Re: Questions for Momoyama outfit
- Would taking the back panel in more at the side seams help with the not-hanging-right issue? I don't know if I have enough material to match up the print if I put in a back seam, real or false. Though I suppose if I put in a fairly teeny false seam the mismatch won't be too bad . . .
Thanks for all the answers to my questions. I hopefully have enough of the dark orange material to make a false layer at the appropriate edges of the kosode. And I thought that the obi did get wrapped at least twice, but I wanted confirmation from you far more knowledgeable gentles. :) Thanks again,
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "onewringgold" <onewringgold@...> wrote:
> By a false seam, do you mean basically taking the center of the back panel (if it's one piece) and turning it under slightly like you would a flat-felled seam? Because I must admit I've been guilty of this heresy as well, not realizing it made a difference in how the garment hangs on the body.
> Kajiyama Shinobu
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: JL Badgley
> To: email@example.com
> Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 6:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [SCA-JML] Re: Questions for Momoyama outfit
> On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 12:55 AM, wodeford <wodeford@...> wrote:
> > --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Samantha Fina" <genevra1676@> wrote:
> >> 1. How heretical would it be to leave the back of the kosode as one panel?
> > It won't hang quite right. Now, I cut kosode the way you propose sometimes and I put in a false back seam, so it hangs properly. Is there any way you can try to match your print?
> Ditto. I usually put in a false seam because it is easier than
> cutting and resewing (especially since that would require
> hemming--which they wouldn't necessarily have worried about in the
> Know that, when things were put together in period, it was not
> uncommon for there to be a small mismatch at the seam. Sometimes
> people dyed to the seam, and sometimes they just did what they could.
> I've seen some outfits where they barely worried about it.
> >> 2. Does the innermost kosode layer have to be white?
> > It usually is. Layers will show at your hem and the backs of your sleeves.
> Usually, this is correct. The difference tends to be with men and
> peasant garments (the latter because there is often only one layer at
> all, and the sleeves are usually tubular, not the classic curved
> rectangular look).
> > 3. Is the narrow obi wrapped just once or several times around the waist before being knotted in front?
> > Up to you. I find that long enough to go twice around, knot and hang to the knees works very well for me.
> I think you will find that wrapping merely once will not be as secure
> as going around the body at least twice.
- --- In email@example.com, "onewringgold" <onewringgold@...> wrote:
>My profound apologies for not responding to these sooner. I have been offline for a bit.
> By a false seam, do you mean basically taking the center of the back panel (if it's one piece) and turning it under slightly like you would a flat-felled seam?
All you need to do for a false back seam is fold the double-width back panel in half (outer side of the fabric inside of the fold) and use a line of running stitch to form the seam. The whole point is to save you from having to use a more complicated seam finishing treatment, flat-felling included.
For Genevra-hime, taking in the sides will only take in the sides of your garment. Your false back seam can use as narrow a seam allowance as you can manage to make it - mine are often a total of 5/16" sewn by hand. If you press your fold first and use a machine, you could conceivably go even narrower.
Good luck with your projects.
Saionji no Hanae