Re: [SCA-JML] Extant Hitatare?
- On 1/21/2012 7:38 AM, Carey G wrote:
> Anyway does anyone know if there are any extant Hitatare or Hakama from period? If so are there images online? Or maybe does anyone have any pictures they would be willing to share? I have found examples of kasode and dobuku in the online museums. I would prefer 16th century examples but any examples from period will do.There are garments from period. A number of temples have collections of
donated garments. The Shosoin Collection is the best known, and it's huge.
The Kyoto Costume Museum doesn't display period garments, it displays
reproductions. It's still good. They're excellent and painstakingly
Kass McGann still has her bibliography online.
If you have someone nearby who has Jidai Isho no Nuikata and
translations/notes it's pretty much the go-to book.
Kass has patterns for hitatare kamishimo, but they're a smidge
problematic. The hakama pattern is where the most issues are. The crotch
and "doorknob catchers" (side gaps) are shallow, and should be deeper.
They're high on me, which isn't a surprise, but they're high on my
husband too. The himo are a bit narrow. The wackiest thing is that the
hakama "bodies" (legs) are patterned to cut on the fold, but the fold is
across the leg, not down the leg (and this isn't made clear). There are
reasons for this, but a marking explaining which side of a large cut is
the waistband, and an explanation to open before cutting the crotch seam
would have made things much more clear.
Eff-sensei's patterns at
http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.ch16.html are not as
detailed, but his hakama pattern has better instructions on cutting the
crotch seam and how far up to close the side seams. It can help you
figure out the Reconstructing History patterns too.