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28441Re: Layers of Momoyama period men's garments

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  • Ishiyama Gen'tarou Yori'ie
    Jan 6, 2013
      wildcrimsonsky wrote:
      > In most examples the Hakama and Kataginu match,

      This is what makes it a "kataginu kamishimo", when the kataginu and
      hakama are made from the same fabric.

      I have seen it written that to have the kataginu different from the
      hakama is often a sign of servitude. (I don't have a good reference
      for this, however.) That is, the kataginu would be of your master's
      livery. I have made special kataginu with the badges of my local
      kingdom and barony that I wear when I am acting in some official
      capacity like retaining, guarding, or processing.

      > Am I seeing things? What is the middle layer garment? Is it a Hitatare?

      In most cases, this is another kosode layer. The base later, often
      referred to as a "juban", is always white as you note. The juban and
      kosode have the same shape, as far as I know. I try to cut my colored
      or patterned kosode a little larger so they fit over the juban
      without binding.

      --
      THL Ishiyama Gen'tarou Yori'ie
      (mka: Elliott C. Evans)
      ishiyama@...
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