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Re: Heian Dyeing

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  • tatsumechan
    Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a white kosode
    Message 1 of 8 , Dec 5, 2008
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      Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
      bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
      white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
      that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
      Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?

      Tatsume
    • tatsumechan
      ... Ack! It was in the kimono that I was reading. Kosode is the other book I got from the library. I need more sleep apparently. Tatsume
      Message 2 of 8 , Dec 5, 2008
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        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "tatsumechan" <kanamori.tatsume@...>
        wrote:
        >
        > Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
        > bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
        > white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
        > that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
        > Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?
        >
        > Tatsume
        >

        Ack! It was in the kimono that I was reading. Kosode is the other book
        I got from the library. I need more sleep apparently.

        Tatsume
      • wodeford
        ... Hitoe means an unlined garment. The index in Dalby s Kimono: Fashioning Culture actually has two listings of this term, one for any unlined kimono, one
        Message 3 of 8 , Dec 5, 2008
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          --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "tatsumechan" <kanamori.tatsume@...>
          wrote:
          >
          > Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
          > bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
          > white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
          > that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
          > Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?

          "Hitoe" means an unlined garment. The index in Dalby's "Kimono:
          Fashioning Culture" actually has two listings of this term, one for
          any unlined kimono, one for the "chemise" layer worn in the Heian
          period. (There's even male hitoe from the Heian period, but it is not
          discussed in Dalby.) Pages 228 - 229 of my edition of Dalby (it's in
          Chapter 7) discuss the layers worn: kosode, with
          hakama/haribakama/nagabakama worn over it. Over that, the hitoe and
          then multiple uchigi over the hitoe.

          "Hitoe, chemise. First of the layered set of gowns, cut slightly
          larger than the ones that came on top. The hitoe protruded prominently
          at the sleeve openings and hem. The color of the chemise was crucial
          to the ensemble's effect...."

          This video shows a woman being dressed in a Heian ensemble.
          http://www.tokyodv.com/culture/HinaKimono.html
          Note that she starts out in a white kosode and scarlet nagabakama. The
          first layer the dressers put on over that (light green) is her hitoe.
          When they've got everything else on, you can still see the green hitoe
          layer peeping out from under all the sleeves layered on top because
          it's cut slightly wider than they are.

          Hope this helps.

          Saionji no Hanae
          West Kingdom
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