I can say without a doubt that you don't want silk charmeuse (yes, I tried it. It is now comfy pj's but not stiff or full enough for the uchigi I had planned.)
I agree with Saionji san about the Dupioni. In my research on the subject, you just can't get period woven fabric commercially, and Dupioni is the next closest thing. If this is your kosode, and may be the layer touching your skin, make sure you can stand the texture of it (I, personally, can't) So I found other options. This site is very helpful for looking at the weave of period fabric:
On this site, you can zoom so close you can actually see the weaves on period clothing!
I found it very useful to look at, before deciding on my own fabrics.
Hojo no Ritsuko
--- In email@example.com, <wodeford@...> wrote:If you're not sure what you want, get their swatch set first. It'll give you an idea of what the various weights are like.
Habotai is very drapy and you'll need to starch the crap out of it to give it any body, possibly even line it. Even the 16mm is very "blousy."
Dupioni, while somewhat slubby, at least has some decent body to it. I've used that for outer garments in the past with some success. It's also very paintable, though you may experience tiny bleeds along slubs.
Silk satin is great, but pricy.
Avoid noil if you can. It's cheap and takes dye as well as any other silk, but it has a tendency to pill with wear. It also sometimes has a faint odor.
(I usually prefer linen for anything close to the skin, because it breathes well and can be laundered safely. It's also a reasonable substitute for hemp.)
Hope this helps!
Saionji no Hana, OL, West