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Re: Sewing an Obi

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  • luannesews2001
    What is the weight/stiffness of the silk you are using for the obi and what is the finished width of your tube? You might be better to completely interline
    Message 1 of 10 , Oct 14, 2007
      What is the weight/stiffness of the silk you are using for the obi
      and what is the finished width of your tube? You might be better to
      completely interline it, or you may be able to use a piece of sewn-in
      interfacing of some sort. Don't use any kind of iron-on sticky-
      backed interfacing.

      Luighseach

      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "jenmcnitt" <jennifer.mcnitt@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > I'm currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode,
      Hakama
      > and Uchikake I just made.
      >
      > This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering what
      > would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of
      sewing
      > the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing it.
      > Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert to
      > give the Obi a bit more stiffness.
      >
      > What would be the best way to add in some type of insert? Would I
      be
      > able to insert it after I turn it rightside out?
      >
      > Any suggestions are welcome.
      >
      > Thanks!
      >
    • jenmcnitt
      The silk is one of the heavier ones that I could find, but it is not stiff at all. Based off a suggestion I found I was going to use a denim fabric to help
      Message 2 of 10 , Oct 14, 2007
        The silk is one of the heavier ones that I could find, but it is not
        stiff at all. Based off a suggestion I found I was going to use a
        denim fabric to help stiffen.

        That might be too heavy if I used it as an interline, butI might be
        able to find something else that I have onhand to use.

        The instructions I was reading are here:

        http://www.raito.com/clothing.htm

        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "luannesews2001" <Luiseach@...> wrote:
        >
        > What is the weight/stiffness of the silk you are using for the obi
        > and what is the finished width of your tube? You might be better
        to
        > completely interline it, or you may be able to use a piece of sewn-
        in
        > interfacing of some sort. Don't use any kind of iron-on sticky-
        > backed interfacing.
        >
        > Luighseach
        >
        > --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "jenmcnitt" <jennifer.mcnitt@>
        > wrote:
        > >
        > > I'm currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode,
        > Hakama
        > > and Uchikake I just made.
        > >
        > > This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering
        what
        > > would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of
        > sewing
        > > the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing
        it.
        > > Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert
        to
        > > give the Obi a bit more stiffness.
        > >
        > > What would be the best way to add in some type of insert? Would
        I
        > be
        > > able to insert it after I turn it rightside out?
        > >
        > > Any suggestions are welcome.
        > >
        > > Thanks!
        > >
        >
      • wodeford
        ... If this is a lightweight silk, I suggest you buy some medium to heavy weight interfacing (it should feel almost as stiff as an index card). Having
        Message 3 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
          --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "jenmcnitt" <jennifer.mcnitt@...> wrote:
          > This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering what
          > would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of sewing
          > the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing it.
          > Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert to
          > give the Obi a bit more stiffness.

          If this is a lightweight silk, I suggest you buy some medium to heavy
          weight interfacing (it should feel almost as stiff as an index card).
          Having deconstructed a couple of modern hanhaba obi to make them into
          period widths, I can confirm that modern obi do incorporate interfacing.

          Cut the interfacing to the width you want. Fold your obi fabric
          lengthwise and press with the interfacing tucked inside the fold.
          Check to see if you need to trim the interfacing a little narrower at
          this point. Then press the edges of the obi fabric under so it can be
          sewn together. You can either blindstitch everything closed by hand or
          machine sew it. Trust me, this is easier than trying to turn a two
          yard long, two inch wide tube inside out.

          Saionji no Hanae
          West
        • Sfandra
          Greetings noble personages, This person is very new to japanese research, having undertaken to create a hitatare sugata for a friend with a momoyama period
          Message 4 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
            Greetings noble personages,

            This person is very new to japanese research, having
            undertaken to create a hitatare sugata for a friend
            with a momoyama period samurai persona in the SCA.

            There are two questions, which this person hopes the
            knowledgeable personages of this list would deign to
            answer.

            First, it the hitatare sugata an appropriate choice
            for a samurai of Sho-hachi-i rank for wear into SCA
            court?

            Secondly, as this person's friend is also a squire,
            this person had thought to make a red obi for the
            friend as well. Was the obi ever decorated with
            embroidery?

            Most humble thanks for your noble attention,

            In Service,

            Posadnitsa Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova

            ******************
            Posadnitsa Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
            KOE, Maunche, Apprentice to Maitresse Irene LeNoir
            Haus Von Drakenklaue
            Kingdom of the East
            ******************
            Never 'pearl' your butt.


            ____________________________________________________________________________________
            Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more!
            http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658
          • Solveig Throndardottir
            Noble Cousins! Greetings from Solveig! 1. I recommend coarse weave interfacing. 2. Your obi should not be all that wide. The fat obis which you commonly see
            Message 5 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
              Noble Cousins!

              Greetings from Solveig!

              1. I recommend coarse weave interfacing.

              2. Your "obi" should not be all that wide. The fat obis which you
              commonly see are pretty much an Edo innovation.

              Your Humble Servant
              Solveig Throndardottir
              Amateur Scholar





              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • masahide@summerscauldron.com
              Greetings Jennifer, I make NO assurance that this is a period technique, but this is what I have tried successfully. When I m using a thin silk and I want it
              Message 6 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
                Greetings Jennifer,

                I make NO assurance that this is a period technique, but this is what I
                have tried successfully.

