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Re: Trouble with my first kosode

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  • wodeford
    ... Yes. Measure the width of your neck with a ruler, add 1 , and using the back seam as the center point, mark this measurement. Cut a slight curve about an
    Message 1 of 4 , Sep 1, 2008
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      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "pernika2003" <pernika2003@...> wrote:
      > I just
      > can't seem to understand how the eri attaches to the migoro and then
      > the okumi. Do you cut part of it off at the top??

      Yes. "Measure the width of your neck with a ruler, add 1", and using
      the back seam as the center point, mark this measurement. Cut a slight
      curve about an inch deep at its lowest point."
      http://www.wodefordhall.com/figure5.jpg shows the approximate curve
      you remove at the top of the center back seam. It's a very shallow curve.

      Once you've cut that curve, "Find the center point on the long side of
      the collar (eri) and match it to the center back seam at the bottom of
      the curved cut. Allow yourself a full 1/2" seam allowance and,
      starting from the center back, sew the eri to the body all the way to
      the body all the way around the curve and down the open front edge of
      the migoro until you get to the okumi." Do each side and stop at the
      top of the okumi. You should have even lengths left at this point.

      Look at this photo:
      http://www.tnm.go.jp/gallery/search/images/500/C0015212.jpg

      You can see how the eri angles down across the okumi until it reaches
      the okumi's outer edge. Pin the eri in place so it does this, attach
      with basting stitch on both sides and check it. If it's lying straight
      and even, sew it down. THEN you can trim off the triangular bits of
      the okumi before folding the eri over and attaching it.

      Saionji no Hanae
      West Kingdom
    • Eliza Hulce
      Ok, I understand cutting out the curve.  What does the front of it look like before you sew the eri down.  It seems very high up on my neck when I try
      Message 2 of 4 , Sep 1, 2008
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        Ok, I understand cutting out the curve.  What does the front of it look like before you sew the eri down.  It seems very high up on my neck when I try it on.  Do I fold it down or work the eri onto it?
         
        Thanks again,
        Mari



        ----- Original Message ----
        From: wodeford <wodeford@...>
        To: sca-jml@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Monday, September 1, 2008 1:56:21 PM
        Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Trouble with my first kosode


        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups .com, "pernika2003" <pernika2003@ ...> wrote:
        > I just
        > can't seem to understand how the eri attaches to the migoro and then
        > the okumi. Do you cut part of it off at the top??

        Yes. "Measure the width of your neck with a ruler, add 1", and using
        the back seam as the center point, mark this measurement. Cut a slight
        curve about an inch deep at its lowest point."
        http://www.wodeford hall.com/ figure5.jpg shows the approximate curve
        you remove at the top of the center back seam. It's a very shallow curve.

        Once you've cut that curve, "Find the center point on the long side of
        the collar (eri) and match it to the center back seam at the bottom of
        the curved cut. Allow yourself a full 1/2" seam allowance and,
        starting from the center back, sew the eri to the body all the way to
        the body all the way around the curve and down the open front edge of
        the migoro until you get to the okumi." Do each side and stop at the
        top of the okumi. You should have even lengths left at this point.

        Look at this photo:
        http://www.tnm go.jp/gallery/ search/images/ 500/C0015212. jpg

        You can see how the eri angles down across the okumi until it reaches
        the okumi's outer edge. Pin the eri in place so it does this, attach
        with basting stitch on both sides and check it. If it's lying straight
        and even, sew it down. THEN you can trim off the triangular bits of
        the okumi before folding the eri over and attaching it.

        Saionji no Hanae
        West Kingdom






        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • wodeford
        ... look like before you sew the eri down.  It seems very high up on my neck when I try it on.  Do I fold it down or work the eri onto it? The curve cut
        Message 3 of 4 , Sep 1, 2008
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          --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, Eliza Hulce <pernika2003@...> wrote:
          > Ok, I understand cutting out the curve.  What does the front of it
          look like before you sew the eri down.  It seems very high up on my
          neck when I try it on.  Do I fold it down or work the eri onto it?

          The curve cut should be done at the midpoint between the front and
          back body panels - in other words, the 1" dip should be 1" below the
          shoulder fold.

          The eri gets folded over for finishing. If you've tried it on before
          it's folded down it will feel and look a little weird.

          The finished eri should lie against the back of your neck.
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