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Re: Sword stuff, was: Looking for patterns for Edo period Kamishimo

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  • Yama Kaminari no Date Saburou Yukiie
    Binsu-dono, Without seeing the damaged saya, I am hesitant to offer much in the way of anything but general advice on how to repair the nicks. I have made a
    Message 1 of 12 , Nov 3, 2003
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      Binsu-dono,
      Without seeing the damaged saya, I am hesitant to offer much in
      the way of anything but general advice on how to repair the nicks.

      I have made a few saya, but cannot consider myself a saya-shi
      by any means, so please understand.

      The main question would be if they are nicks in a saya that is
      truely lacquered with real urushi, or some other reproduction.

      If it is a reproduction, you will have an easier time. The area
      closely around the nicks should be sanded carefully in a light,
      circular motion, being careful to avoid making more scratches
      than you need to. Use a fine grade of sandpaper.

      If the nick is deep, a suitable wood putty can be used to fill the
      area, always keeping in mind it is better to use small
      applications and let them dry.

      When filled, sand lightly, with a fine grade of sand paper, then
      with steel wool - the kind that does not have jewelers rouge in it
      (that pink or blue paste stuff).

      You will have to determine the type of paint or lacquer that is best
      suited to your needs. This may take several tries, and some
      minor reworking.
      Regular hobby model paint is highly useful, in gloss and semi-
      gloss, applied with a fine brush. Try to make sure that the dried
      color will closely match the existing lacquer on the saya.

      If it is a larger repair, it might be worth while to think about good
      old rustoleum gloss or semi-gloss in a spray can, and re-paint
      the entire exterior of the saya.

      Let all dry several hours, and polish with a regular piece of white
      letter paper, again in a circular motion. Avoid papers that have a
      clay finish, like those used in coppiers or printers...The paper will
      do a fine job polishing, once the grain of the paper is smoothed
      down.

      Do this two or three times till the finishes start matching up.

      When you are done, it might be suitable to give the entire saya a
      light coat or two of a comercial polyeurathane (if not real urushi,
      that is...) Your call...

      If your saya is real urushi, then you might have a tougher time.
      Real urushi is not only difficult to find outside of Japan, but
      poisonous, and difficult to use. It is also beyond my ability to
      comment on further as far as your repairs go, not having seen
      the damage.

      I hope this helps some. Good luck to you tomodachi...

      Date Saburou Yukiie
      Yama Kaminari Ryu
      Shi wa hei to de aru - all are equal in the grave...
      http://www.kabutographics.com (under reconstruction)
      kabuto@...


      >
      > I would like to repair several small nicks in the black lacquer
      finish
      > on my saya. Would you be kind enough to explain the proper
      way to make
      > that repair, and where to get the correct type of lacquer.
      >
      > Arigatougozaimasu,
      > Binsu Jiro
      >
    • DP Gregersen
      On the subject, Real urushi can be mail ordered. Altho not cheap and it s toxic as has been noted: http://www.namikawa-ltd.co.jp
      Message 2 of 12 , Nov 3, 2003
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        On the subject,

        Real urushi can be mail ordered. Altho not cheap and it's toxic as
        has been noted:

        http://www.namikawa-ltd.co.jp

        http://www.japanese-swords.com/

        http:://www.aquastoneinc.com/

        Some people use cashew (Japanese urushi-like synthetic).
        Some people like the result using automobile paint.

        Pretty good step by step of making a saya, if contemplating such a
        project,

        http://www.sayashi.com

        or read the book "Craft of the Japanese Sword"
      • Solveig
        Noble Cousins! Greetings from Solveig! I can tell you where to buy lacquer in the Tokyo area. (It s a very large craft store complex in Kamata.) They may even
        Message 3 of 12 , Nov 3, 2003
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          Noble Cousins!

          Greetings from Solveig! I can tell you where to buy lacquer in the Tokyo
          area. (It's a very large craft store complex in Kamata.) They may even do
          mail order. I don't know whether U.S. customs will be particularly happy
          about letting it in. As for appearance. I you are familiar with real
          lacquer, then the difference can be quite apparent.
          --

          Your Humble Servant
          Solveig Throndardottir
          Amateur Scholar

          +----------------------------------------------------------------------+
          | Barbara Nostrand, Ph.D. | Solveig Throndardottir, CoM, CoS |
          | deMoivre Institute | Carolingia Statis Mentis Est |
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        • Bubba
          ... The few times I ve messed with the real thing (ok, once ;) I m apparently not affected by it much. No more than working with carbon fiber. There are a
          Message 4 of 12 , Nov 3, 2003
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            Solveig wrote:
            >
            > Greetings from Solveig! I can tell you where to buy lacquer in the
            > Tokyo area. (It's a very large craft store complex in Kamata.) They
            > may even do mail order. I don't know whether U.S. customs will be
            > particularly happy about letting it in. As for appearance. I you are
            > familiar with real lacquer, then the difference can be quite apparent.

            The few times I've messed with the real thing (ok, once ;) I'm apparently
            not affected by it much. No more than working with carbon fiber. There are a
            whole lot more dangerous things in my garage than lacquer. Methlyene
            chloride comes to mind ;)

            That said, I prefer using epoxy based paint instead of lacquer since it's
            very humid in this part of Ansteorra and epoxy is waterproof. Also easier to
            match it if you ever have to fix it (not likely).
            --
            Kagemasa
            mysticz28@...
            He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
          • DP Gregersen
            I m not a botonist, but the urushi tree is a distant relation of poison oak, and the sickness produces similar symptoms. Just as some people are affected more
            Message 5 of 12 , Nov 3, 2003
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              I'm not a botonist, but the urushi tree is a distant relation of
              poison oak, and the sickness produces similar symptoms.

              Just as some people are affected more by poison oak than others, it
              would seem to be the same with urushi. Artisans who work with the
              stuff regularly do develop a tolerance. I saw a video once of
              someone smearing it on with fingers with no ill effects.

              Do be careful, but as long as you don't get it on yourself, you
              should probably be ok. As far as importing it, it seems to be a
              gray area. Paint is paint, most likely as far as customs is
              concerned.



              > The few times I've messed with the real thing (ok, once ;) I'm
              apparently
              > not affected by it much. No more than working with carbon fiber.
              There are a
              > whole lot more dangerous things in my garage than lacquer. Methlyene
              > chloride comes to mind ;)
              >
            • Bubba
              ... From what I understand the two plants have the same poison. If that s the case it won t do anything to me at all. I can roll naked in poison ivy and
              Message 6 of 12 , Nov 7, 2003
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                DP Gregersen wrote:
                > I'm not a botonist, but the urushi tree is a distant relation of
                > poison oak, and the sickness produces similar symptoms.

                From what I understand the two plants have the same poison. If that's the
                case it won't do anything to me at all. I can roll naked in poison ivy and
                nothing happens... well, the poison ivy and anyone watching might get upset
                ;)

                > Do be careful, but as long as you don't get it on yourself, you
                > should probably be ok. As far as importing it, it seems to be a
                > gray area. Paint is paint, most likely as far as customs is
                > concerned.

                There are places to get it domestically, but I've been doing a bit of
                reading and have found that there are better wearing things out there. Epoxy
                and automotive paint being very high on the list. Not period, but good for
                things that will actually be worn regularly.
                --
                Kagemasa
                mysticz28@...
                He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
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