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Re: Questions for Momoyama outfit

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  • Samantha Fina
    Would taking the back panel in more at the side seams help with the not-hanging-right issue? I don t know if I have enough material to match up the print if I
    Message 1 of 6 , Apr 14, 2009
      Would taking the back panel in more at the side seams help with the not-hanging-right issue? I don't know if I have enough material to match up the print if I put in a back seam, real or false. Though I suppose if I put in a fairly teeny false seam the mismatch won't be too bad . . .

      Thanks for all the answers to my questions. I hopefully have enough of the dark orange material to make a false layer at the appropriate edges of the kosode. And I thought that the obi did get wrapped at least twice, but I wanted confirmation from you far more knowledgeable gentles. :) Thanks again,

      Genevra

      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "onewringgold" <onewringgold@...> wrote:
      >
      > By a false seam, do you mean basically taking the center of the back panel (if it's one piece) and turning it under slightly like you would a flat-felled seam? Because I must admit I've been guilty of this heresy as well, not realizing it made a difference in how the garment hangs on the body.
      >
      > Kajiyama Shinobu
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: JL Badgley
      > To: sca-jml@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 6:44 PM
      > Subject: Re: [SCA-JML] Re: Questions for Momoyama outfit
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 12:55 AM, wodeford <wodeford@...> wrote:
      > > --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "Samantha Fina" <genevra1676@> wrote:
      > >
      > >> 1. How heretical would it be to leave the back of the kosode as one panel?
      > >
      > > It won't hang quite right. Now, I cut kosode the way you propose sometimes and I put in a false back seam, so it hangs properly. Is there any way you can try to match your print?
      >
      > Ditto. I usually put in a false seam because it is easier than
      > cutting and resewing (especially since that would require
      > hemming--which they wouldn't necessarily have worried about in the
      > original).
      >
      > Know that, when things were put together in period, it was not
      > uncommon for there to be a small mismatch at the seam. Sometimes
      > people dyed to the seam, and sometimes they just did what they could.
      > I've seen some outfits where they barely worried about it.
      >
      > >> 2. Does the innermost kosode layer have to be white?
      > >
      > > It usually is. Layers will show at your hem and the backs of your sleeves.
      >
      > Usually, this is correct. The difference tends to be with men and
      > peasant garments (the latter because there is often only one layer at
      > all, and the sleeves are usually tubular, not the classic curved
      > rectangular look).
      >
      > > 3. Is the narrow obi wrapped just once or several times around the waist before being knotted in front?
      > >
      > > Up to you. I find that long enough to go twice around, knot and hang to the knees works very well for me.
      >
      > I think you will find that wrapping merely once will not be as secure
      > as going around the body at least twice.
      >
      > -Ii
    • wodeford
      ... My profound apologies for not responding to these sooner. I have been offline for a bit. All you need to do for a false back seam is fold the double-width
      Message 2 of 6 , Apr 17, 2009
        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "onewringgold" <onewringgold@...> wrote:
        >
        > By a false seam, do you mean basically taking the center of the back panel (if it's one piece) and turning it under slightly like you would a flat-felled seam?

        My profound apologies for not responding to these sooner. I have been offline for a bit.

        All you need to do for a false back seam is fold the double-width back panel in half (outer side of the fabric inside of the fold) and use a line of running stitch to form the seam. The whole point is to save you from having to use a more complicated seam finishing treatment, flat-felling included.

        For Genevra-hime, taking in the sides will only take in the sides of your garment. Your false back seam can use as narrow a seam allowance as you can manage to make it - mine are often a total of 5/16" sewn by hand. If you press your fold first and use a machine, you could conceivably go even narrower.

        Good luck with your projects.

        Saionji no Hanae
        West Kingdom
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