterns that I've seen. Mainly, they
      arise because of differences between those patterns and what I have seen
      elsewhere, and I want to understand what is happening.

      The garments I have patterns for seem to usually be one panel per side,
      with the same width for the back and the front; in the hitatare designs,
      the front is smaller by about 7" (about 1/3 of the width). Furthermore,
      the collar doesn't seem to come across quite as far, leaving it somewhat
      open in the front.

      Is this a feature of the hitatare--or later Japanese clothing in
      general--that has this 'cut out', for lack of a better term? Also, how
      would you suggest desigining a kosode for under the hitatare--or would a
      hitoe be better? What are the major differences between a hitoe and the
      kosode?

      I would greatly appreciate any help along the path to enlightenment.

      -Ii
    • Anthony J. Bryant
      ... The open collar is *the* distict feature of the hitatare. So much so that the suikan (worn with the collar closed, like a kariginu) when worn with the
      Message 2 of 2 , Apr 3, 2001
        "J. Badgley" wrote:

        > I have some questions on the garb patterns that I've seen. Mainly, they
        > arise because of differences between those patterns and what I have seen
        > elsewhere, and I want to understand what is happening.
        >
        > The garments I have patterns for seem to usually be one panel per side,
        > with the same width for the back and the front; in the hitatare designs,
        > the front is smaller by about 7" (about 1/3 of the width). Furthermore,
        > the collar doesn't seem to come across quite as far, leaving it somewhat
        > open in the front.
        >
        > Is this a feature of the hitatare--or later Japanese clothing in
        > general--that has this 'cut out', for lack of a better term?

        The open collar is *the* distict feature of the hitatare. So much so that
        the suikan (worn with the collar closed, like a kariginu) when worn with the
        collar open and tied down was sometimes termed "hitatare no suikan".

        > Also, how
        > would you suggest desigining a kosode for under the hitatare--or would a
        > hitoe be better? What are the major differences between a hitoe and the
        > kosode?
        >

        Sometimes both terms are used for the similar things. Hitoe literally means
        "one layer" though, and that's one distinguishing feature (no linings). In
        historiographical terms, the hitoe is a formal undergarment worn with
        kariginu (sometimes) and with sokutai (all the time). It's open at the
        sides, has HUGE sleeves, and is short (about butt-length), and worn over the
        kosode but under the kariginu or ho.

        Technically, you don't wear a hitoe with a hitatare.


        Effingham
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