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Heian Dyeing

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  • tatsumechan
    (yes dyeing is a real word according to dictionary.com) Can anyone point me towards some books about Heian period dyeing. I want to write a paper for school
    Message 1 of 8 , Dec 1, 2008
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      (yes dyeing is a real word according to dictionary.com)

      Can anyone point me towards some books about Heian period dyeing. I
      want to write a paper for school about the color layering of the
      women's clothes and thought it'd be nice to include some information
      about the dyeing process.

      arigatou gozaimasu
      Tatsume
    • Franzi Dickson
      I think Liza Dalby s book Kimono has some info on the dyeing. It s certainly a good place to start if you re interested in the color combinations. --Franzi
      Message 2 of 8 , Dec 1, 2008
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        I think Liza Dalby's book "Kimono" has some info on the dyeing. It's certainly a good place to start if you're interested in the color combinations.

        --Franzi
      • wodeford
        https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese.php?s=&c=8&d=101&e=&f=&g=&a=222&w=2 may be of interest. If you can get your hands on a copy, Amanda Meyer
        Message 3 of 8 , Dec 1, 2008
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          https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese.php?s=&c=8&d=101&e=&f=&g=&a=222&w=2
          may be of interest.

          If you can get your hands on a copy, Amanda Meyer Stinchecum's
          "Kosode: 16th-19th Century Textiles From The Nomura Collection" has an
          excellent appendix on dyeing and dyes used in feudal Japan.

          Saionji no Hanae
          West Kingdom
        • Deb Strub
          Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Liza Crihfield Dalby
          Message 4 of 8 , Dec 1, 2008
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            Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Liza Crihfield Dalby
            <http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?%5
            Fencoding=UTF8&search-type=ss&index=books&field-author=Liza%20Crihfield%20Da
            lby> ISBN-10: 0295981555 has a couple of good chapters on Heian period
            layering.
            KOSODE 16th - 19th Century Textiles from the Nomura Collection by Amanda
            Mayer Stinchecum ISBN 0-87011-429-8 has a number of sections that will
            helpful to you. Check out the whole section "Color: Dyes and Pigments" by
            Monica Bethe for details on color significance, dyestuff, techniques, etc.
            Appendix 5 Dyes and Colors is a table with illustrations of the plants,
            extraction methods with mordants, colors yielded, etc.
            Textiles of Old Japan: Color and Dye by Mary Dusenbury with Takimo Kazuko is
            a pamphlet accompanying an exhibition at the San Francisco Craft & Folk Art
            Museum, April 16 - June 8, 1986. It discusses the development and use of
            different dyes throughout the various historical periods in Japan.
            You should be able to get the first tow references from Interlibrary Loan.
            The third may be hard to find. You can write the museum and see if they
            still have copies available.
            Good luck with your project.
            YIS,
            Murakami Tsuruko
            An Tir


            From: sca-jml@yahoogroups.com [mailto:sca-jml@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
            tatsumechan
            Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 8:28 AM
            To: sca-jml@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: [SCA-JML] Heian Dyeing

            (yes dyeing is a real word according to dictionary.com)

            Can anyone point me towards some books about Heian period dyeing. I
            want to write a paper for school about the color layering of the
            women's clothes and thought it'd be nice to include some information
            about the dyeing process.

            arigatou gozaimasu
            Tatsume


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • tatsumechan
            Thenk you everybody. Turns out my school library has Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Dalby and Kosode by Stinchecum so I ll be getting those two tomorrow baring
            Message 5 of 8 , Dec 1, 2008
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              Thenk you everybody. Turns out my school library has Kimono:
              Fashioning Culture by Dalby and Kosode by Stinchecum so I'll be
              getting those two tomorrow baring that anything unusual and down right
              weird happens.

              domo arigatou gozaimasu
              Tatsume
            • tatsumechan
              Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a white kosode
              Message 6 of 8 , Dec 5, 2008
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                Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
                bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
                white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
                that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
                Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?

                Tatsume
              • tatsumechan
                ... Ack! It was in the kimono that I was reading. Kosode is the other book I got from the library. I need more sleep apparently. Tatsume
                Message 7 of 8 , Dec 5, 2008
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                  --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "tatsumechan" <kanamori.tatsume@...>
                  wrote:
                  >
                  > Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
                  > bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
                  > white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
                  > that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
                  > Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?
                  >
                  > Tatsume
                  >

                  Ack! It was in the kimono that I was reading. Kosode is the other book
                  I got from the library. I need more sleep apparently.

                  Tatsume
                • wodeford
                  ... Hitoe means an unlined garment. The index in Dalby s Kimono: Fashioning Culture actually has two listings of this term, one for any unlined kimono, one
                  Message 8 of 8 , Dec 5, 2008
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                    --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "tatsumechan" <kanamori.tatsume@...>
                    wrote:
                    >
                    > Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
                    > bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
                    > white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
                    > that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
                    > Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?

                    "Hitoe" means an unlined garment. The index in Dalby's "Kimono:
                    Fashioning Culture" actually has two listings of this term, one for
                    any unlined kimono, one for the "chemise" layer worn in the Heian
                    period. (There's even male hitoe from the Heian period, but it is not
                    discussed in Dalby.) Pages 228 - 229 of my edition of Dalby (it's in
                    Chapter 7) discuss the layers worn: kosode, with
                    hakama/haribakama/nagabakama worn over it. Over that, the hitoe and
                    then multiple uchigi over the hitoe.

                    "Hitoe, chemise. First of the layered set of gowns, cut slightly
                    larger than the ones that came on top. The hitoe protruded prominently
                    at the sleeve openings and hem. The color of the chemise was crucial
                    to the ensemble's effect...."

                    This video shows a woman being dressed in a Heian ensemble.
                    http://www.tokyodv.com/culture/HinaKimono.html
                    Note that she starts out in a white kosode and scarlet nagabakama. The
                    first layer the dressers put on over that (light green) is her hitoe.
                    When they've got everything else on, you can still see the green hitoe
                    layer peeping out from under all the sleeves layered on top because
                    it's cut slightly wider than they are.

                    Hope this helps.

                    Saionji no Hanae
                    West Kingdom
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