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Re: [SCA-JML] Heian Dyeing

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  • Franzi Dickson
    I think Liza Dalby s book Kimono has some info on the dyeing. It s certainly a good place to start if you re interested in the color combinations. --Franzi
    Message 1 of 8 , Dec 1, 2008
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      I think Liza Dalby's book "Kimono" has some info on the dyeing. It's certainly a good place to start if you're interested in the color combinations.

      --Franzi
    • wodeford
      https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese.php?s=&c=8&d=101&e=&f=&g=&a=222&w=2 may be of interest. If you can get your hands on a copy, Amanda Meyer
      Message 2 of 8 , Dec 1, 2008
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        https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese.php?s=&c=8&d=101&e=&f=&g=&a=222&w=2
        may be of interest.

        If you can get your hands on a copy, Amanda Meyer Stinchecum's
        "Kosode: 16th-19th Century Textiles From The Nomura Collection" has an
        excellent appendix on dyeing and dyes used in feudal Japan.

        Saionji no Hanae
        West Kingdom
      • Deb Strub
        Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Liza Crihfield Dalby
        Message 3 of 8 , Dec 1, 2008
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          Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Liza Crihfield Dalby
          <http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?%5
          Fencoding=UTF8&search-type=ss&index=books&field-author=Liza%20Crihfield%20Da
          lby> ISBN-10: 0295981555 has a couple of good chapters on Heian period
          layering.
          KOSODE 16th - 19th Century Textiles from the Nomura Collection by Amanda
          Mayer Stinchecum ISBN 0-87011-429-8 has a number of sections that will
          helpful to you. Check out the whole section "Color: Dyes and Pigments" by
          Monica Bethe for details on color significance, dyestuff, techniques, etc.
          Appendix 5 Dyes and Colors is a table with illustrations of the plants,
          extraction methods with mordants, colors yielded, etc.
          Textiles of Old Japan: Color and Dye by Mary Dusenbury with Takimo Kazuko is
          a pamphlet accompanying an exhibition at the San Francisco Craft & Folk Art
          Museum, April 16 - June 8, 1986. It discusses the development and use of
          different dyes throughout the various historical periods in Japan.
          You should be able to get the first tow references from Interlibrary Loan.
          The third may be hard to find. You can write the museum and see if they
          still have copies available.
          Good luck with your project.
          YIS,
          Murakami Tsuruko
          An Tir


          From: sca-jml@yahoogroups.com [mailto:sca-jml@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
          tatsumechan
          Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 8:28 AM
          To: sca-jml@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [SCA-JML] Heian Dyeing

          (yes dyeing is a real word according to dictionary.com)

          Can anyone point me towards some books about Heian period dyeing. I
          want to write a paper for school about the color layering of the
          women's clothes and thought it'd be nice to include some information
          about the dyeing process.

          arigatou gozaimasu
          Tatsume


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • tatsumechan
          Thenk you everybody. Turns out my school library has Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Dalby and Kosode by Stinchecum so I ll be getting those two tomorrow baring
          Message 4 of 8 , Dec 1, 2008
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            Thenk you everybody. Turns out my school library has Kimono:
            Fashioning Culture by Dalby and Kosode by Stinchecum so I'll be
            getting those two tomorrow baring that anything unusual and down right
            weird happens.

            domo arigatou gozaimasu
            Tatsume
          • tatsumechan
            Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a white kosode
            Message 5 of 8 , Dec 5, 2008
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              Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
              bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
              white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
              that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
              Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?

              Tatsume
            • tatsumechan
              ... Ack! It was in the kimono that I was reading. Kosode is the other book I got from the library. I need more sleep apparently. Tatsume
              Message 6 of 8 , Dec 5, 2008
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                --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "tatsumechan" <kanamori.tatsume@...>
                wrote:
                >
                > Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
                > bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
                > white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
                > that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
                > Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?
                >
                > Tatsume
                >

                Ack! It was in the kimono that I was reading. Kosode is the other book
                I got from the library. I need more sleep apparently.

                Tatsume
              • wodeford
                ... Hitoe means an unlined garment. The index in Dalby s Kimono: Fashioning Culture actually has two listings of this term, one for any unlined kimono, one
                Message 7 of 8 , Dec 5, 2008
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                  --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "tatsumechan" <kanamori.tatsume@...>
                  wrote:
                  >
                  > Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
                  > bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
                  > white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
                  > that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
                  > Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?

                  "Hitoe" means an unlined garment. The index in Dalby's "Kimono:
                  Fashioning Culture" actually has two listings of this term, one for
                  any unlined kimono, one for the "chemise" layer worn in the Heian
                  period. (There's even male hitoe from the Heian period, but it is not
                  discussed in Dalby.) Pages 228 - 229 of my edition of Dalby (it's in
                  Chapter 7) discuss the layers worn: kosode, with
                  hakama/haribakama/nagabakama worn over it. Over that, the hitoe and
                  then multiple uchigi over the hitoe.

                  "Hitoe, chemise. First of the layered set of gowns, cut slightly
                  larger than the ones that came on top. The hitoe protruded prominently
                  at the sleeve openings and hem. The color of the chemise was crucial
                  to the ensemble's effect...."

                  This video shows a woman being dressed in a Heian ensemble.
                  http://www.tokyodv.com/culture/HinaKimono.html
                  Note that she starts out in a white kosode and scarlet nagabakama. The
                  first layer the dressers put on over that (light green) is her hitoe.
                  When they've got everything else on, you can still see the green hitoe
                  layer peeping out from under all the sleeves layered on top because
                  it's cut slightly wider than they are.

                  Hope this helps.

                  Saionji no Hanae
                  West Kingdom
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