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24884Re: Heian Dyeing

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  • wodeford
    Dec 5, 2008
      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "tatsumechan" <kanamori.tatsume@...>
      > Sorry for the intrusion again but reading Kosode has left me feeling a
      > bit confused. I was under the impression that the Heian women wore a
      > white kosode underneath all their layers though the book is saying
      > that the hitoe was next to the skin and does not mention the kosode.
      > Did the kosode come later and I was just misinformed?

      "Hitoe" means an unlined garment. The index in Dalby's "Kimono:
      Fashioning Culture" actually has two listings of this term, one for
      any unlined kimono, one for the "chemise" layer worn in the Heian
      period. (There's even male hitoe from the Heian period, but it is not
      discussed in Dalby.) Pages 228 - 229 of my edition of Dalby (it's in
      Chapter 7) discuss the layers worn: kosode, with
      hakama/haribakama/nagabakama worn over it. Over that, the hitoe and
      then multiple uchigi over the hitoe.

      "Hitoe, chemise. First of the layered set of gowns, cut slightly
      larger than the ones that came on top. The hitoe protruded prominently
      at the sleeve openings and hem. The color of the chemise was crucial
      to the ensemble's effect...."

      This video shows a woman being dressed in a Heian ensemble.
      Note that she starts out in a white kosode and scarlet nagabakama. The
      first layer the dressers put on over that (light green) is her hitoe.
      When they've got everything else on, you can still see the green hitoe
      layer peeping out from under all the sleeves layered on top because
      it's cut slightly wider than they are.

      Hope this helps.

      Saionji no Hanae
      West Kingdom
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