help with kamakura garb
- Greetings all. I am known as Mushime. I am researching a female persona
of the kamakura era. Although the wife of a Samurai I have run into bad
luck due to the wars and am now the hand servant of an upper class
I finally understand the layers of robes and seasonal colors for the
Heian era but how did it change in the Kamakura era? For instance, is
the hitoe and outermost robe the important colors to have correct?
I've checked the archives on this list and didn't see anything to
explain this for kamakura. Can someone suggest resources specific for
the kamakura period.
your most humble servant,
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "panimagdalena56" <nunother56@...> wrote:
> I finally understand the layers of robes and seasonal colors for theIt didn't in the Imperial court. Lady Nijo's diary, chronicling events
> Heian era but how did it change in the Kamakura era?
in the middle of the Kamakura period, indicates that the court was
still harking back to the glory of the Heian period, fashion wise.
The kasane color combinations specifically refer to your hitoe and the
five (or fewer in summer or really informal situations) layers worn
over it. The color of the uwagi worn over that is not specified
anywhere that I know of.
Best place to look online is the Kyoto Costume Museum website.
Outside the court, it's likely that the rigorous color combinations of
kasane did not remain in fashion. Layering continued to some extent,
but nagabakama went away and kosode became the basic unit of one's
wardrobe. However, season-appropriate colors and design motifs
probably did exist. While the following link is to a poetry site, it
may give you some ideas as to what motifs (and related colors) are
appropriate in certain seasons. http://renku.home.att.net/500ESWd.html
For example, a kosode or uchikake with plum, pine and bamboo (the
"Three Friends") on it would be just the thing to wear in winter,
cherry blossoms are spring, maple leaves autumn, and so forth...
If you don't have it, Liza Dalby's "Kimono: Fashioning Culture"
explores the Heian kasane in great detail.
Hope this helps a bit,
Saionji no Hanae
- Thank you saionji-hime. I am honored by your reply.
Now that I have guidance I can go back to the sites you mentioned with