Re: [SCA-JML] Re: my first Hakama
- On Aug 2, 2004, at 5:29 PM, makiwara_no_yetsuko wrote:
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Donald Luby <djl@t...> wrote:I've actually known people who prefer the feel of noil to habotai,
>> You could also go with habotai
>> ("china silk") or noil ("raw silk"), both of which I'd recommend in
>> the 10 mm - 14 mm range.
> Habotai is smooth. Noil has little slubs and pills in it and
> sometimes has an odor until it's washed a few times. While modern
> sensibilities sometimes like slubs and imperfections, our ancestors
> would've considered such imperfections a fault.
especially against their skin; I've also found some very 'fine' (as
opposed to coarse) noil, with little to no slubbing in it.
> That having beenDon't know Thorny Rose, but lots of fabric merchants have decent deals
> said, however, you can often find good deals on "raw silk" in a range
> of solid colors. (Those of you going to Pennsic should look for a
> merchant called Thorny Rose, she usually sells raw silk yardage in
> addition to European clothing.)
on noil - the going good rate seems to be $5/yd, you may get better
depending on amount you purchase, whether you buy the whole bolt, and
how late in the war it is.
>> You can also get away with cotton or linen solids, though I'dYeah, they're a good site. I get my linen from other sources usually
>> buying the linen online, since most local fabric stores are way
>> over-priced in that regard for some reason.
> www.fabrics-store.com has a good selection of 100% linen. I use them
> for a lot of my European stuff.
(I have a friend who buys linen via her connections in the garment
district in NYC, or I go to JoMar in Philly), but they have good prices
> www.fabric.com does all kinds ofIf you look hard, you can also find less-slubby dupioni; I got some on
> fabric (sometimes some really great deals on solid colored dupioni -
> a slubby silk which is much nicer than noil even so).
eBay a while back, but that merchant has since ceased selling fabric
(now they seem to only do jewelry).
>> If you want something a bit fancier-looking, it once again comes downWell, yeah, I have to agree on that; what I should have said was "most
>> to price. Most fabric stores have a decent range of cotton calicos
> I have to disagree with Koredono on this one: Most modern cotton
> prints just do not look like period Japanese textiles, generally
> because the prints are smaller.
fabric stores have a decent range of cotton calicos, a small group of
which are passably acceptable as Japanese-ish to people who aren't very
familiar with period Japanese textiles". I certainly used them for
years (until I learned better), and got no grief over them from any of
the more authentically-minded Japanese folks.
> Go to www.iz2.or.jp/english andCertainly. Though I would not recommend such a high goal for someone's
> browse both the costume examples and the textile gallery. It'll give
> you an idea of what patterned textiles from period should look like,
> and seeing the garments on the mannequins will give you an idea of
> the scale of the designs. The good news is that if you are so
> inclined, you can use fabric paint to simulate the look of these
> larger period designs. (I did this on an uchigi and I have pics at
> http://www.geocities.com/wodeford/i_am_the_display.htm )
earlier garb, just because having enough garb to wear, even if it's
sub-optimal, is better than having none because you're working on the
>> I learned the hard way, over the years: if the fabric is right, theKoredono
>> clothes won't look right, and now with the advent of the internet,
>> they're readily available to us as they were not before.
> That I will agree with!
> Best of luck in your clothing construction efforts!
- Evening Solveig,
>I do think that you should explain your::end snip::
>reasoning about raised patterns in pattern
>welded blades a bit more. Certainly tang
>inscriptions are always engraved.
I am presently working on several articles that I may wind up being at the core of a class I'm being encouraged to teach on period Nihonto. When I get them done I will also be posting them here for people to have available on the list.
As far as raised patterns in damascus style steels, or information and examples of pattern welded works, I would recommend reading a couple of books by Dr. Jim Hrislaous (sp) and Derryl Meier. (They used to be available on amazon.com)
The above mentioned gentlemen in their books answer just about any queston you could come up with on the subject of pattern welding both modern and primitive and do a much better job expalaining it than I could, without having to write a book length post on it. (And they provide step by step pictures showing the various techniques and processes.)
My articles probably will not cover those tecniques because they would be outside the scope of what I am trying to accomplish. You are certainly correct in your assesment that they were not used on swords in period, I do not think that it is beyond the capability of the smiths, it would be like mounting a glass bead in the striking face of a warhammer, not that it couldn't be done, but why on earth would you want to.