Re: Cut of Heian ginu
- Dalby, Kimono: Fashioning Culture, Chapter 7, p. 235 of my edition,
facing the color plate of Ms. Dalby in karaginu mo:
"I had mistakenly thought that the robes in a set must have each been
cut smaller in order to reveal the edge of the one beneath, but I
discovered that the effect was created as each layer created more
bulk, and it was the skill of the dresser that made the edges lie so
p. 229, see description of hitoe "cut slightly larger than the ones
that came on top. The hitoe protruded prominently at the sleeve
openings and hem." The uchigi description repeats the fact that it's
the bulk of the layers that reveals the edges of the inner ones.
p. 230, see description of Karaginu with "relatively narrow sleeves."
See also Abe-hime's response regarding relative dimensions on the
Saionji no Hanae