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Re: [SCA-JML] Extant Hitatare?

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  • Andrew Trembley
    ... There are garments from period. A number of temples have collections of donated garments. The Shosoin Collection is the best known, and it s huge. The
    Message 1 of 6 , Jan 21, 2012
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      On 1/21/2012 7:38 AM, Carey G wrote:
      > Anyway does anyone know if there are any extant Hitatare or Hakama from period? If so are there images online? Or maybe does anyone have any pictures they would be willing to share? I have found examples of kasode and dobuku in the online museums. I would prefer 16th century examples but any examples from period will do.

      There are garments from period. A number of temples have collections of
      donated garments. The Shosoin Collection is the best known, and it's huge.

      The Kyoto Costume Museum doesn't display period garments, it displays
      reproductions. It's still good. They're excellent and painstakingly
      researched reproductions.
      http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/

      Kass McGann still has her bibliography online.
      http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/articles/japanese-articles/an-annotated-bibliography-of-japanese-costume-books.html

      If you have someone nearby who has Jidai Isho no Nuikata and
      translations/notes it's pretty much the go-to book.

      Kass has patterns for hitatare kamishimo, but they're a smidge
      problematic. The hakama pattern is where the most issues are. The crotch
      and "doorknob catchers" (side gaps) are shallow, and should be deeper.
      They're high on me, which isn't a surprise, but they're high on my
      husband too. The himo are a bit narrow. The wackiest thing is that the
      hakama "bodies" (legs) are patterned to cut on the fold, but the fold is
      across the leg, not down the leg (and this isn't made clear). There are
      reasons for this, but a marking explaining which side of a large cut is
      the waistband, and an explanation to open before cutting the crotch seam
      would have made things much more clear.

      Eff-sensei's patterns at
      http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.ch16.html are not as
      detailed, but his hakama pattern has better instructions on cutting the
      crotch seam and how far up to close the side seams. It can help you
      figure out the Reconstructing History patterns too.

      andy
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