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Re: Long Shot Question on Fabrics

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  • madnative81
    As a fellow weaver I m more than happy to help you how I can. In response to your questions: A) For an up and coming project very similar to what your looking
    Message 1 of 11 , Jun 4, 2005
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      As a fellow weaver I'm more than happy to help you how I can.
      In response to your questions: A) For an up and coming project very
      similar to what your looking to do, I'm planning to use a 16/4 or
      16/2 thickness of silk thread, either one is not as preferred to a
      14/2, but they're what I have readily available to me and personally
      I feel that either one has a more period look since one must remember
      that the sericen in Heian silk wasn't removed completely due to the
      technology of the time. B)Show me a fabric with 300 epi and I'll show
      you something machine made. Unless a home-weaver can find a special
      order reed, most reeds on the market max out at 50 dpi for what I
      know. So unless you double up the threads in each dent, and use
      gossamer fine thread, I could only see getting 100 epi at most.
      Also, keeping the warp spread out a bit will make it more gauzy and
      more summer appropriate. :)
      Hope this helps!

      Ja me ta!
      Fujiwara no Nagamochi

      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "cschutrick" <cschutrick@y...> wrote:
      > I'm sure I'm unlikely to find anyone here with the specific
      > technical knowledge I'm looking for, but I figure I might at least
      > get pointed in the right direction...
      >
      > A couple of sources mention that there were some popular fabrics
      for
      > Heian-era summer robes that have a warp of one color and a weft of
      > another. Since I think it unlikely that I'm going to find fabric
      of
      > the proper weight and colors for sale--at least at anything
      > resembling a price I can afford--I'm clearly going to have to weave
      > the stuff myself.
      >
      > (Brief pause while I consider the insanity of that statement. OK,
      > moving on...)
      >
      > Might anyone have a clue as to a) what size thread would be
      > reasonable or b) how may ends/picks per inch I'm looking at? I'm a
      > little less enthusiastic about 300 epi than 30, for example, and if
      > the fabric needs the former I think I'll just resign myself to
      > faking it.
      >
      > I am considerably hampered in my search for information by a
      > distinct lack of ability to read Japanese, I should note.
      >
      > --Hino no Miyuke
    • cschutrick
      ... I m actually thinking of the yellow/blue-green. :) But I presume the same principles apply to both. ... Thank you, that s very handy. Now I need to talk
      Message 2 of 11 , Jun 6, 2005
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        >> ...warp of one color and a weft of another.
        > That lavender and blue-green one, right? ;->

        I'm actually thinking of the yellow/blue-green. :) But I presume the
        same principles apply to both.

        > Please forgive me if I don't understand any of this (I know
        > jack about weaving!), but I'll at least try to list them, along
        > with their Japanese names for you:
        > [snip list of weaves]

        Thank you, that's very handy. Now I need to talk my mom out of her
        loom, which has languished in a closet since I was approimately 5...

        --Hino no Miyuke
      • cschutrick
        ... Thanks! You wouldn t have any idea how much...agh, blanking on the actual term. How much shorter my warp is going to get going over and under. I m going
        Message 3 of 11 , Jun 6, 2005
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          > As a fellow weaver I'm more than happy to help you how I can.
          > [snip various useful info]

          Thanks! You wouldn't have any idea how much...agh, blanking on the
          actual term. How much shorter my warp is going to get going over and
          under. I'm going to need roughly ten yards of the stuff per robe, and
          it would be terribly painful to not have enough.

          --Hino no Miyuke
        • makiwara_no_yetsuko
          ... No, but I found this stuff on a random ramble yesterday:
          Message 4 of 11 , Jun 6, 2005
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            --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "cschutrick" <cschutrick@y...> wrote:
            > > As a fellow weaver I'm more than happy to help you how I can.
            > > [snip various useful info]
            >
            > Thanks! You wouldn't have any idea how much...agh, blanking on the
            > actual term. How much shorter my warp is going to get going over and
            > under. I'm going to need roughly ten yards of the stuff per robe, and
            > it would be terribly painful to not have enough.

            No, but I found this stuff on a random ramble yesterday:

            http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SIcd9979&Category_Code=SI-ta&Product_Cou
            nt=3

            Makiwara
          • cschutrick
            ... Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SIcd9979&Category_Code=SI-ta&Product_Cou ... Ah, so close! The right colors, at least to a first approximation, and at 54 inches
            Message 5 of 11 , Jun 6, 2005
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              > No, but I found this stuff on a random ramble yesterday:

              > http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
              Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SIcd9979&Category_Code=SI-ta&Product_Cou
              > nt=3

              Ah, so close! The right colors, at least to a first approximation,
              and at 54 inches wide I could even afford enough. :) Its only flaw is
              that it's about 5 times too heavy--gauze is more like 3-4 mome, this
              stuff is 18.

