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9026Re: [SCA-JML] Uwagi fabrics

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  • Don Luby
    Jan 28, 2003
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      On Tue, 28 Jan 2003, daviem01 <ellen.m.davis@...> wrote:

      > Hey all,
      >
      > I'm gearing up to make a Heian itsutsuginu sometime before Pennsic,
      > and I've got 20 yards of silk organza (thank heaven for discount
      > fabric stores!)

      Another source for silk organza is http://www.silkconnection.com/;
      I've gotten a variety of silks from them, including their organza, and
      have nothing but praise for them. Personally, I'm quite a fan of
      their fuji broadcloth :)

      > but I still need to find an appropriate brocade for an uwagi.
      >
      > Technically an uwagi is supposed to be decorated with white roundels
      > (see
      > http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/EKCourt/heianwomen.html
      > for Fujiwara no Aoi-hime's examples) but it's nearly impossible to
      > find something that fits that requirement.

      As we found out the hard way ...

      > Stealing a friend's embroidery machine and doing it myself is one
      > option...but I've also found two brocades that I think might
      > come "close enough" for my purposes:
      >
      > A willow-green "Chinese blossom" pattern:
      > http://www.equilter.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=28944
      >
      > Golden medallions on pale pink silk:
      > http://www.equilter.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=2171
      >
      > (you may have to cut/paste links to get them to work right)
      >
      > The second one is pretty close to the size and spacing of roundels on
      > an uwagi or karaginu, but the first one also just "looks right" to
      > me...
      >

      You might also want to look at something like
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=943&item=739915534
      This is a moderately common brocade pattern, and I've seen it in a
      number of colors (jewel-tone blue and red being the most common, but
      I've also seen light blue, purple, white, and I think brown); he used
      to have it on his website, (www.silkxpress.com), but it's not there
      now. I'm pretty sure that's the same design as
      http://www.fabrics.biz/images/medallion/brocade228.jpg
      Don't forget that this stuff is going to be 30" wide - I bought some
      similar brocade in Philly, and failed to notice that fact :-p
      I also found some white-on-white jacquard with large enough roundels,
      but I'm a littel afraid of trying to resist all the roundels, to keep
      them white, while dyeing the rest of the fabric a different color.
      BTW, I've bought quite a bit of fabric from this eBay seller, and
      he's *very* reputable and prompt, and has a varying stock, some of
      which is *very* interesting. He's worth checking back on occasionally.

      > I would really appreciate any input anyone has, especially those who
      > have done Heian. If you know of another fabric that also works, even
      > better!
      >
      > Anyone? Anyone? Byuura-san? :)

      Well, we made Heian for my knighting at Pennsic; some photos are
      available on the Yama Kaminari web site

      http://www.nb.net/~kmeg/kaminari/Penn31/Penn31B.html
      and
      http://users.telerama.com/~djl/knighting_portrait.JPG

      My noshi was made out of a bolt of kimono silk (you can't tell, but
      it's actually a kaminari-pattern jacquard w/ tiny shibori flowers on
      it), and the akome is from a white silk jacquard I dyed myself to get
      the right shade. Sadly, the starch didn't hold up in the Pennsic
      heat and humidity, even though it was only on site for a day (an
      advantages of living close, and a housemate / retainer who's
      day-tripping) But I'm a guy, and that's not relevant to your
      question at hand.
      Cecily didn't wear the uwagi, mostly because it was so amazingly hot
      and she was wearing enoguh layers as it was, but hers is made from the
      same pattern as the one in the ebay link above, in red - don't worry,
      she got permission of the queen to wear it as a courtier beforehand :)

      >
      > Many thanks,
      > Aine


      Sir Koredono

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Don Luby Magariki Katsuichi no Koredono, KSCA
      djl@... Yama-kaminari-ryu
      Pittsburgh, PA Debatable Lands, AEthelmearc
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