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Trouble with my first kosode

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  • pernika2003
    Greetings to the List! My name is Mari and I have just discovered the wondrous world of Japanese garb and have divided head first into making new Japanese
    Message 1 of 4 , Sep 1, 2008
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      Greetings to the List!

      My name is Mari and I have just discovered the wondrous world of
      Japanese garb and have divided head first into making new Japanese
      outfits for me and my boyfriend. I am making a pair of hakama and a
      kosode for each of us. I am not having any trouble with the Hakama.
      They came out great but the collar on the kosode is really giving me
      headaches. I just can't seem to visualize how it is goes on. I am
      using this website for directions:
      http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm and I really love. It's a
      wonderful site, full of useful information and inspiration! I just
      can't seem to understand how the eri attaches to the migoro and then
      the okumi. Do you cut part of it off at the top?? I would appreciate
      any help. Thank you!!


      A very grateful,
      Mari
    • wodeford
      ... Yes. Measure the width of your neck with a ruler, add 1 , and using the back seam as the center point, mark this measurement. Cut a slight curve about an
      Message 2 of 4 , Sep 1, 2008
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        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "pernika2003" <pernika2003@...> wrote:
        > I just
        > can't seem to understand how the eri attaches to the migoro and then
        > the okumi. Do you cut part of it off at the top??

        Yes. "Measure the width of your neck with a ruler, add 1", and using
        the back seam as the center point, mark this measurement. Cut a slight
        curve about an inch deep at its lowest point."
        http://www.wodefordhall.com/figure5.jpg shows the approximate curve
        you remove at the top of the center back seam. It's a very shallow curve.

        Once you've cut that curve, "Find the center point on the long side of
        the collar (eri) and match it to the center back seam at the bottom of
        the curved cut. Allow yourself a full 1/2" seam allowance and,
        starting from the center back, sew the eri to the body all the way to
        the body all the way around the curve and down the open front edge of
        the migoro until you get to the okumi." Do each side and stop at the
        top of the okumi. You should have even lengths left at this point.

        Look at this photo:
        http://www.tnm.go.jp/gallery/search/images/500/C0015212.jpg

        You can see how the eri angles down across the okumi until it reaches
        the okumi's outer edge. Pin the eri in place so it does this, attach
        with basting stitch on both sides and check it. If it's lying straight
        and even, sew it down. THEN you can trim off the triangular bits of
        the okumi before folding the eri over and attaching it.

        Saionji no Hanae
        West Kingdom
      • Eliza Hulce
        Ok, I understand cutting out the curve.  What does the front of it look like before you sew the eri down.  It seems very high up on my neck when I try
        Message 3 of 4 , Sep 1, 2008
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          Ok, I understand cutting out the curve.  What does the front of it look like before you sew the eri down.  It seems very high up on my neck when I try it on.  Do I fold it down or work the eri onto it?
           
          Thanks again,
          Mari



          ----- Original Message ----
          From: wodeford <wodeford@...>
          To: sca-jml@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Monday, September 1, 2008 1:56:21 PM
          Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Trouble with my first kosode


          --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups .com, "pernika2003" <pernika2003@ ...> wrote:
          > I just
          > can't seem to understand how the eri attaches to the migoro and then
          > the okumi. Do you cut part of it off at the top??

          Yes. "Measure the width of your neck with a ruler, add 1", and using
          the back seam as the center point, mark this measurement. Cut a slight
          curve about an inch deep at its lowest point."
          http://www.wodeford hall.com/ figure5.jpg shows the approximate curve
          you remove at the top of the center back seam. It's a very shallow curve.

          Once you've cut that curve, "Find the center point on the long side of
          the collar (eri) and match it to the center back seam at the bottom of
          the curved cut. Allow yourself a full 1/2" seam allowance and,
          starting from the center back, sew the eri to the body all the way to
          the body all the way around the curve and down the open front edge of
          the migoro until you get to the okumi." Do each side and stop at the
          top of the okumi. You should have even lengths left at this point.

          Look at this photo:
          http://www.tnm go.jp/gallery/ search/images/ 500/C0015212. jpg

          You can see how the eri angles down across the okumi until it reaches
          the okumi's outer edge. Pin the eri in place so it does this, attach
          with basting stitch on both sides and check it. If it's lying straight
          and even, sew it down. THEN you can trim off the triangular bits of
          the okumi before folding the eri over and attaching it.

          Saionji no Hanae
          West Kingdom






          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • wodeford
          ... look like before you sew the eri down.  It seems very high up on my neck when I try it on.  Do I fold it down or work the eri onto it? The curve cut
          Message 4 of 4 , Sep 1, 2008
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            --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, Eliza Hulce <pernika2003@...> wrote:
            > Ok, I understand cutting out the curve.  What does the front of it
            look like before you sew the eri down.  It seems very high up on my
            neck when I try it on.  Do I fold it down or work the eri onto it?

            The curve cut should be done at the midpoint between the front and
            back body panels - in other words, the 1" dip should be 1" below the
            shoulder fold.

            The eri gets folded over for finishing. If you've tried it on before
            it's folded down it will feel and look a little weird.

            The finished eri should lie against the back of your neck.
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