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26435Re: [SCA-JML] Building a Kamakura Persona

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  • Andrew T Trembley
    Sep 27, 2009
      Argent Fox wrote:
      > My research at that time, and I'm sorry to say I have lost almost all of the links I had found back then, lead me to believe that a female Buke wore a white kiosode and red hakima, with a single colored coat. (Unless it was cold then layers could be added.) however when browsing the Kyoto Museum sight more recently I have been unable to find mention of such simple garb. Also it has come to my attention that the female Hakima is quite different then the male Hakima, which I prefer.

      Kuge (court) women wore the white kosode and red hakama.

      I believe these examples match what you're talking about. They're in the
      Heian section. Japanese styles evolved slowly, and fashion-wise the
      Kamakura period is something of an extended transitional period where
      Heian clothing simplified and became more stylized.


      The red nagabakama are similar to mens hakama, but differ in a few
      significant ways:
      1. They're designed to be tied under the bust, rather than at the waist
      or hips. Yep, it's a Japanese empire waist.
      2. I don't remember the details, but I believe the himo (ties) are
      attached differently. Womens-wear experts can probably give you more
      information on this.
      3. They're long. Really long. Hems trailing a few feet behind you long.

      They're worn in the examples with a hitoe (unlined robe) and an uchiki
      (outer robe). I've seen period artwork, though, showing women just
      wearing the red hakama and kosode; IIRC these were pictures of very
      casual situations.

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