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Sewing an Obi

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  • jenmcnitt
    I m currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode, Hakama and Uchikake I just made. This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering
    Message 1 of 10 , Oct 14, 2007
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      I'm currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode, Hakama
      and Uchikake I just made.

      This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering what
      would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of sewing
      the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing it.
      Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert to
      give the Obi a bit more stiffness.

      What would be the best way to add in some type of insert? Would I be
      able to insert it after I turn it rightside out?

      Any suggestions are welcome.

      Thanks!
    • luannesews2001
      What is the weight/stiffness of the silk you are using for the obi and what is the finished width of your tube? You might be better to completely interline
      Message 2 of 10 , Oct 14, 2007
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        What is the weight/stiffness of the silk you are using for the obi
        and what is the finished width of your tube? You might be better to
        completely interline it, or you may be able to use a piece of sewn-in
        interfacing of some sort. Don't use any kind of iron-on sticky-
        backed interfacing.

        Luighseach

        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "jenmcnitt" <jennifer.mcnitt@...>
        wrote:
        >
        > I'm currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode,
        Hakama
        > and Uchikake I just made.
        >
        > This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering what
        > would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of
        sewing
        > the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing it.
        > Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert to
        > give the Obi a bit more stiffness.
        >
        > What would be the best way to add in some type of insert? Would I
        be
        > able to insert it after I turn it rightside out?
        >
        > Any suggestions are welcome.
        >
        > Thanks!
        >
      • jenmcnitt
        The silk is one of the heavier ones that I could find, but it is not stiff at all. Based off a suggestion I found I was going to use a denim fabric to help
        Message 3 of 10 , Oct 14, 2007
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          The silk is one of the heavier ones that I could find, but it is not
          stiff at all. Based off a suggestion I found I was going to use a
          denim fabric to help stiffen.

          That might be too heavy if I used it as an interline, butI might be
          able to find something else that I have onhand to use.

          The instructions I was reading are here:

          http://www.raito.com/clothing.htm

          --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "luannesews2001" <Luiseach@...> wrote:
          >
          > What is the weight/stiffness of the silk you are using for the obi
          > and what is the finished width of your tube? You might be better
          to
          > completely interline it, or you may be able to use a piece of sewn-
          in
          > interfacing of some sort. Don't use any kind of iron-on sticky-
          > backed interfacing.
          >
          > Luighseach
          >
          > --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "jenmcnitt" <jennifer.mcnitt@>
          > wrote:
          > >
          > > I'm currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode,
          > Hakama
          > > and Uchikake I just made.
          > >
          > > This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering
          what
          > > would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of
          > sewing
          > > the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing
          it.
          > > Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert
          to
          > > give the Obi a bit more stiffness.
          > >
          > > What would be the best way to add in some type of insert? Would
          I
          > be
          > > able to insert it after I turn it rightside out?
          > >
          > > Any suggestions are welcome.
          > >
          > > Thanks!
          > >
          >
        • wodeford
          ... If this is a lightweight silk, I suggest you buy some medium to heavy weight interfacing (it should feel almost as stiff as an index card). Having
          Message 4 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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            --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "jenmcnitt" <jennifer.mcnitt@...> wrote:
            > This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering what
            > would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of sewing
            > the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing it.
            > Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert to
            > give the Obi a bit more stiffness.

            If this is a lightweight silk, I suggest you buy some medium to heavy
            weight interfacing (it should feel almost as stiff as an index card).
            Having deconstructed a couple of modern hanhaba obi to make them into
            period widths, I can confirm that modern obi do incorporate interfacing.

            Cut the interfacing to the width you want. Fold your obi fabric
            lengthwise and press with the interfacing tucked inside the fold.
            Check to see if you need to trim the interfacing a little narrower at
            this point. Then press the edges of the obi fabric under so it can be
            sewn together. You can either blindstitch everything closed by hand or
            machine sew it. Trust me, this is easier than trying to turn a two
            yard long, two inch wide tube inside out.

            Saionji no Hanae
            West
          • Sfandra
            Greetings noble personages, This person is very new to japanese research, having undertaken to create a hitatare sugata for a friend with a momoyama period
            Message 5 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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              Greetings noble personages,

              This person is very new to japanese research, having
              undertaken to create a hitatare sugata for a friend
              with a momoyama period samurai persona in the SCA.

              There are two questions, which this person hopes the
              knowledgeable personages of this list would deign to
              answer.

              First, it the hitatare sugata an appropriate choice
              for a samurai of Sho-hachi-i rank for wear into SCA
              court?

              Secondly, as this person's friend is also a squire,
              this person had thought to make a red obi for the
              friend as well. Was the obi ever decorated with
              embroidery?

              Most humble thanks for your noble attention,

              In Service,

              Posadnitsa Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova

              ******************
              Posadnitsa Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
              KOE, Maunche, Apprentice to Maitresse Irene LeNoir
              Haus Von Drakenklaue
              Kingdom of the East
              ******************
              Never 'pearl' your butt.


              ____________________________________________________________________________________
              Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more!
              http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658
            • Solveig Throndardottir
              Noble Cousins! Greetings from Solveig! 1. I recommend coarse weave interfacing. 2. Your obi should not be all that wide. The fat obis which you commonly see
              Message 6 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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                Noble Cousins!

                Greetings from Solveig!

                1. I recommend coarse weave interfacing.

                2. Your "obi" should not be all that wide. The fat obis which you
                commonly see are pretty much an Edo innovation.

                Your Humble Servant
                Solveig Throndardottir
                Amateur Scholar





                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • masahide@summerscauldron.com
                Greetings Jennifer, I make NO assurance that this is a period technique, but this is what I have tried successfully. When I m using a thin silk and I want it
                Message 7 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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                  Greetings Jennifer,

                  I make NO assurance that this is a period technique, but this is what I
                  have tried successfully.

