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Re: Sewing an Obi

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  • jenmcnitt
    The silk is one of the heavier ones that I could find, but it is not stiff at all. Based off a suggestion I found I was going to use a denim fabric to help
    Message 1 of 10 , Oct 14, 2007
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      The silk is one of the heavier ones that I could find, but it is not
      stiff at all. Based off a suggestion I found I was going to use a
      denim fabric to help stiffen.

      That might be too heavy if I used it as an interline, butI might be
      able to find something else that I have onhand to use.

      The instructions I was reading are here:

      http://www.raito.com/clothing.htm

      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "luannesews2001" <Luiseach@...> wrote:
      >
      > What is the weight/stiffness of the silk you are using for the obi
      > and what is the finished width of your tube? You might be better
      to
      > completely interline it, or you may be able to use a piece of sewn-
      in
      > interfacing of some sort. Don't use any kind of iron-on sticky-
      > backed interfacing.
      >
      > Luighseach
      >
      > --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "jenmcnitt" <jennifer.mcnitt@>
      > wrote:
      > >
      > > I'm currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode,
      > Hakama
      > > and Uchikake I just made.
      > >
      > > This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering
      what
      > > would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of
      > sewing
      > > the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing
      it.
      > > Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert
      to
      > > give the Obi a bit more stiffness.
      > >
      > > What would be the best way to add in some type of insert? Would
      I
      > be
      > > able to insert it after I turn it rightside out?
      > >
      > > Any suggestions are welcome.
      > >
      > > Thanks!
      > >
      >
    • wodeford
      ... If this is a lightweight silk, I suggest you buy some medium to heavy weight interfacing (it should feel almost as stiff as an index card). Having
      Message 2 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "jenmcnitt" <jennifer.mcnitt@...> wrote:
        > This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering what
        > would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of sewing
        > the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing it.
        > Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert to
        > give the Obi a bit more stiffness.

        If this is a lightweight silk, I suggest you buy some medium to heavy
        weight interfacing (it should feel almost as stiff as an index card).
        Having deconstructed a couple of modern hanhaba obi to make them into
        period widths, I can confirm that modern obi do incorporate interfacing.

        Cut the interfacing to the width you want. Fold your obi fabric
        lengthwise and press with the interfacing tucked inside the fold.
        Check to see if you need to trim the interfacing a little narrower at
        this point. Then press the edges of the obi fabric under so it can be
        sewn together. You can either blindstitch everything closed by hand or
        machine sew it. Trust me, this is easier than trying to turn a two
        yard long, two inch wide tube inside out.

        Saionji no Hanae
        West
      • Sfandra
        Greetings noble personages, This person is very new to japanese research, having undertaken to create a hitatare sugata for a friend with a momoyama period
        Message 3 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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          Greetings noble personages,

          This person is very new to japanese research, having
          undertaken to create a hitatare sugata for a friend
          with a momoyama period samurai persona in the SCA.

          There are two questions, which this person hopes the
          knowledgeable personages of this list would deign to
          answer.

          First, it the hitatare sugata an appropriate choice
          for a samurai of Sho-hachi-i rank for wear into SCA
          court?

          Secondly, as this person's friend is also a squire,
          this person had thought to make a red obi for the
          friend as well. Was the obi ever decorated with
          embroidery?

          Most humble thanks for your noble attention,

          In Service,

          Posadnitsa Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova

          ******************
          Posadnitsa Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
          KOE, Maunche, Apprentice to Maitresse Irene LeNoir
          Haus Von Drakenklaue
          Kingdom of the East
          ******************
          Never 'pearl' your butt.


          ____________________________________________________________________________________
          Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more!
          http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658
        • Solveig Throndardottir
          Noble Cousins! Greetings from Solveig! 1. I recommend coarse weave interfacing. 2. Your obi should not be all that wide. The fat obis which you commonly see
          Message 4 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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            Noble Cousins!

            Greetings from Solveig!

            1. I recommend coarse weave interfacing.

            2. Your "obi" should not be all that wide. The fat obis which you
            commonly see are pretty much an Edo innovation.

            Your Humble Servant
            Solveig Throndardottir
            Amateur Scholar





            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • masahide@summerscauldron.com
            Greetings Jennifer, I make NO assurance that this is a period technique, but this is what I have tried successfully. When I m using a thin silk and I want it
            Message 5 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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              Greetings Jennifer,

              I make NO assurance that this is a period technique, but this is what I
              have tried successfully.

