Re: my first Hakama
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Donald Luby <djl@t...> wrote:
> You could also go with habotaiHabotai is smooth. Noil has little slubs and pills in it and
> ("china silk") or noil ("raw silk"), both of which I'd recommend in
> the 10 mm - 14 mm range.
sometimes has an odor until it's washed a few times. While modern
sensibilities sometimes like slubs and imperfections, our ancestors
would've considered such imperfections a fault. That having been
said, however, you can often find good deals on "raw silk" in a range
of solid colors. (Those of you going to Pennsic should look for a
merchant called Thorny Rose, she usually sells raw silk yardage in
addition to European clothing.)
> You can also get away with cotton or linen solids, though I'drecommend
> buying the linen online, since most local fabric stores are waywww.fabrics-store.com has a good selection of 100% linen. I use them
> over-priced in that regard for some reason.
for a lot of my European stuff. www.fabric.com does all kinds of
fabric (sometimes some really great deals on solid colored dupioni -
a slubby silk which is much nicer than noil even so).
> If you want something a bit fancier-looking, it once again comesdown
> to price. Most fabric stores have a decent range of cotton calicosI have to disagree with Koredono on this one: Most modern cotton
prints just do not look like period Japanese textiles, generally
because the prints are smaller. Go to www.iz2.or.jp/english and
browse both the costume examples and the textile gallery. It'll give
you an idea of what patterned textiles from period should look like,
and seeing the garments on the mannequins will give you an idea of
the scale of the designs. The good news is that if you are so
inclined, you can use fabric paint to simulate the look of these
larger period designs. (I did this on an uchigi and I have pics at
> I learned the hard way, over the years: if the fabric is right, theThat I will agree with!
> clothes won't look right, and now with the advent of the internet,
> they're readily available to us as they were not before.
Best of luck in your clothing construction efforts!
- Evening Solveig,
>I do think that you should explain your::end snip::
>reasoning about raised patterns in pattern
>welded blades a bit more. Certainly tang
>inscriptions are always engraved.
I am presently working on several articles that I may wind up being at the core of a class I'm being encouraged to teach on period Nihonto. When I get them done I will also be posting them here for people to have available on the list.
As far as raised patterns in damascus style steels, or information and examples of pattern welded works, I would recommend reading a couple of books by Dr. Jim Hrislaous (sp) and Derryl Meier. (They used to be available on amazon.com)
The above mentioned gentlemen in their books answer just about any queston you could come up with on the subject of pattern welding both modern and primitive and do a much better job expalaining it than I could, without having to write a book length post on it. (And they provide step by step pictures showing the various techniques and processes.)
My articles probably will not cover those tecniques because they would be outside the scope of what I am trying to accomplish. You are certainly correct in your assesment that they were not used on swords in period, I do not think that it is beyond the capability of the smiths, it would be like mounting a glass bead in the striking face of a warhammer, not that it couldn't be done, but why on earth would you want to.