Re: Finishing Seams
- Most of the modern vintage unlined garments I own have are sewn with running stitch with the seam allowance folded out away from the seam line, at which point the edge of the selvage may or may not be tacked down with tiny stitches.
As most of my SCA clothing is of necessity constructed from modern Western bolt widths, I use something I refer to as "bastard French seams," doing a running stitch to form the seam, then folding the raw edges back into the seam line and binding them together at the folded edge with an overcast stitch. (This is a seam treatment that appears in medieval European textile finds, BTW.)
My dirty little secret: false seams. If the garment is supposed to have a seam in a certain spot, but I have fabric wide enough not to require it, I will fold and press the fabric along the line where the seam is supposed to be and put a line of running stitch there. For kosode, the center back seam needs to be there for it to drape correctly and give the correct appearance. I've simply cut out the steps where I would have to cut the fabric to width and then finish the seam in some way.
Saionji no Hanae