Re: [SCA-JML] Re: Questions on basic armor construction techniques
- Otoshi, Thanks for you response. The radius on the
bend of the lame, if that is an accurate description.
The bend on the front that I have done have a flat
middle then taper off on the side. This was very hard
to judge. Ok this does lead me into another question.
In the process of bending the lames what are you using
to hold all the pieces together? I was using two 2x6
sitting down on the 2� side, and then placing the lame
on it as I bent the lames. I guess I need to see Armor
in person not just from book. It the 3D thing that I�m
getting all wrong I guess.
Thanks again for your time patients.
--- raijin31 <otoshi2@...> wrote:
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "a1channel"=====
> <a1channel@y...> wrote:
> > Hello all, I have been doing my home work on Armor
> > 1) Hinge construction, on a Go-Mai Haramaki style
> Do. I would
> > like to make the hinge from the lames. What would
> be the best
> > approach? I have experimented with different
> approaches but they
> > not look like what I'm seeing in the books and web
> sites that I
> > been using as a reference. What is the
> traditional way of hinge
> > construction? How would you account for the over
> lap from lame to
> > lame. This over lap was throwing off what I though
> was right. I did
> > look in the Armor Archive for a good example, but
> I did not find
> any thing.
> Sorry, I can't help you on this one. I'm not sure
> exactly what you
> are asking and my copy of Effingham's patterns are
> at home...
> > 2) Shaping of the lames, on a Okegawa Style Do.
> What would be a
> > good way to keep the same bend in the lames? I
> have been just
> bending them with my hands and trying light hammer
> hit to get them.
> So what would be the best and most true traditional
> way to do this? I
> have thought of using some sort of wooden form, but
> have not yet
> > experimented with it.
> You have a couple of options: #1)find someone with
> a 3-bar roller.
> This will allow you to put a 2-dimensional curve in
> the lames and
> keep them all uniform. #2) You will either need to
> dish (placing the
> steel over a tool called, appropriately, a dishing
> tool, or over a
> wooden stump with a small 'bowl' cut into it), or
> you will have to
> use a large planishing ball to form the steel over
> it. Using a
> rawhide or rubber mallet, you lightly pound the
> steel into the
> depression of your dishing stump or tool, causing it
> to curve, or you
> pound it over your ball to cause it to curve. Even
> an old used
> bowling ball will work for a planishing ball.
> However, the main use
> for a planishing ball is to remove fine blemishes
> and hammer marks
> that are made when dishing.
> > 3) A bevel on the edge of the lames. I have seen
> what looks to
> > me some sort of rounded edge on that lames, what
> would be the
> correct name and how would one recreate it.
> That is also used with a small hammer and the edge
> of an anvil or
> other tool. If you have a local armorer in your
> area, this
> particular technique is something best demonstrated
> rather than attempted to describe in written form.
> Kinda like trying
> to describe what an orange tastes like to someone
> who has never
> tasted an orange....
> > Thanks in advance for your time and patients.
> > Chris Cole
> In service,
A star that burns twice as bright burns half as long.
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