## Re: gores and gussets

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• Abe-dono, where does the rectangular gusset go? Is it like where you d measure rise or is it 90 degrees opposite? Can someone post a link to a picture? Partly
Message 1 of 5 , Oct 4, 2012
Abe-dono, where does the rectangular gusset go? Is it like where you'd measure rise or is it 90 degrees opposite?

Can someone post a link to a picture?

Partly I'm curious because I know Lady Roxanne's hakama pattern includes a strip that goes ankle to ankle along the inseam. I don't know whether that's based on historical research or on making a nice looking pair of pants. (It does work out nicely.) http://www.yamakaminari.com/HowTo/RoxannesGarb/RoxanneHakama4Pennsic.pdf

Thanks!

ERIN

--- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, Ellen Badgley <flyingrat42@...> wrote:
>
> Yoinking *Jidai isshou no nuikata* off the shelf... *yoink*
>
> All of the Heian-and-later pleated *hakama *and *sashinuki *have a very
> clear square gusset a la Hiraizumi-dono's (Tony's) pattern. However, the
> earlier Nara-period reproductions (from Shoso-in examples) tend to be
> different, and at least one of those (an "undergarment") has the 3-4 inch
> "strip" at the crotch, similar to the one photographed in Honcho-Gunkiko.
> (In Nuikata, the same kanji is used for this crotch-piece as for the
> gusset in the other cases.)
>
> So, in summary, they're both period approaches, it appears.
>
> - Abe Akirakeiko
>
• The particular rectangular gusset in this case is where you d measure rise. For a parallel illustration, check out the *uwabakama *at
Message 2 of 5 , Oct 4, 2012
The particular rectangular gusset in this case is where you'd measure rise.
For a parallel illustration, check out the *uwabakama *at
http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/graphics/garbphotos/uwabakama1L.jpg.
These are the topmost set of *hakama *accompanying court garb, and they
are actually constructed of two entirely separate leg-tubes, with a
completely "loose" strip of fabric hanging between (from mid-front to
mid-back of the waist) to conceal the gap between the leg-tubes. This
sounds extreme (and exposed!) but whenever these are worn the *ho *(outer
robe) would hang down to the knees or past, plenty far enough to provide
coverage. The example from *Honcho-Gunkiko *is analogous: the strip is far
more attached, but the hakama would still have been worn under armor.

Ii-dono and I were talking about it last night and it's our impression that
wherever this "crotch-strip" (following the rise) shows up, it is to
strengthen/reinforce/cover an actual gap in the crotch (presumably for
outermost or visible tend to have the square gusset instead (if they have a
gusset at all), and show no or little clear gap between the legs if someone
is standing straight-legged.

(We've constructed hakama which end up resembling Lady Roxanne's, although
the method used to join the leg-tubes is different. I would also caution
that contrary to the wearing instructions, experience has shown it is far
better to tie the front ties before the back ties-- again, for easy access
if one has to use the restroom.)

- Abe

On Thu, Oct 4, 2012 at 1:08 PM, tupan4 <tupan4@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Abe-dono, where does the rectangular gusset go? Is it like where you'd
> measure rise or is it 90 degrees opposite?
>
> Can someone post a link to a picture?
>
> Partly I'm curious because I know Lady Roxanne's hakama pattern includes a
> strip that goes ankle to ankle along the inseam. I don't know whether
> that's based on historical research or on making a nice looking pair of
> pants. (It does work out nicely.)
> http://www.yamakaminari.com/HowTo/RoxannesGarb/RoxanneHakama4Pennsic.pdf
>
> Thanks!
>
> ERIN
>
> --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, Ellen Badgley <flyingrat42@...> wrote:
> >
> > Yoinking *Jidai isshou no nuikata* off the shelf... *yoink*
> >
> > All of the Heian-and-later pleated *hakama *and *sashinuki *have a very
>
> > clear square gusset a la Hiraizumi-dono's (Tony's) pattern. However, the
> > earlier Nara-period reproductions (from Shoso-in examples) tend to be
> > different, and at least one of those (an "undergarment") has the 3-4 inch
> > "strip" at the crotch, similar to the one photographed in Honcho-Gunkiko.
> > (In Nuikata, the same kanji is used for this crotch-piece as for the
> > gusset in the other cases.)
> >
> > So, in summary, they're both period approaches, it appears.
> >
> > - Abe Akirakeiko
> >
>
>
>

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