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Re: Obi "rules"

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  • heiannoyukiume
    Obi were tied at the front by all women until fairly recent time periods. Around the Edo period, courtesans (called oiran or tayuu) started tying the in the
    Message 1 of 9 , Mar 10, 2010
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      Obi were tied at the front by all women until fairly recent time periods. Around the Edo period, courtesans (called oiran or tayuu) started tying the in the front, while other women started tying theirs in the back.

      This was not, as commonly speculated, because it was easier to untie that way, but because tying obi in the front was the style of that time period for married women, and courtesans were in effect "wives for a night."

      Source: "Kimono: Fashioning Culture" by Liza Dalby, The Costume Museum of Kyoto Website, various references cited at Immortal Geisha Forums

      I believe that in the Heian through Sengoku periods, front-tied obi for women were almost (if not completely) universal. I can't think of any period sources indicating a back-tied obi; perhaps Saionji-hime might have some more references about this, though, as she's more the expert on period women's fashion? :?
    • ErinK
      Ah, so I would have known this if I d made more progress on my resolution to actually READ books instead of just buy them (and look at the pictures).
      Message 2 of 9 , Mar 11, 2010
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        Ah, so I would have known this if I'd made more progress on my resolution to actually READ books instead of just buy them (and look at the pictures).

        Saionji-sensei's article (link elsewhere in the thread) is very helpful too. I think I had actually read that before, and that's why I didn't remember it being an issue.

        Thanks, everyone!

        ERIN

        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "heiannoyukiume" <whitefeatherart@...> wrote:
        >
        > Obi were tied at the front by all women until fairly recent time periods. Around the Edo period, courtesans (called oiran or tayuu) started tying the in the front, while other women started tying theirs in the back.
        >
        > This was not, as commonly speculated, because it was easier to untie that way, but because tying obi in the front was the style of that time period for married women, and courtesans were in effect "wives for a night."
        >
        > Source: "Kimono: Fashioning Culture" by Liza Dalby, The Costume Museum of Kyoto Website, various references cited at Immortal Geisha Forums
        >
      • wodeford
        ... I don t recall having seen any iconographic evidence for back-tied obi prior to 1600, however, costume designer Emi Wada may know something I don t. She
        Message 3 of 9 , Mar 11, 2010
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          --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "heiannoyukiume" <whitefeatherart@...> wrote:
          > I believe that in the Heian through Sengoku periods, front-tied obi for women were almost (if not completely) universal. I can't think of any period sources indicating a back-tied obi; perhaps Saionji-hime might have some more references about this, though, as she's more the expert on period women's fashion? :?

          I don't recall having seen any iconographic evidence for back-tied obi prior to 1600, however, costume designer Emi Wada may know something I don't. She put the female retainers in "Ran" in back-tied obi about 3" wide. This makes practical sense if one is performing tasks where dangling obi ties are going to get in one's way, but I don't know what historical evidence it's based on.

          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjyAC2ENl5I is a production video from "Ran" that shows the outfits to which I am referring.

          Saionji no Hanae
          West Kingdom
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