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Re: Layers of Momoyama period men's garments

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  • Ishiyama Gen'tarou Yori'ie
    ... This is what makes it a kataginu kamishimo , when the kataginu and hakama are made from the same fabric. I have seen it written that to have the kataginu
    Message 1 of 3 , Jan 6, 2013
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      wildcrimsonsky wrote:
      > In most examples the Hakama and Kataginu match,

      This is what makes it a "kataginu kamishimo", when the kataginu and
      hakama are made from the same fabric.

      I have seen it written that to have the kataginu different from the
      hakama is often a sign of servitude. (I don't have a good reference
      for this, however.) That is, the kataginu would be of your master's
      livery. I have made special kataginu with the badges of my local
      kingdom and barony that I wear when I am acting in some official
      capacity like retaining, guarding, or processing.

      > Am I seeing things? What is the middle layer garment? Is it a Hitatare?

      In most cases, this is another kosode layer. The base later, often
      referred to as a "juban", is always white as you note. The juban and
      kosode have the same shape, as far as I know. I try to cut my colored
      or patterned kosode a little larger so they fit over the juban
      without binding.

      --
      THL Ishiyama Gen'tarou Yori'ie
      (mka: Elliott C. Evans)
      ishiyama@...
    • wildcrimsonsky
      Excellent, thank you. It is as I suspected and another Kosode layer slightly larger would match the illustrations. I also found that an Eri sugata or fake
      Message 2 of 3 , Jan 6, 2013
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        Excellent, thank you. It is as I suspected and another Kosode layer slightly larger would match the illustrations. I also found that an Eri sugata or fake collar can be used to avoid to many layers. This would be a good idea during the Georgia summer heat.

        Thank you for the info.

        Best Regards,
        Sven Larsson
        (Eyler Larson)

        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, Ishiyama Gen'tarou Yori'ie wrote:
        >
        >
        > wildcrimsonsky wrote:
        > > In most examples the Hakama and Kataginu match,
        >
        > This is what makes it a "kataginu kamishimo", when the kataginu and
        > hakama are made from the same fabric.
        >
        > I have seen it written that to have the kataginu different from the
        > hakama is often a sign of servitude. (I don't have a good reference
        > for this, however.) That is, the kataginu would be of your master's
        > livery. I have made special kataginu with the badges of my local
        > kingdom and barony that I wear when I am acting in some official
        > capacity like retaining, guarding, or processing.
        >
        > > Am I seeing things? What is the middle layer garment? Is it a Hitatare?
        >
        > In most cases, this is another kosode layer. The base later, often
        > referred to as a "juban", is always white as you note. The juban and
        > kosode have the same shape, as far as I know. I try to cut my colored
        > or patterned kosode a little larger so they fit over the juban
        > without binding.
        >
        > --
        > THL Ishiyama Gen'tarou Yori'ie
        > (mka: Elliott C. Evans)
        > ishiyama@...
        >
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