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28630RE: RE: RE: Informal Heian ensembles (for women)

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  • aoyama02
    Sep 26, 2013

       I'm curious about the "two-indigo" color on these three-layer combos.  I've seen some dupioni on fabric.com that has yellow and green threads which might work for Omanieshi, but I'm puzzled by the two-indigo--is it warp of one shade and weft of a lighter or darker shade?  Thoughts anyone?



      ---In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, <sca-jml@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      Thank you!  This was very helpful.

      ---In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, <sca-jml@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

      Just poking in with some links...  Perhaps they'll be a bit useful?

      There are some (rare) stated color combinations for 3-layered robes, at least: <a href="http://immortalgeisha.com/wiki/index.php?title=Kasane_no_Irome#5th_Day_of_the_5th_Month_Until_Fall:_Color_Combinations_for_Hitoe_.2B_Uwagi_.2B_Kouchigi">@wiki link</a>.  They're buried deep within a Japanese reference book on kasane no irome- but not all of them are listed online...

      If you browse sites featuring galleries of The Costume Museum's Tale og Genji exhibits, you can sometimes find depictions of informal robes: http://eiko1951.at.webry.info/200903/article_5.html      Since the Kyoto Costume Museum is kind of meticulous about research, I think anything they'd come up with is pretty much legit...  There are plenty of Genji scenes & exhibits by them not featured on their webpage, but you can find them through blogs, flickr, etc.  With nothing else to go on, Id just pick a sans-forbidden-colors ensemble from one of those and replicate it...

      //Back to lurking.



      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, <wodeford@...> wrote:

      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "aoyama02" <kornishpyxee@...> wrote:
      > I've got a couple questions about the two-layer informal Heian ensembles, such as Saionji-sama's Twelfth Night ensemble. 1) Is there a suggested color code, like there is for the full five-to-twelve layered ensembles? Does one work with a particular established ensemble and somehow reduced from 5 (or 12) layers down to two?

      There probably is, but the only ones that appear to have been recorded were for the seventh month (high summer). The one I did was based on something in the Kyoto Costume Museum and the color scheme does make some sense if you think about late winter imagery, i.e., new shoots (pale green) peeping from beneath dead leaves (gold).

      You may just have to take a best guess and extrapolate, because the known kasane are known because someone bothered to write them down as a cheat sheet for his Empress. I started with an informal ensemble informal and worked up to a full kasane over the course of a few years because that was how my budget dictated I go.

      > 2) What events would be appropriate to wear such an ensemble to? Are there events where it would be "too" informal?

      Yes, but how would the namban around you know the difference? (Wink.) Technically it's far too informal for Twelfth Night or the investiture of princes, but I've worn it for those occasions. (For that matter, I've waltzed in it at a Mikado themed "Topsy Turvy" dance event!)

      Saionji no Hana, West Kingdom
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