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7008Re: [SCA-JML] Hitoe help

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  • Anthony J. Bryant
    Jan 10, 2002
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      Ii Saburou wrote:

      > I'm trying to figure out just what pattern a 'hitoe' should be made on.
      > I'm seeing two very different garments in "Jidai Ishou no Nuikata" (JIN)
      > and was wondering if people could help me puzzle them out.

      Well, think of the word "hitoe" as comparable to the English "shirt"or "gown." Lots of
      different garments have that same name, so context is really needed. There is only one
      man's hitoe pattern when you're talking about sokutai and noshi.

      > The first 'hitoe' appears to go with the sokutai. It is only 85cm in
      > length, and the sides are not sewn together. (Page 73 in JIN)

      That's the one you need.

      > The other is listed with the Jyuu-ni-hitoe, and there is very little by
      > way of a description. However, it is 202cm in length, and it appears as
      > though the sides are supposed to be sewn together for most of the way (the
      > numbers seem to indicate 28 cm from soulder down, where the sleeve is
      > connected, then 20 cm that I assume would be open, followed by an unmarked
      > length to the bottom that I assume is closed, else why specifically mark
      > the armpit--unless that is sewn together and I have the two mixed up).
      > (See page 103, JIN)

      Unless you're planning to develop a court lady persona, you don't need *this* hitoe.

      > There are a couple of other hitoe. One on page 171 there is one that
      > appears to be a smaller version of one that wasn't actually used, but the
      > general pattern would be the same, I think. This one shows the sides sewn
      > up and the back open, which is another differens (page 171, JIN)

      I can't put my hands on the book right now, so I'll have to let this one go for now.

      > Then there is the Fujiwara Motohira's plain white hitoe. It gives no
      > indication of an opening--the sleeves seems to be completely sewn to the
      > garment without an opening at the armpits. Moreover it appears to be sewn
      > all the way down the sides. The front panels are awkward on this one
      > (IMHO)--it almost seems like they were sewn on backwards from the normal
      > garment. I'm not sure if this is a common garment or an exception. (Page
      > 178 JIN)

      If you see the word "hitoe" on a garment that's cut like a kimono, it means
      "underwear" -- unlined garments (which is what hitoe means: hito, one, and e, layer)
      of that type, whether for men or women, were typically used for wear under other

      > Then there is 'Dai yon onzo' hitoe which appears to be the hitoe for a
      > 5-layered imperial combination. It also appears to have the sleeves
      > completely sewn on, and at least appears to be connected all the way down.
      > (Page 208, JIN)

      Wimmin's stuff again? <G>

      > The latter patterns appear to be more complex versions of the garment, but
      > I'm not sure if they are typical of garments in the Heian Jidai, which is
      > why I am focussing on the first two.
      > Reading the Japanese classic, "Tale of Genji" it seems that giving someone
      > a 'layer' of clothing was rather common. Furthermore, men gave to women
      > and vice versa, and I seem to recall that Genji was wearing one of the
      > garments he had taken from one of his many interests (Locust shell? I'll
      > have to find it again).
      > If this happened--men and women exchaning clothing--it would seem that the
      > garments should not be gender specific. Since the only two garments that
      > I have so far found to be non gender specific appear to be the hitoe and
      > kosode, with the latter appearing to be more in use in the later periods,
      > the hitoe would seem to be the garment being discussed.

      Under robes are under robes; the cut is generally close enough. <G> The formal hitoe
      worn with sokutai and noshi is, however, a very specific garment, and could well be
      called "hitoe no akome" as that's more what it looks like than anything else.

      > Otherwise, what garments are they giving after these intimate moments?
      > Would people keep closets of garments in case you had a romantic encounter
      > and needed to give the person a parting gift?*

      It would be underrobes, the closest thing to unisex they had. That is, kimono-like

      Usually, however, you give someone a *real* garment; a ho, a noshi, a karaginu --
      something like that.

      > Furthermore, if this is the garment being exchanged (the hitoe) what
      > guidelines should I follow for the pattern? I guess I need to know what
      > makes it a hitoe--not the length, not the fabric, not the collar, not the
      > sides--just the fact that it was a single layer worn next to the skin?

      Bingo. <G>

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