7855Re: [SCA-JML] jingasa
- May 8, 2002michael A wrote:
>if you want to be *really* authentic, use rawhide or paper (!) and lacquer
> what im wondering if people can help me with is...
> 1. for the normal wear ones... does anyone know what
> thickness the metal should be in order to be
> historically accurate.im sure this isnt an exact
> standard but a rough idea would help. also it seems
> the angle of the cone varies to a degree
it till it's almost a quarter inch thick. <G>
Metal armour tended to be between 22 and 18 gg, depending on the part of the
armour, and the helm was no different. There is, of course, about an eighth
of an inch or more of lacquer built up on this.
> but does anyThere is no rule. What's a kabuto look like? There are hundreds of types.
> one have a rough idea of the degrees of pie shape
> removed from the circle, or the approximate pitch of
> the finished cone. my best guess is between
> 45degrees and67.5 degrees of the circle removed and im
> leaning toward the latter figure. any suggestions??
There are jingasa made of a solid sheet raised out, jingasa made of
triangular plates (think kabuto bowl), there are jingasa made of rolled
cones, what have you. There's no set depth, no set slope, no set width.
>Agreed. You'd have to have a metal skirt on it, of course. I've seen
> 2. for combat.... has anyone fought heavy with one?
> and if so what guage steel did you use? i know its a
> little strange but it will complement the tatami do im
> working on well.
particularly steep jingasa that would greatly eliminate the whiplash effect,
but to be workable there was a cut out -- or rather, cut-out and a curl-up
-- of the front center so the person wearing it could see, almost making it
look like the thing had a pompadour visor in front.
> i think i can disgusie the back ofYou would definitely either have to roll the edge or weld a ring in place.
> the helm made to sca standards fairly well with
> something to simulate any number of things dangled of
> the back,(tatami do style plates , or cloth,etc) but
> im curious how the edges of the main cone will take
> the abuse. i was thinking that if necessary i could
> roll the edge. any one have input/ suggestions/
> experiences/ recomended thicknesses with and without
> rolling. im figuring 16 will definately need a roll
> while 14 might take the abuse.
Talk to the people on the armour archive forum
(http://www.armourarchive.org). There's a discussion going on now about
kettle helms, and this is a very related subject.
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