              When I'm using a thin silk and I want it for ties on Hakama (and this can
              be done for an obi as well), what I have done is to use a heavier fabric,
              such as trigger, as the interfacing. I would use a tube technique that you
              suggest. Cut the trigger/interfacing to the same width as the obi fabric,
              and the length you want the finished obi to be. Cut your obi fabric at
              least 1.5 to 2 inches longer. Pin them together with the extra obi fabric
              sticking out both ends, and sew the tube. Clip the extra
              trigger/interfacing close to the seam, and press the seam flat. Pull it
              inside out, fold the outside silk in at the ends to the trigger, and then
              close in what ever way you like (top stitch, whip stitch, etc). When you
              press it flat, you get a good amount of stability and strength from the
              trigger. I tend to also top stitch down both lengths of the obi or waist
              tie when I do this, so that the trigger is firmly affixed under the silk.
              This has worked very well for me, and I don't get the "crumpled band" that
              I get with plain silk or cotton obis or ties.

              I have started doing this with collars too, and so far, it seems to really
              help stiffen them up.

              Furukusu Masahide

              Original Message:
              -----------------
              1a. Sewing an Obi
              Posted by: "jenmcnitt" jennifer.mcnitt@... jenmcnitt
              Date: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:19 pm ((PDT))

              I'm currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode, Hakama
              and Uchikake I just made.

              This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering what
              would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of sewing
              the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing it.
              Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert to
              give the Obi a bit more stiffness.

              What would be the best way to add in some type of insert? Would I be
              able to insert it after I turn it rightside out?

              Any suggestions are welcome.

              Thanks!

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            • sfandra
              (apologies if this comes through twice) Most humble greetings unto the noble personages of this list. This person is new to the study of japanese garb, having
              Message 6 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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                (apologies if this comes through twice)

                Most humble greetings unto the noble personages of this list.

                This person is new to the study of japanese garb, having planned to
                make a hitatare sugata for a friend in the SCA with a Momoyama period
                samurai persona as a gift of appreciation for his moving performance
                of a poem/song in japanese at the Last Court of Lucan VII of the East.

                Humbly this person asks firstly, is the hitatare sugata a good choice
                for court garb for a Momoyama period samurai of sho hachi-i rank?

                Secondly, as the most noble friend is also a squire, this person had
                planned on providing a red obi as part of this gift. Was the obi
                ever decorated with embroidery?

                Many thanks unto the noble assembly from this most unworthy newcomer.

                In Service,

                Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
              • Lori Hannis
                Greetings to the list! while I ve never sewn an obi, (yet). I have however sewn really really long belts out of fabric and had to make them very stiff I took
                Message 7 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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                  Greetings to the list!

                  while I've never sewn an obi, (yet). I have however sewn really really long belts out of fabric
                  and had to make them very stiff

                  I took the fabric about 4 times as wide as i want the finished product.

                  So, if i want it 2 inches, i cut it 8 inches x length.

                  Then....i lay it flat, and put pellon or something similar down the middle of it, folding the uncovered sides into the middle....and stich down each side
                  So...somewhat like this

                  ___________________________________________________

                  XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
                  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
                  ___________________________________________________

                  where the x's are is where the pellon reaches too...so the middle half of the belt.

                  i stitch down the middle of the pellon to hold it in place, then fold the unpelloned edges into the middle...sewing down each selvedge edge

                  Then fold again in half so it's gone from being 8 inches, to two.

                  then I sew straight seams down 3 places, so it's good...stiff and strong.

                  While I've never sewn an obi, i have used this on modern kimono collars, and it made them very good and stiff and the people i made them for adored them.

                  Whether accurate, or not I really don't know

                  Emeline/Yumi


                  Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass
                  it's learning to dance in the rain.
                  Unknown.


                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • wodeford
                  ... http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.ch02.html Hitatare are formal dress for the samurai class in the period you are describing. ... Hard to say
                  Message 8 of 10 , Oct 20, 2007
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                    --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, Sfandra <seonaid13@...> wrote:
                    > First, it the hitatare sugata an appropriate choice
                    > for a samurai of Sho-hachi-i rank for wear into SCA
                    > court?
                    http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.ch02.html
                    Hitatare are "formal" dress for the samurai class in the period you
                    are describing.

                    > Secondly, as this person's friend is also a squire,
                    > this person had thought to make a red obi for the
                    > friend as well. Was the obi ever decorated with
                    > embroidery?

                    Hard to say because I have not come across any extant obi from that
                    period. My gut feeling is probably not. According to my textile books,
                    there are embroideries from early in our period and then the fashion
                    disappears for several centuries. When it comes back, it's in
                    imitation of Chinese imports, and a poor imitation at that. (If anyone
                    else has more information, please chime in!)

                    BTW, if you look at the pictures of hitatare at the link I posted, you
                    can't see the obi because it's UNDER the hakama ties.

                    If you make him an uwa obi to wear with his fighting kit, I'm thinking
                    embroidery might not be the most practical thing anyway. It's
                    basically a simple, folded strip of cloth.
                    http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/uwaobi.html

                    (Embroidery DOES appear in women's obi well after our period. Which
                    doesn't help you, I know.)

                    Saionji no Hanae
                    West Kingdom
                    West
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