              Thank you, Makiwara, I have more hope now. ;)

              --Hino no Miyuke
            • madnative81
              Hino-dono, Considering that silk is so fine, I would think the warp uptake to be neglegant, MAYBE 5% max. Otherwise when I m doing rugs or tablet weaving the
              Message 6 of 11 , Jun 6, 2005
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                Hino-dono,

                Considering that silk is so fine, I would think the warp uptake to be
                neglegant, MAYBE 5% max. Otherwise when I'm doing rugs or tablet
                weaving the most uptake I've noticed is 20%, and that's darn near
                pushing it. So for your 10 yards of fabric per robe, with out knowing
                what kind of loom your using, 11.5 yards of warp should have you
                covered from breast to warp beam. Just curious, how wide do you plan
                to make your piece? Keep in mind that 18" is period, and after going
                through the work of weaving, it's nice not to have to cut much and lose
                all that gorgeous work, especially when it's silk.

                Happy Throeing!
                Fujiwara no Nagamochi

                --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "cschutrick" <cschutrick@y...> wrote:
                > > As a fellow weaver I'm more than happy to help you how I can.
                > > [snip various useful info]
                >
                > Thanks! You wouldn't have any idea how much...agh, blanking on the
                > actual term. How much shorter my warp is going to get going over and
                > under. I'm going to need roughly ten yards of the stuff per robe,
                and
                > it would be terribly painful to not have enough.
                >
                > --Hino no Miyuke
              • madnative81
                So after visiting my local fiber store and receiving some technical assistance from the on-staff weaver, she informed me that my two o- sode project would run
                Message 7 of 11 , Jun 8, 2005
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                  So after visiting my local fiber store and receiving some technical
                  assistance from the on-staff weaver, she informed me that my two o-
                  sode project would run me 300 epi and $150. Sorry for any mis-
                  guidance. :o( Even doing it in cotton is going to be more expensive
                  than just buying the bleedin' fabric.

                  Namban with head hung low in shame
                  Nagamochi

                  --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "cschutrick" <cschutrick@y...> wrote:
                  > I'm sure I'm unlikely to find anyone here with the specific
                  > technical knowledge I'm looking for, but I figure I might at least
                  > get pointed in the right direction...
                  >
                  > A couple of sources mention that there were some popular fabrics
                  for
                  > Heian-era summer robes that have a warp of one color and a weft of
                  > another. Since I think it unlikely that I'm going to find fabric
                  of
                  > the proper weight and colors for sale--at least at anything
                  > resembling a price I can afford--I'm clearly going to have to weave
                  > the stuff myself.
                  >
                  > (Brief pause while I consider the insanity of that statement. OK,
                  > moving on...)
                  >
                  > Might anyone have a clue as to a) what size thread would be
                  > reasonable or b) how may ends/picks per inch I'm looking at? I'm a
                  > little less enthusiastic about 300 epi than 30, for example, and if
                  > the fabric needs the former I think I'll just resign myself to
                  > faking it.
                  >
                  > I am considerably hampered in my search for information by a
                  > distinct lack of ability to read Japanese, I should note.
                  >
                  > --Hino no Miyuke
                • cschutrick
                  ... I m pleased to hear my gut feeling confirmed. :) ... Well, I m thinking that ~18 should do it, which is why I need 10 yards of the stuff for one robe. :)
                  Message 8 of 11 , Jun 8, 2005
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                    > Considering that silk is so fine, I would think the warp uptake
                    > to be neglegant, MAYBE 5% max.

                    I'm pleased to hear my gut feeling confirmed. :)

                    > Just curious, how wide do you plan to make your piece?

                    Well, I'm thinking that ~18" should do it, which is why I need 10
                    yards of the stuff for one robe. :) It'll be a heck of a lot of
                    warping, that's for sure. I doubt my ability to keep the width firmly
                    constant, so as long as it ends up between 17" and 18" I'll call it
                    good; the differences can be made up in the sewing.

                    --Hino no Miyuke
                  • cschutrick
                    ... Me, I just can t find the fabric; it s weave it myself or nothing. :) 300 epi, though...I ll have to think er over... --Hino no Miyuke
                    Message 9 of 11 , Jun 8, 2005
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                      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "madnative81" <gacarlisle@m...> wrote:
                      > So after visiting my local fiber store and receiving some technical
                      > assistance from the on-staff weaver, she informed me that my two o-
                      > sode project would run me 300 epi and $150. Sorry for any mis-
                      > guidance. :o( Even doing it in cotton is going to be more expensive
                      > than just buying the bleedin' fabric.

                      Me, I just can't find the fabric; it's weave it myself or nothing. :)
                      300 epi, though...I'll have to think 'er over...

                      --Hino no Miyuke
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