                  When I'm using a thin silk and I want it for ties on Hakama (and this can
                  be done for an obi as well), what I have done is to use a heavier fabric,
                  such as trigger, as the interfacing. I would use a tube technique that you
                  suggest. Cut the trigger/interfacing to the same width as the obi fabric,
                  and the length you want the finished obi to be. Cut your obi fabric at
                  least 1.5 to 2 inches longer. Pin them together with the extra obi fabric
                  sticking out both ends, and sew the tube. Clip the extra
                  trigger/interfacing close to the seam, and press the seam flat. Pull it
                  inside out, fold the outside silk in at the ends to the trigger, and then
                  close in what ever way you like (top stitch, whip stitch, etc). When you
                  press it flat, you get a good amount of stability and strength from the
                  trigger. I tend to also top stitch down both lengths of the obi or waist
                  tie when I do this, so that the trigger is firmly affixed under the silk.
                  This has worked very well for me, and I don't get the "crumpled band" that
                  I get with plain silk or cotton obis or ties.

                  I have started doing this with collars too, and so far, it seems to really
                  help stiffen them up.

                  Furukusu Masahide

                  Original Message:
                  -----------------
                  1a. Sewing an Obi
                  Posted by: "jenmcnitt" jennifer.mcnitt@... jenmcnitt
                  Date: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:19 pm ((PDT))

                  I'm currently planning on making an Obi to go with the Kosode, Hakama
                  and Uchikake I just made.

                  This is my first attempt at Japanese garb, and I was wondering what
                  would be the best way to sew the Obi. I was first thinking of sewing
                  the Obi into a tube, turning it inside out and then pressing it.
                  Since I'm using silk though, I wanted to add some type of insert to
                  give the Obi a bit more stiffness.

                  What would be the best way to add in some type of insert? Would I be
                  able to insert it after I turn it rightside out?

                  Any suggestions are welcome.

                  Thanks!

                  --------------------------------------------------------------------
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                • sfandra
                  (apologies if this comes through twice) Most humble greetings unto the noble personages of this list. This person is new to the study of japanese garb, having
                  Message 8 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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                    (apologies if this comes through twice)

                    Most humble greetings unto the noble personages of this list.

                    This person is new to the study of japanese garb, having planned to
                    make a hitatare sugata for a friend in the SCA with a Momoyama period
                    samurai persona as a gift of appreciation for his moving performance
                    of a poem/song in japanese at the Last Court of Lucan VII of the East.

                    Humbly this person asks firstly, is the hitatare sugata a good choice
                    for court garb for a Momoyama period samurai of sho hachi-i rank?

                    Secondly, as the most noble friend is also a squire, this person had
                    planned on providing a red obi as part of this gift. Was the obi
                    ever decorated with embroidery?

                    Many thanks unto the noble assembly from this most unworthy newcomer.

                    In Service,

                    Sfandra Dmitrieva iz Chernigova
                  • Lori Hannis
                    Greetings to the list! while I ve never sewn an obi, (yet). I have however sewn really really long belts out of fabric and had to make them very stiff I took
                    Message 9 of 10 , Oct 15, 2007
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                      Greetings to the list!

                      while I've never sewn an obi, (yet). I have however sewn really really long belts out of fabric
                      and had to make them very stiff

                      I took the fabric about 4 times as wide as i want the finished product.

                      So, if i want it 2 inches, i cut it 8 inches x length.

                      Then....i lay it flat, and put pellon or something similar down the middle of it, folding the uncovered sides into the middle....and stich down each side
                      So...somewhat like this

                      ___________________________________________________

                      XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
                      ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                      XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
                      ___________________________________________________

                      where the x's are is where the pellon reaches too...so the middle half of the belt.

                      i stitch down the middle of the pellon to hold it in place, then fold the unpelloned edges into the middle...sewing down each selvedge edge

                      Then fold again in half so it's gone from being 8 inches, to two.

                      then I sew straight seams down 3 places, so it's good...stiff and strong.

                      While I've never sewn an obi, i have used this on modern kimono collars, and it made them very good and stiff and the people i made them for adored them.

                      Whether accurate, or not I really don't know

                      Emeline/Yumi


                      Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass
                      it's learning to dance in the rain.
                      Unknown.


                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • wodeford
                      ... http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.ch02.html Hitatare are formal dress for the samurai class in the period you are describing. ... Hard to say
                      Message 10 of 10 , Oct 20, 2007
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                        --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, Sfandra <seonaid13@...> wrote:
                        > First, it the hitatare sugata an appropriate choice
                        > for a samurai of Sho-hachi-i rank for wear into SCA
                        > court?
                        http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.ch02.html
                        Hitatare are "formal" dress for the samurai class in the period you
                        are describing.

                        > Secondly, as this person's friend is also a squire,
                        > this person had thought to make a red obi for the
                        > friend as well. Was the obi ever decorated with
                        > embroidery?

                        Hard to say because I have not come across any extant obi from that
                        period. My gut feeling is probably not. According to my textile books,
                        there are embroideries from early in our period and then the fashion
                        disappears for several centuries. When it comes back, it's in
                        imitation of Chinese imports, and a poor imitation at that. (If anyone
                        else has more information, please chime in!)

                        BTW, if you look at the pictures of hitatare at the link I posted, you
                        can't see the obi because it's UNDER the hakama ties.

                        If you make him an uwa obi to wear with his fighting kit, I'm thinking
                        embroidery might not be the most practical thing anyway. It's
                        basically a simple, folded strip of cloth.
                        http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/uwaobi.html

                        (Embroidery DOES appear in women's obi well after our period. Which
                        doesn't help you, I know.)

                        Saionji no Hanae
                        West Kingdom
                        West
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