Smart Fabric Shopping, was Re: my first Hakama
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Donald Luby <djl@t...> wrote:
> Don't know Thorny Rose, but lots of fabric merchants have decentRosamund's currently advertising it on her website at that price,
> deals on noil - the going good rate seems to be $5/yd, you may get
> better depending on amount you purchase, whether you buy the whole
> bolt, and how late in the war it is.
and says she's got lots of colors available:
She usually does Pennsic and one might be able to arrange a deal on
a large order - certainly can't hurt to try.
> If you look hard, you can also find less-slubby dupioni; I gotFor anyone hunting for silks on line, Dharma Trading
> some on eBay a while back, but that merchant has since ceased
> selling fabric now they seem to only do jewelry).
(http://www.dharmatrading.com), Thai Silks
(http://www.thaisilks.com) and Rupert Gibbon & Spider
(http://www.silkconnection.com) are all worth checking out for those
who are looking for affordable silk. Buy it in white and dye it
yourself - and DO ask for swatch samples first. It's often hard to
judge what kind of body the fabric is like by a verbal description
and swatches will help.
> Well, yeah, I have to agree on that; what I should have saidThey're not awful, certainly. However, I've seen ludicrous prices on
> was "most fabric stores have a decent range of cotton calicos, a
> small group of which are passably acceptable as Japanese-ish to
> people who aren't very familiar with period Japanese textiles". I
> certainly used them for years (until I learned better), and got no
> grief over them from any of the more authentically-minded Japanese
cotton prints in a lot of fabric stores, sometimes as high as
$8.99/yard for things labeled "kimono prints." At that price it's
just painful. ;-<
If one isn't sure, it's pretty hard to go wrong with solid colors.
(That's a good rule of thumb for making beginner European clothing
too!) For the budget conscious, you can get solid colored fabrics
that are sturdier than calico and avoid the limp hakama look. One
wants something with enough body to hold a nice crease and not be
too wimpy to stand up to the inevitable wear and tear of living on
the ground a lot. For our novice fabric shoppers, think chinos, not
bed sheets. ;->
> Though I would not recommend such a high goal for someone'sKore, you're such a GUY. Japanese IS all about the textiles. ;->
> earlier garb, just because having enough garb to wear, even if
> it's sub-optimal, is better than having none because you're
> working on the perfect outfit.
Though I am familiar with the "OMIGOD I need enough to get through
Pennsic" sewing rush. On the other hand, if the Big Box Craft Store
wants $4.99/yard for a vaguely Oriental cotton print that isn't
quite right and you can get solid colored silk noil, or a cotton
linen blend for a maybe a buck more? It's possible to shop smart and
end up with starter wear that one won't be embarrassed to wear in
six months. It certainly wasn't possible for ME (my early European
stuff was so bad I was too embarrassed to donate it to Gold Key)!
That was because I was too stubborn to ask for help. (Me? Stubborn?)
Buddying up with a more experienced clothing maker for a trip to the
fabric store, even if they don't do Japanese, is a good idea. They
can help you shop smart, dig through the remnant tables for
bargains, tell you frankly if you're going to look like a cheap sofa
cushion when you pick up the jacquard with the big cabbage roses,
etc. Investing in a bolt of cheap muslin for making mock-ups is a
great way to practice before cutting into better fabric. Buddying up
with a few friends to split the cost of an entire bolt of linen or
silk is a great way to take advantage of whole bolt discounts from
some of the on-line dealers too.
Goodness, I'm rattling on, aren't I? I hope this information is
helpful to our novice clothing makers.
- Evening Solveig,
>I do think that you should explain your::end snip::
>reasoning about raised patterns in pattern
>welded blades a bit more. Certainly tang
>inscriptions are always engraved.
I am presently working on several articles that I may wind up being at the core of a class I'm being encouraged to teach on period Nihonto. When I get them done I will also be posting them here for people to have available on the list.
As far as raised patterns in damascus style steels, or information and examples of pattern welded works, I would recommend reading a couple of books by Dr. Jim Hrislaous (sp) and Derryl Meier. (They used to be available on amazon.com)
The above mentioned gentlemen in their books answer just about any queston you could come up with on the subject of pattern welding both modern and primitive and do a much better job expalaining it than I could, without having to write a book length post on it. (And they provide step by step pictures showing the various techniques and processes.)
My articles probably will not cover those tecniques because they would be outside the scope of what I am trying to accomplish. You are certainly correct in your assesment that they were not used on swords in period, I do not think that it is beyond the capability of the smiths, it would be like mounting a glass bead in the striking face of a warhammer, not that it couldn't be done, but why on earth would you want to.