                When I'm using a thin silk and I want it for ties on Hakama (and this can
                be done for an obi as well), what I have done is to use a heavier fabric,
                such as trigger, as the interfacing. I would use a tube technique that you
                suggest. Cut the trigger/interfacing to the same width as the obi fabric,
                and the length you want the finished obi to be. Cut your obi fabric at
                least 1.5 to 2 inches longer. Pin them together with the extra obi fabric
                sticking out both ends, and sew the tube. Clip the extra
                trigger/interfacing close to the seam, and press the seam flat. Pull it
                inside out, fold the outside silk in at the ends to the trigger, and then
                close in what ever way you like (top stitch, whip stitch, etc). When you
                press it flat, you get a good amount of stability and strength from the
                trigger. I tend to also top stitch down both lengths of the obi or waist
                tie when I do this, so that the trigger is firmly affixed under the silk.
                This has worked very well for me, and I don't get the "crumpled band" that
                I get with plain silk or cotton obis or ties.

                I have started doing this with collars too, and so far, it seems to really
                help stiffen them up.

                Furukusu Masahide

                Original Message:
                -----------------
                1a. Sewing an Obi
                Posted by: "jenmcnitt" jennifer.mcnitt@... jenmcnitt
                Date: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:19 pm ((PDT))

                I'm currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode, Hakama
                and Uchikake I just made.

                This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering what
                would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of sewing
                the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing it.
                Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert to
                give the Obi a bit more stiffness.

                What would be the best way to add in some type of insert? Would I be
                able to insert it after I turn it rightside out?

                Any suggestions are welcome.

                Thanks!

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              • sfandra
                (apologies if this comes through twice) Most humble greetings unto the noble personages of this list. This person is new to the study of japanese garb, having
                Message 7 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
                  (apologies if this comes through twice)

                  Most humble greetings unto the noble personages of this list.

                  This person is new to the study of japanese garb, having planned to
                  make a hitatare sugata for a friend in the SCA with a Momoyama period
                  samurai persona as a gift of appreciation for his moving performance
                  of a poem/song in japanese at the Last Court of Lucan VII of the East.

                  Humbly this person asks firstly, is the hitatare sugata a good choice
                  for court garb for a Momoyama period samurai of sho hachi-i rank?

                  Secondly, as the most noble friend is also a squire, this person had
                  planned on providing a red obi as part of this gift. Was the obi
                  ever decorated with embroidery?

                  Many thanks unto the noble assembly from this most unworthy newcomer.

                  In Service,

                  Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
                • Lori Hannis
                  Greetings to the list! while I ve never sewn an obi, (yet). I have however sewn really really long belts out of fabric and had to make them very stiff I took
                  Message 8 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
                    Greetings to the list!

                    while I've never sewn an obi, (yet). I have however sewn really really long belts out of fabric
                    and had to make them very stiff

                    I took the fabric about 4 times as wide as i want the finished product.

                    So, if i want it 2 inches, i cut it 8 inches x length.

                    Then....i lay it flat, and put pellon or something similar down the middle of it, folding the uncovered sides into the middle....and stich down each side
                    So...somewhat like this

                    ___________________________________________________

                    XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
                    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
                    ___________________________________________________

                    where the x's are is where the pellon reaches too...so the middle half of the belt.

                    i stitch down the middle of the pellon to hold it in place, then fold the unpelloned edges into the middle...sewing down each selvedge edge

                    Then fold again in half so it's gone from being 8 inches, to two.

                    then I sew straight seams down 3 places, so it's good...stiff and strong.

                    While I've never sewn an obi, i have used this on modern kimono collars, and it made them very good and stiff and the people i made them for adored them.

                    Whether accurate, or not I really don't know

                    Emeline/Yumi


                    Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass
                    it's learning to dance in the rain.
                    Unknown.


                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • wodeford
                    ... http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.ch02.html Hitatare are formal dress for the samurai class in the period you are describing. ... Hard to say
                    Message 9 of 10 , Oct 20, 2007
                      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, Sfandra <seonaid13@...> wrote:
                      > First, it the hitatare sugata an appropriate choice
                      > for a samurai of Sho-hachi-i rank for wear into SCA
                      > court?
                      http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.ch02.html
                      Hitatare are "formal" dress for the samurai class in the period you
                      are describing.

                      > Secondly, as this person's friend is also a squire,
                      > this person had thought to make a red obi for the
                      > friend as well. Was the obi ever decorated with
                      > embroidery?

                      Hard to say because I have not come across any extant obi from that
                      period. My gut feeling is probably not. According to my textile books,
                      there are embroideries from early in our period and then the fashion
                      disappears for several centuries. When it comes back, it's in
                      imitation of Chinese imports, and a poor imitation at that. (If anyone
                      else has more information, please chime in!)

                      BTW, if you look at the pictures of hitatare at the link I posted, you
                      can't see the obi because it's UNDER the hakama ties.

                      If you make him an uwa obi to wear with his fighting kit, I'm thinking
                      embroidery might not be the most practical thing anyway. It's
                      basically a simple, folded strip of cloth.
                      http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/uwaobi.html

                      (Embroidery DOES appear in women's obi well after our period. Which
                      doesn't help you, I know.)

                      Saionji no Hanae
                      West Kingdom
                      West
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